3d Printing a Mark VI Iron Man
- Thread starter Samohtep
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Samohtep
Member
For the 3D printing work, I so far have not had to pay anything. When I originally sent the model over to that dept and explained what I was looking to do, I had asked for an estimate, and was told to pass the files along to the co-op working with them.
When I insisted that I really wanted to pay and skip any problems that might come up in future, the exact quote was, "from the accounting people, it's not worth it to try to charge."
I think that because the co-op is doing the work, and it's running during off hours, it's easier to chalk the prints up to training.
When I insisted that I really wanted to pay and skip any problems that might come up in future, the exact quote was, "from the accounting people, it's not worth it to try to charge."
I think that because the co-op is doing the work, and it's running during off hours, it's easier to chalk the prints up to training.
Samohtep
Member
Just talked to one of the guys doing the work printing the other pieces and it looks like I'm on hold for a bit, big project coming down to them. In the meantime, I'll work out the kinks in my process and cleanup the helmet, I have to pad it a bit for a correct seat, but I need the collar and shoulders to see how high it should sit
To have the faceplate stay up when open, you can use magnets. Place one inside the crown where you want it to sit, and a corresponding magnet in the faceplate that lines up with the other
Samohtep
Member
Cool, so I was on the right path! My thought had been to extend a "tooth" of some sort into the grooves in the top of the helmet, and place small Rare Earth magnets at the end of the groove and the corresponding spot on the tooth. Now to find something that will play the roll of the tooth.
Samohtep
Member
I've been experimenting with the magnets and the hinge/magnet system doesn't seem strong enough. I broke the side of the mask earlier today, so after repairing it I think I need to revisit the hinges. I found this system that someone else used for theirs. Any ideas of what this kind of slider is called, or where I might find something like it?
Since you can 3D print a system and obviously know how to do the 3D build, you could design a system like mine. Be much easier than the way I did it.
http://www.therpf.com/f9/iron-man-helmet-hinged-tracks-123338/
http://www.therpf.com/f9/iron-man-helmet-hinged-tracks-123338/
Samohtep
Member
Msleeper- will do, hope to plan it out tomorrow night and try a test fit on Tuesday
Finhead- I don't know if I posted pictures of it, but I had started off imitating your system. But it was a bit to rough and put a lot of stress on the mask. Since the helmet wasn't designed with it in mind, the hinges pushed too much outward and deformed, but that's just my hasty construction. I wish I had more direct access to the printer so I could try printing the hinges.
Finhead- I don't know if I posted pictures of it, but I had started off imitating your system. But it was a bit to rough and put a lot of stress on the mask. Since the helmet wasn't designed with it in mind, the hinges pushed too much outward and deformed, but that's just my hasty construction. I wish I had more direct access to the printer so I could try printing the hinges.
Samohtep
Member
Now that I'm all itchy from fiberglass dust, I thought I'd post some of this evening's work. I took out the posts that I had fiberglass'd down as hinges for the 1st set I tried, and then quickly sanded down the area to get rid of the sharp bits of fiberglass.
I then taped the mask on, and just sort of eyeballed the placement of the hinges and hot glued them in place(making sure that the right and left hinges were on the correct sides). I got lucky on the first try and got them in the right position so that the mask sits nicely on top of the helmet. I just realized I didn't take a picture with the mask up and open....
Anyway, there is a slight problem. I can't get my head through the opening with both hinges attached. If I unscrew one side, I can slide my head and my big ears in, then tediously keep all of the pieces together and screw it back in. Getting the tension right on the slider so it will not fall down when open is tough when I have to disassemble it everytime. I think I will work some magnets into the top to coerce the mask to stay up.
Oh yeah, and I have to unscrew both sides to take it off of my head. Looks like I'll need a handler whenever I go somewhere with this.
I then taped the mask on, and just sort of eyeballed the placement of the hinges and hot glued them in place(making sure that the right and left hinges were on the correct sides). I got lucky on the first try and got them in the right position so that the mask sits nicely on top of the helmet. I just realized I didn't take a picture with the mask up and open....
Anyway, there is a slight problem. I can't get my head through the opening with both hinges attached. If I unscrew one side, I can slide my head and my big ears in, then tediously keep all of the pieces together and screw it back in. Getting the tension right on the slider so it will not fall down when open is tough when I have to disassemble it everytime. I think I will work some magnets into the top to coerce the mask to stay up.
Oh yeah, and I have to unscrew both sides to take it off of my head. Looks like I'll need a handler whenever I go somewhere with this.
DragginBowtie
New Member
Using belt clips and webbing works great. You can buy them off ebay in bulk and get a roll of webbing to go with it. Just cut it up and you're good to go. Check out STEALTH's youtube tutorial of how he did it below.
TUTORIAL - "SUIT UP!" How to Connect Foam Armor Costume Parts - YouTube
Samohtep
Member
Thanks! That's how I was sort of planning to do it, it's good to have that sort of knowledge to back me up. I think that the weight of the printed pieces may become an issue as I wear it, so I think I might be better off if I create a harness for the upper torso. My thought is to have like backpack shoulder straps, or a 5point harness connected to the back piece, then have the front piece clip on like he showed. That way the weight will be better distributed.
DragginBowtie
New Member
That will work perfect also. Having the harness for the main torso pieces and then connecting the rest to those should work just fine. That's what I'm planning for mine as well.
Samohtep
Member
Cool, also I've seen talk about...let's call it "easy access for relief", building in a flap or hinge for the codpiece, but I don't think I've seen it in practice.
I'm sorry if my questions are often discussed, I usually just update this from my phone so I don't explore the rest of the forums, and I surprisingly didn't start off by lurking around.
I'm sorry if my questions are often discussed, I usually just update this from my phone so I don't explore the rest of the forums, and I surprisingly didn't start off by lurking around.
DragginBowtie
New Member
I think that's a great idea...I was trying to figure that out myself. I was throwing around the idea of making the Cod piece just an easy 2 piece part that could be removed but i think the "flap" idea might make a lil more sense and be quite a bit easier to utilize. good call.
Samohtep
Member
Did a bunch of work with the hinges yesterday. I found a way to reposition them which allows to to slip my head in and out below them. Also started padding to get the correct fit, it's a lot more comfortable with the padding in. I guess my next step is getting ahold of some EL tape and doing the eyes.
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