ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters - pics and specs

GINO

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Same stuff. Refer to the top pic as it is the best representation of how in looks in person.
 

Darth Lars

Master Member
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Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Gino: Did you use my sketch? What did you change?
 

GINO

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Actually some pretty amazing and definitive reference presented itself. Had it not, I definitely would have started with yours.
 

GINO

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

I've gotten some requests from people for tips on finishing their t-track.
I can only help with sabers (as I don't have a sterling, mg-34, or rotj fett rifle). So anyone who finishes theirs off feel free to post any helpful tips here. Oh yeah, and some nice showoff pics as well.


ANH Luke and ANH Vader:
Grip length: 3 9/16"
Angled ends: On top of center ridge, make a pencil mark 1/8" from end to designate where the angle should stop
Tips: I used a 1" metal file and it ground down like butter.

ESB Luke:
Grip length: 3 9/16"
Notched end: (starting from bottom end) ridge length before notch 7/16", length of notch 5/16"
Tips: Make your marks in pencil on top and down sides of ridge. Use a dremel tool to hog out most of the area. Get as close to your lines as possible without going too far. Then use a brand new x-acto blade to gently square up your corners and flat area (where the screw/rivet goes). I would not use a file for these notches as it is practically impossible not to make unwanted scratches on either side of the center ridge.

ESB and ROTJ Vader:
Grip length: 4.25"
No angles or notches.
Only the ROTJ Vader uses little screws at each end of grip.

I attached my t-track using hot melt glue. The opaque yellow kind, not the standard clear. If you don't want to use hot glue, you could use 5 min epoxy instead. I don't recommend using anything else, especially not any kind of adhesive tape.
Keep in mind that regardless of whether or not you used hot glue or epoxy, that you will use WAY less than you think. Just a teeny tiny bit in that channel goes a long way. If you use hot glue, you have to be super fast when applying it because if you are too slow, the glue will start to cool and won't allow you to squish the grip flush against the saber body.
After doing mine, I would recommend using 5 min epoxy as it is easier to control.

As for the screws in the ESB Luke and the ROTJ Vader, I went balls out and decided to actually screw into the metal saber body. That's how they did it for the films right? I've had my Luke ESB graflex since 1993 and I have to say that it was extremely gratifying to finally drill into it.
For those who aren't ready to take that step yet, I would suggest cutting off the tops of your screws so that they are only cosmetic. You can always take the plunge later.

For those ready to go all-in, here's what I did. I bought the appropriate screws for each saber as well as corresponding taps and drill bits made especially for the taps.
I pre-drilled the holes in the grips so that the screws would easily slide through. Then I marked the hole placements on the saber body. Use a center punch to make accurately placed dings in the saber body where your marks are. Then I recommend making pilot holes with the smallest drill bit you have. It is easier to control and center that way.
After, use the drill bit designated for the tap.
Tap your holes using a little wd-40 and some patience.
Then proceed to epoxying your grips in place making sure all the holes are lined up. Make sure you don't confuse which grip goes where. I used tiny pieces of tape to mark them.
Afterward, simply screw in your screws. Don't overtighten, or you might pop the hot glue or epoxy on the opposite end.


If I missed anything, let me know.
 
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Yorpheus

Well-Known Member
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Thanks for posting the instructions, Gino! :thumbsup

In regards to the angles on the Luke ANH do you have any close-up pics of the original or even your own saber we could use as reference? I'd like to get this one as screen accurate as possible.
I
Also, what type/size screws are used on the grips of the ROTJ Vader?
 

GINO

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

There's a good pic of the ANH saber referred to as the 'toe' pic where you can see the grips well. Also, the Chronicles has several of the ANH Luke and ANH Vader.

If you make your mark on the top center ridge 1/8" from the end and then draw your diagonal line down to the bottom end edge from that, you will be fine.
 

Yorpheus

Well-Known Member
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Thanks, Gino. I've got the Chronicles book.

Could someone PLEASE post the aforementioned 'toe' pic?
 

dcarty

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

I don't know if this pic is considered "communal property" these days so I'll remove it if necessary:



Cheers, and thanks as always wackychimp

Dave
 

dcarty

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Here are some pics of the new track on my ANH Graflex (got some minor epoxy clean-up still):




I'll try and mock some up on my Sterling kit soon.

Cheers,

Dave
 

GINO

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Looking good! :thumbsup
Can't wait to see it on a sterling or MG-34 as well.

Anyone else finish up any of their pieces?
 

TV8

Well-Known Member
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Looks amazing, thanks for the heads up.
 

dcarty

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Got some work done roughing the T-Track onto one of my Sterling kits. Now all I've got to do is break out the electrical welder and finish the rest of the beasts:




Cheers,

Dave
 

GINO

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Very nice Dave.

Anyone else finish any of their pieces yet?
 

ssdesigner

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Lookin' great guys, keep the pics coming!

I have at least 4-5 pictures showing slightly different layouts for the 7 grip ANH Luke/Vader and the 6 grip ESB Luke grip placements, does anyone here have a diagram that is considered the "end-all, be-all" definitive grip layout??

If so I'd love to see it, and if it includes the D-rings in the diagram then I'll be set. :):thumbsup

-Ss
 

GINO

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Hey Scott,
I second that request. If anyone can do a nice 'at a glance' chart that would be great.
 

GINO

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Here's a pic of the t-track on Art Andrews' real MG-34.

I was informed that if Art was a better snowboarder, there would be more photos than just this one close up. :lol


 
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sycor

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Re: ACCURATE T-TRACK on sabers and blasters -NEW PICS see post#29

Got some work done roughing the T-Track onto one of my Sterling kits. Now all I've got to do is break out the electrical welder and finish the rest of the beasts:

Cheers,

Dave
Very nice. I have a sterling I need grips for. What did you use to bend the track? Just a hair dryer to soften it up a little?
 
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