66 Miata Batmobile Build

Thanks Don,
I will need to get some grille material at some point down the road. The 18 wheeler stack stuff.
 
More chipboard.

When gluing panels that make a critical edge, I glue one half and let the glue dry before I glue the other half. That way I get the seam pretty close to where I want it:
View attachment 68314

Also, chipboard is more flexible in one direction and a lot stiffer in the other direction. I've found that when faceting the small curved areas, I have to use the more flexible direction or else the chipboard will make ugly creases on its own where I don't want it to. However, on the large broad planes, I've found that the piece needs to bend in the stiffer direction to get the straightest shape.
The difference in stiffness between one direction and the other isn't that much, but it can make the difference between a piece working or not.

I actually tore down the nose area because I used the flexible bend direction where I should have used the stiff, and it ended up wobbly. (It was the first section I did.) I added chipboard strips to further help even out the shapes and also redesigned the facets to make them more evenly spaced:
View attachment 68315
 
Humidity!

More panels:
View attachment 68321

It's been really dry in Texas - then in the last few days we got rain and the humidity doubled from 36% to 76%.
I went out to the shed this morning and a whole bunch of panels got a warp in them over the weekend from the moisture:
View attachment 68322

I hit a couple warped panels with the heat gun to dry them out, and they straightened back up:

View attachment 68323

I guess I'll have to wait for the humidity to go down before gluing more panels.
 
Foampocalypse!

I replaced half the panels that got warped from humidity.
Then I sprayed a couple cans of great stuff expanding foam behind those panels to prevent further warpage - the pressure from the expanding foam caused those panels to warp and I was no better off.

It seems that I'm allergic/sensitized to the 'Isocyanates' in the spray foam - I get itchy/crawly skin for a day after I use the stuff.

I finished all the chipboard panels for the front half and today sprayed about eight cans of spray foam in the back of the skeleton (I used barrier cream/long sleeves/nitrile gloves / bunny suit/full face respirator/fan/working outdoors to minimize the reaction to the spray foam, but I still have a little bit of itchy neck right now). I gave it a few hours to set, then went out and found that the pressure from the spray foam had ballooned up the center nose section pretty bad, and wobbled up some other top sections. The side curved areas came out alright.

Here's the back:
View attachment 69834
Here's the front - you can see where it deformed:
View attachment 69835
Here's the whole thing:
View attachment 69836

Most of it came out okay but I'll have to tear down the chipboard off the worst ballooned or wobbly areas, sand the foam flat and glue new plates on those spots.

One step forward, two steps back.
One step forward, two steps back.
"At least you're dancing," said Nick Daring this afternoon, as he handed me a cold beer.
 
Batman.gif


This is going to be so awesome when it is done. Keep the faith, you can do it!
 
Foam Jungle Tamed

I tamed the wild foam jungle! - I hacked it back to the skeleton on the rear.

View attachment 72511

The foam ballooning on the front calmed down a bit on its own - I think the pressure of the cardboard pushed back against the foam as its core cured over the course of a few days. In any case the wobbled plates aren't as bad as before.

View attachment 72512

I laid into the chipboard with an electric sander to feather the edges between plates. It was very encouraging, but I need to get some 60 grit to shape faster.

Here I did some sanding on the wheel well - haven't touched the big plates yet.

View attachment 72513
 
Plan to finish the front half.

Thanks guys.

I was searching around and think I might use matte black vinyl vehicle wrap for the final finish:

Matte Black-Flat Black Vinyl Vehicle Wrap 60" x 20 Feet | eBay

It has a cool 89 Batmobile look.

I'm just trying to figure out and organize the steps between what I have now and the final product.
Any suggestions or comments about the plan would be welcome.

I think it might go something like this:
1. Feather sand the chipboard with 60 grit (already done)
2. Seal the chipboard with a thin glaze of polyester resin
3. Reinforce the back side with some more fiberglass tape/resin.
3. Primer Black the top
4. Lightweight Bondo filler on all the low spots - sand.
5. Primer, bondo, primer, bondo.
6. Matte Black vinyl vehicle wrap.
7. Weld a very basic metal frame to support the front corners and sides (with angle iron and a Harbor Freight flux core welder).
8. Make spacers and brackets to bolt to the hood.

At this point I would test fit, drive around a bit and then take off the front half and get to work on the back half.

Sound good?
 
One of my businesses is vinyl, all kinds, from little logos to full car/truck wraps. I can tell you some of the tricks of the trade that will help you put it on, but to be perfectly honest it's not easy, not long lasting and almost imposible to do solo.
Oh and I don't care what they say, I'm the guy replacing 1 year old wraps that look like crap after being in the weather, ie: heat, snow, rain.

Seriously, I would recomend you use a paint called "Stove Black", it's a deep flat black that lasts. We used it on the Resident Evil: Umbrella Corporation Security van and it turned out fantastic.

However, if your dead set on doing it with vinyl, let me know :)
 
but to be perfectly honest it's not easy, not long lasting and almost imposible to do solo

totally agree - i do this for my job too - it isnt for the innexperienced - having bubble free material helps but you can still get air pockets, and as he says a wrap is only really a temp thing - go for the paint option - if you wrap it youll regret it later down the line imo and wish you had had paint done
 
When i read your first post i thought something like: Oh well, not again a useless thread...
(Sorry for that!)
BUT WOW, you really managed to get this looking great! I´m speechless!
Can´t wait to see this project finished, i wish you all the best, mate!

applause.gif
 
Thanks for the heads up - I'll trust your experience in the trickiness of applying this stuff. I remember when I was an assembler at Toys R Us that the worst dreaded task was applying the vinyl decals on the 'Barbie Safari Power Wheel Jeep'.

My thinking with the vinyl was:

1. It could be done in small overlapping sections
2. Would fit the faceted shapes pretty well (there are essentially no complex curves on the body)
3. Would give an extra sealed layer of protection between the elements and the paper chipboard if the resin layer cracks.
4. Would also give a 'finished' finish without having to get the surface as perfect.
I was also looking at the 'black chrome' vinyl for a super-glossy effect.

But,
I think you're right about it not lasting since it will be living in the Texas sun (and I don't have a garage, nor a batcave.)
And also,
If I'm planning on using filler anyways than I should probably just put in the work and get it paint ready.
There are a lot of steps before the final finish so I've got time.
 
OK, can help here too, I've done autobody for more then 25 years (yes, have a business in this too :lol ). We've built everything from wings to body kits to entire race cars.

If I understand and have followed corectly, right now you have a "Chipboard" surface? I'm guessing 14 ply at 0.05 - 0.10 inch?

You have a few options you could choose from, all being strong, long lasting but some work involved. I'll list easy to hardest here for you:

1. "Filler Primer" (Dupli-color comes in a rattle can) will be paintable and sandable as well as filling in any small gaps, pin holes or such. You can also get it in un-mixed Quart to Gal. size at auto paint stores. Getting the larger amounts will then mean you'll need a compresor and a gun to shoot it with. So that's a bit of an investment. Of course you could check and see if there is a Rental place near you that has compresors, then you could just get a simple gravity feed gun for about $25-40.
Bad side: this won't stiffen the body, may flex and crack and you'll have to seal it inside and outside. You'll also need to lay the paint on rather thick.

2. "fiberglass resin" This'll be like what the guys who do those paper props do. A ~skim coat~, meaning very thin, cover the entire surface. This'll be tricky as you can't mix enough to to the entire piece in one shot, you'll have to mix as you go. It's kind of like painting, apply wet to wet. So as you do a section, the next batch extends, overlapping, on the one you just did. For the size piece you have there, I'd have 10-12 "cups" ready to mix up. Allow it to set up hard for a few hours, then sand the entire surface LIGHTLY with 400. Then apply another coat of resin.
Once the second coat is set hard, sand that, look for low-high spots and fill-sand as needed. You'll find pin holes and need to use some glazing puttybefore the final sand.


3. "Bondo" I don't recomend this, it'll take a long time to sand it to shape, be messy as heck (not to metion the dreaded ~bondo boogers~! :lol )...But it'll be the cheapest way to go. Bondo is a lot cheaper en-mass then resin. It's also not as forgiving as resin and can crack when flexed.

Hope this helps and if you need anything else let me know.

GREAT job so far, really well done.
 
All I can is BAT-Tastic cant wait to see this finished and on the road You really should do a Blog or something of this build I am sure the general public who are not on this forum would be amazed and appreciate to see it as well.
 
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