3D Printing Delamination

WatchMeSoar

New Member
Hi everybody, first post here on the RPF, looking for some advice. I'm starting to get into 3D printing, but I'm running into some issues. I'm printing ABS on a Replicator Dual, trying to print a model of Mal's Pistol from Firefly. I've repeatedly run into issues wherein the support structure for the barrel peels apart, leading to the "lower" side of the barrel being curved, which is clearly not desirable. The printer is fully enclosed, printing with filament at 220° and the base at 110°. Any advice on how to fix this?

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If the model is delaminating from the platform, try increasing the platform temperature 5-10 deg. Then, if you are not doing this already, lay down some Kapton or painters tape, and before you print hit the platform with some hairspray. If you are just adding some tape now, re-level the bed after to ensure the extruder nozzle is the proper distance from the surface you are printing on.

If the layers are splitting from themselves, I would suggest getting a program like autodesk meshmixer (free), slicing the model and printing it in smaller pieces or even changing the orientation of the part on the build platform . ABS likes to shrink quite a bit as it cools,the greater the volume of the print the more it will shrink. This will even help with delamination from your platform.

Lastly adding a raft is a good way to keep parts to stick to the platform, there should be a check box for it in the makerbot desktop. It can help with partial delamination and if you want to print lots of little pieces without them popping off the bed.
 
I am using a raft, as well as Kapton tape. The support is actually what is splitting, leading to the side of the model tilting up into the air.

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Rough, in that case I would suggest using meshmixer. Open the program and import the .STL file. On the ribbon on the left select "edit" then "plane cut". you can rotate the plane and switch which side to cut. Cut it and save/export the file (i.e. Mal Pistol P1) then just hit undo and switch the direction of the cut then save that (Mal Pistol P2). and bingo! You can try to print in a way that wont require supports, but will need a little adhesive. you can make as many cuts as you want.

Maybe try cutting the barrel off where it meets the body of the gun, and orient it such that it will print sticking straight up out of the bed. meshmixer will allow you to generate your own supports in the software. perhaps add a few to make it less wobbly when it gets higher up. Or just cut the barrel into several smaller sections an re-assemble them. Long skinny things will tend to curl on you along the XZ plane.

If you decide to dabble in PLA, i'm using a replicator 2x as well. Primarily I use ABS, but since it's cooling down in New York I tried out some PLA. I found that a platform heated to 60 C with the top off, the front door up and the window to the room the printers in open works well as long as a desk fan is blowing into the front. I did print out an oiler before that to help. It shrinks less compaired to ABS, but needs to be cooled or else you get a funky layer pattern. I find it to be brittle for my taste but for parts that are less function and more form oriented it hits the spot.
 
I've now cut the Pistol so it has a handle part, a mag well part, and a barrel part. The barrel will print sticking straight up. We'll see if that helps

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After a lot of sanding, wood filler, one coat of Bondo, and 3 coats of filler. The print warped despite my best efforts, and I didn't want to reprint it, so I compensated with a crap-ton of filler.

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I use a Makerbot replicator 2X at work. I've had the best luck with 220 for the extruder, 130 for the bed, and 30% infill. Sometimes, with prints that warp a lot, I'll turn off the raft, and drip some acetone on the corners of the print as it lays down the first layer (haven't tried this with kapton tape, only with painters tape).
 
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