Accurized P1 armor WIP update
- Thread starter carlart
- Start date
Dwayne,
I do have black pigment which I can add to the mixture, but it makes one hell of a mess, the idea I'm exploring now is using flexible auto bumper primer and paint which should do the trick. I'm figuring on black flex primer first, followed by silver, then weathered. I'll chime back in with the results.
carlart
inkmonster
New Member
hi cary good to see you chime in bro. hey maybe you have some tips to paint the urethane rubber to im looking to get a set of this armor but i need to find a paint that i can use on this and match the same colors to latex.
inkmonster
New Member
hi cary, actually its not self skinning foam there made of a firm urethane rubber. but the rest of my armor on my suit is latex so i need to find something that i could maybe mix the same color paint with 2 different agents like prosaide for the latex and maybe rubber cement for the urethane rubber. carl said to not go that route though because of the expense and the toxicidity of the rubber based paints.
cyberpred
Sr Member
Dwayne,
Go hear and talk to these folks. They will be able to help you.
[URL="http://www.artstuf.com/"]http://www.artstuf.com/[/URL]
I use them and many special F/X Companies have gotten their stuff here including Lucas.
Cary
Go hear and talk to these folks. They will be able to help you.
[URL="http://www.artstuf.com/"]http://www.artstuf.com/[/URL]
I use them and many special F/X Companies have gotten their stuff here including Lucas.
Cary
ptgreek
Active Member
Douglas and Sturgis is about five minutes from my house...they are great...It is a whole store devoted to sculpting and casting
inkmonster
New Member
i found a product for carl if hes interested in trying it. its from smooth on called pre-cote22. its a flexible in mold coating that allows urethane rubber castings to be painted with any acrylic paint without cracking.
No dice. Pre Cote 22 is no longer carried by Smooth On, which is why I've never seen it on their site--where I buy most of my materials.
carlart
inkmonster
New Member
yup no dice, ill paint it with rubber cement if i have to it cant be that expensive to buy a small amount of rubber cement to apply to it then use a acrylic paint. its not that much armor that i would be painting with it. i'll wear a respirator if i have to.
inkmonster
New Member
carl just seen the video that stuff sounds hard bro. how heavy is it? scott i was thinking that the same method for latex should work. i guess the problem is alot of paints wont adhear to rubber very well.
Yeah, it does look heavy, but it ain't. It's very lightweight and will last longer than latex. I will try Scott's idea on the acrylic paint and post the results. I'm travelling in uncharted waters with the urethane rubber. If anybody's had experience with this stuff, as well as painting it, please chime in.
carlart
carlart
inkmonster
New Member
well carl i dont have any experience with it myself but have talked to atleast 3 people that have have had plenty of experience with it. and they have all said the same thing if you want it to last it needs to be painted with a paint mixed with rubber cement, or a rubber based ink. it can be painted with pretty much anything but to stand the test of time a rubber product needs to be painted with a rubber based paint for it to stick properly. and if it cost more to do it that way im shure its gonna be worth it for anyone that wants it to spend a couple more bucks to paint it right.
drgnfyre4
New Member
The only times I have worked with Eurathane rubber is on Batsuit parts. But those were pretinted black and needed no after paint once it was out of the mold. We did however do a Robin Redbird chest armor with a real deal screen used piece and we added EM powders to the mold to prepaint it like they did for the film and it bonded beautifully with parts to make a deep dark metallic blue and blood maroon metal red. I suspect this may be the way to go with Pred armor as you can mix EM powders to get the greenish grey metal look for the base and also actually brush in some rust brown for weathering effects right into the mold, thereby leaving only the dirtiest weathering to be applied after demolding your piece. This will also make sure that your most important color which is the base color is permenantly bonded into the actual piece and will NOT rub off with wear and tear as it is actually in the surface layer of the casting.
I know all of the Batsuit makers that I have worked with have sworn off latex forever and are all doing Eurathane rubber because its so much more durable than latex and will withstand the rigors of repeated costume wear. I plan on making my next body pred suit entirely with Eurathane rubber using the EM powder prepaint method, it also moves and flexes better in the joint areas than latex does.
I know all of the Batsuit makers that I have worked with have sworn off latex forever and are all doing Eurathane rubber because its so much more durable than latex and will withstand the rigors of repeated costume wear. I plan on making my next body pred suit entirely with Eurathane rubber using the EM powder prepaint method, it also moves and flexes better in the joint areas than latex does.
inkmonster
New Member
thats fine if you dont have latex armor on the rest of the suit you have to match the paint to. i aslo got a totaly differnt opinion from a few fx artist in the past few days than you did mike. they all said urethane rubber is the biggest pain in the butt as far as painting and your better off with self skinning foam, latex or if your gonna use rubber use silicone rubber. i hope carl will do the sculpting and casting and leave the painting to the guys that want a set. im just gonna go with what i was recomended putting down a basecoat of rubber cement and painting with acrylic paint.and the same colors can be mixed with prosaide to paint onto the latex. that way theres no hassles trying to match the colors up.
Similar threads
