3D printed TOS Phaser II

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Shipbrook

Active Member
A few months back, I modeled and 3D printed a midgrade TOS Phaser I. Inspired by pics I've been seeing in asalaw's and robn1's phaser threads, I finally got around to modeling and printing a couple of P2 sections (one early season 1 black-and-white version, and one post-repaint version). Still a work in progress, but I'm pretty happy with how they're turning out.

Modeled in Blender, working from the pics in The Making of Star Trek, photos of Greg Jein's phaser, Blu-Ray screencaps from trekcore.com, and some of the measurements from the screen shots in asalaw's thread. The rendered model:

3D%20model.png


Because it's sized around my existing P1, the size and shape of which I had estimated from the rulers in the TMoST pics, its proportions may not be exactly correct, but I think it's pretty close (and given the obvious variations in the screen-used phasers, as long as it ends up looking better than the one in "Space Seed", I'll be content).

Printed parts (unsanded except where needed to make them fit together, and unpainted):

Printed%20Parts.jpg


I realized when I was test fitting the black-and-white and comparing it against screenshots from "The Man Trap" and "The Naked Time" that the rear fin block was supposed to be black, not the silver I'd printed it in, so I reprinted it in black after this pic was taken.

Test fit of the standard version (still unsanded and unpainted) with the P1 inserted:

Test%20Fit%20-%20Standard%20Phaser%20Two.jpg


Not too terribly shabby, though this was the third iteration of my design (the first attempt, I'd neglected to difference out a space for the P1's emitter hood, so the two halves wouldn't meet if the P1 was inserted; the second attempt fixed that problem, but then I decided to make the knobs movable instead of just glued in (looking ahead to when I add internal bits for a hero version).

And a test fit of the black-and-white:

est%20Fit%20-%20Black%20and%20White%20Phaser%20Two.jpg


When comparing against the screenshots, I noticed that the front of the P1 socket on Scotty's phaser in "The Naked Time" was really angular - it looked like a straight line between the front edge and the start of the little "shelf" on the side - whereas mine follows the curve of the P1 (and I think my "shelf" is a little too skinny). Not going to beat myself up over it, though.

And here's the two of them together:

Test%20Fit%20-%20Two%20Phaser%20Twos.jpg


I'd noticed in one of the screenshots from "Court Martial" that the front edge of the recess for the rear fins was actually slightly curved, so I reproduced that on mine. Think I need to extend the fin block forward on the black-and-white, though, so it meets flush with the edge of the recess.

But anyway, now begins the worst part of 3D printing props: the laborious process of smoothing them before I can paint and assemble. Then maybe I'll be motivated to finish tweaking the bugs out of my hero version of the P1, and add some functioning innards to the P2 model as well.
 

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robn1

Master Member
Very cool! There's a build up of some of your P1s here, they look great.

I just wanted to point out that the rear fins on the B&W are the same as the midgrades, molded into the body not a separate piece. There are six rounded ribs and they reach up to and touch the forward edge. There's a good view on this mid here. They're just left unpainted for a B&W. This area was cut out and built up from behind, to look like your printed version, to receive the aluminum fins. If you're printing a separate part for the B&W, try to make it fit in as tight and gap free as possible. I made mine with the six fins molded in place because it's easier to cut them out then to build them in later.

We were just discussing the clear tip in @asalaw's thread, how did you make yours?
 

AJK001

Master Member
Those came out really nice and I can't wait to see them finished.

The only thing that looks off to me, and I'm not expert, is that the grips of both of them seem to be a little bit shorter than they should be.
 

Shipbrook

Active Member

Ah, cool, thanks for the link.

I just wanted to point out that the rear fins on the B&W are the same as the midgrades, molded into the body not a separate piece.

Yeah - like with the P1, I started with the later version, and retrofitted it for the B&W version afterwards, keeping the body but changing the rear knob and the fins. Though I guess it wouldn't cost anything to remodel the body and just include both versions when I throw it up on Thingiverse. (I could have sworn I counted seven fins in a screenshot from "The Naked Time", but maybe what I interpreted as the bottom one was actually the upper edge of the main body.)

So was there actually a seam running down through the "fins" on the midgrades?

We were just discussing the clear tip in @asalaw's thread, how did you make yours?

I printed it in a "natural" PLA. That bit I did sand, though, just to see if it would work. It's not quite clear enough for my tastes, so I'm going to try again with T-Glase filament, just as soon as I remember where I put my notes on the best settings for each of my filaments...

The only thing that looks off to me, and I'm not expert, is that the grips of both of them seem to be a little bit shorter than they should be.

Yeah. I'd wanted to model it after the TMoST pics as much as possible, but the shadows in the side view are as dark as the phaser itself, so that made it difficult to gauge. Went looking for those "Sunking's blueprints" that asalaw mentioned but couldn't find them, so I swiped one of his screenshots that showed a nice side view of Greg Jein's phaser, lined it up in the background behind my model as best I could, and used that for the length and width of the grip. (Then I pulled in a model of an N cell battery that I'd made when modeling the P1, and used it to estimate the depth.)

So I think it's proportionally fairly accurate to the Jein grip... at least in two dimensions, anyway. (In my hand, it matches up pretty well against screenshots of Nimoy holding his phaser in "The Man Trap", but I have no idea if my hands are the same size as his were.)
 

AJK001

Master Member
I don't know if this helps but my Wand Company Phaser's handle is just a hair over 3.5 inches long. Even though they got the width of the grip wrong the rest of the dimensions were taken from a scan of Greg Jein's Hero Phaser.
 

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AJK001

Master Member
Gotcha, thanks! Looks like my phaser's grip is about 1/32" shy of 3.5 inches.

If that's the case then it is probably just the angle of the pictures that make the grips look too short. For a 1/32" difference it's probably not worth making new ones unless you really want too.
 

Shipbrook

Active Member
If that's the case then it is probably just the angle of the pictures that make the grips look too short.

And probably the fact that the stands are hiding a portion of the bottom doesn't help either. Do they look that short in the full-on side view of the two of them?
 

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AJK001

Master Member
And probably the fact that the stands are hiding a portion of the bottom doesn't help either. Do they look that short in the full-on side view of the two of them?

I thought the same thing you did, that it was the stands that were making the handles look smaller, but in the side by side shot something just looks off and I can't figure out what it is. As I said I'm not an expert and I was hoping others would chime in and correct me if I'm wrong. Robn1 and asalaw are experts on the TOS Phaser so you might want to contact them and see what they think. I would hate for you to try and correct something that does not need correcting.
 

robn1

Master Member
The handle overall length is 3.59in so you're good there. I thought maybe the "trigger box" that it attaches to was a bit shallow, but that may be just the shadows, hard to tell.
 

Shipbrook

Active Member
For what it's worth, here's the cross-section of my model at the centerline, with one of @asalaw's screenshots behind it (click to embiggen).

M6VHBau.jpg

Not a perfect match, obviously, but I don't think it's too terrible.
 

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asalaw

Sr Member
So was there actually a seam running down through the "fins" on the midgrades?

Depends on which phaser. There are two midgrades out in the wild. One of them has a seam all around it, including the ribs in back. The other one appears seamless. I'm probably doing seams on my current build, but I haven't made up my mind yet. Concentrating on the metal stuff right now.

I love your phaser, I think it's wonderful work, and I think it's awesome that you're doing it in Blender. I'm sorry about the blueprints, they're hard to locate and actually they're not 100% accurate. Once I'm done with my current blitz of activity at the shop, my Blender blueprints are one of the things I'm going to finish, and I absolutely pinky swear they will be available for download. They just need minor rescaling and some adjustments. Shop comes first though, cuz $150/month. Trying to spit out as much as I can of the stuff I can only do there.

Meantime, here's the handle page of Sunking's blueprints, which I know is accurate. Keep it up!! :)

phaser2sections.jpg
 

Shipbrook

Active Member
Meantime, here's the handle page of Sunking's blueprints, which I know is accurate.

Oh, sweet - thanks!

Looks like my handle's about 3mm too narrow from left to right (I'd modeled it with the assumption that they made it a snug fit for the N cells inside, so the microphones wouldn't pick up any rattling, but I guess that central rod kept them pressed against the front and rear walls). But that's a pretty easy fix, just scale the outer wall up a bit in Y.

Anyway, thanks for all the good info you've been posting in your thread (and same to robn1). Like I said, your threads inspired me to finally tackle this project, and all the photos and screenshots made it a heck of a lot easier.
 
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asalaw

Sr Member
Oh, sweet - thanks!

Looks like my handle's about 3mm too narrow from left to right (I'd modeled it with the assumption that they made it a snug fit for the N cells inside, so the microphones wouldn't pick up any rattling, but I guess that central rod kept them pressed against the front and rear walls). But that's a pretty easy fix, just scale the outer wall up a bit in Y.

Anyway, thanks for all the good info you've been posting in your thread (and same to @robn1). Like I said, your threads inspired me to finally tackle this project, and all the photos and screenshots made it a heck of a lot easier.

My pleasure! I'm so glad you were moved to do a build of your own! :) As I've said before...

Anyone%20Can%20Cook.JPG


3mm in width for something as big as the handle is something I wouldn't break a sweat about, but as always, YMMV. Your project, your rules. :)

I doubt battery rattling would be an issue in any case -- the springs and the brass contacts would keep them pretty snug, plus the all-thread as you mentioned.

Don't forget the walls are 0.010" brass sheet, which would be 0.254 mm all the way around. When the measurements get that small, I cease to worry.
 

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