2011 Three Musketeers Aramis costume

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jessamygriffin

Active Member
I know. I know the movie stank. And it was, *cough* less than accurate. But in spite of all that, and my utter loathing for the d'Artagnan in the movie, the costumes were pretty. I enjoyed it. I mostly enjoyed seeing such a stellar cast of talent in such a terrible, TERRIBLE movie. And since I've the Luke Evans beard set made up for other costume and since friends want to do Buckingham and King Louis, I'm working on this.

Right - the project. Aramis, in posh black with loads of black trim, boots, cape, hat and sword and dagger.



For this I'm using the Hill and Bucknell book Patterns of Fashion. It's a challenging book to make patterns from if you are a beginner, but I like it for covering all the awkward in-between eras.

r

How annoying - I want to tag the thread, but there isn't one for Musketeer movies? But there's been so many!
 

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jessamygriffin

Active Member
Shirt - white, has blackwork collars and cuffs. I forced the Husvarna to spew out something, after searching through all my patterns for something olde timey enough to work for the era.



No way was I going to hand-embroider this. No, sir. I actually had this shirt made up already, it was for a Regency navy set, but the patterns for shirts differed so little all I had to do was find leftover white linen and re-do the cuffs and collar. I'll do the collar blanket-stitch edge later.

 

jessamygriffin

Active Member
Jacket - His is this wonderfully peculiar jacquard with a stripe overlay that's almost quilted looking. Lace goes up the arm seams, and the centre back and front panels have a sort of chenille pattern with a netting laid beneath. I can't tell what the buttons are, metal or fabric covered. The cuff has lace, as does the standing collar.




I wasn't really in the mood or market to either hunt out the exact fabrics or do the netting-chenille decorative pattern.
For the jacquard with the side stripe, I decided on a dupioni silk - has a similar sheen the the side-stripe effect.
For the patterned sections, I had a flocked chenille fabric in a jacquard pattern with a gold background that was subtle.

The jacket, before buttons and hemming. I adapted the pattern up-thread, and used the usual tailoring techniques underneath - stiffening in the chest body, shoulder pads. All the silk was backed with iron-on interfacing to give it more body. To help the gold jacquard blend a bit more, I edged the pieces with black lace. The lace on the sleeve seam was done with three types of lace - a wide one, a narrow furniture braid down the centre and narrow black lace on the edges. The same technique was used on the winged epaulettes.



 
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Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is gorgeous! I never tire seeing Musketeer costumes... looking forward to seeing how this all turns out!
 

jessamygriffin

Active Member
This is gorgeous! I never tire seeing Musketeer costumes... looking forward to seeing how this all turns out!
Thank you! I've made musketeer before, the cavalier jacket and the usual tabards, but never for myself. I'm kind of looking forward to see how it turns out myself!
 

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jessamygriffin

Active Member
Jacket - I'd used a white interfacing in the button placket area, so of course that showed through when I cut the button holes. Fabric paint, heat-sealed - and the jacket was white again.

Invisible work - pad stitching some more stiffening to the front shoulder area, cutting the bottom hem straight and hem-stitching it up. The lining was finished as well, and as I was in a hand-sew-y mood, the buttons were added in a fell swoop. 16 large ones down the front, 16 smaller on each sleeve. I didn't bother making functional opening on the sleeves - the cuff isn't so tight that I need it.

Other invisible work, and when you are working black on black, it really is invisible - tacking the fancy lace on the cuffs down so the points didn't flop like old celery.

r


Lace - in the movie, it looks like a very fine, netted lace with a black edging. Well, all my materials thus far had come from my closet, so the lace did as well. Not a movie match but has the general idea. My aunt had given me baggies of hand-crocheted tatting in wonderfully impossible-to-use 70s ombre colours of violet and orange. Its time had come. I dyed it black, used invisible thread to attach it to a crocheted lace I had and stitched it in ruffles to the jacket collar. Oh FINALLY, cleared out some impossible materials! I didn't want to throw away that tatting, after all - my aunt did make it, Id' have felt vaguely guilty.



I can't quite understand why the lace is on the jacket and not the shirt. I know in Georgian times, they had ruffled cuffs etc that were tacked on and could be removed for easy laundering - perhaps something like that? Or just lazy Hollywood costuming?



Buttons - couldn't tell from the movie pics if they were metal or self-fabric covered. But - I had a large baggy of various sized black metal buttons in the stash, so it saved me a trip out again. Project-wise, I'm not much out of pocket - I needed to buy some extra iron-on interfacing, but everything else so far has been culled from stuff I have. It's nice not being a detail, must-be-exact-to-movie nerd for once.

The trousers are done, just haven't taken any pics of them yet.
 
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Yrien

Well-Known Member
I've never seen this movie, but I definitely see why you'd want to make this costume. So intricate! I can't wait to see how it turns out. :)
 

Indy Magnoli

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'd love to see more photos of the other Musketeer outfits you've made in the past! I know there are a few fellow Musketeers on the RPF... but the threads are very few and far between.
 

jessamygriffin

Active Member
I've never seen this movie, but I definitely see why you'd want to make this costume. So intricate! I can't wait to see how it turns out. :)
This movie, this bloody movie. One friend had been longing to see it, so of course my flatmate and I watched it without her and then asked her, "WHY???"

She said she wanted to see the Mr and Mrs Smith-like relationship between Lady De Winter and Athos. Which, okay.

If you like terrible, steam-punky movies (and the only worse I can envision right now is the Sherlock Holmes one with dinosaurs in it...) watch this. It's got Christopher Waltz as the Cardinal, Mads Mikkelsen as Rochefort, Mila Jovovich, Matthew McFayden as Athos, Luke Evans as above, and Orlando bloody Bloom as the campiest most redonkulous Buckingham ever. But the petulant King Louis is SO adorable. I mean, look at this cast. It should have been amazing. But watch it and it's just the worst writing, so many plot holes. If you have the right frame of mind, you'll have fun.

Going fabric shopping with a friend today to look for King Louis-type fabric, but cheap, hope we get lucky! I'm a whiz at period costumes, so I'm pitching in. I like a challenge, and she's Japanese, and that's actually hard for me to get my head around, not making costumes in my normal gargantuan size. Wish me luck.
 
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Yrien

Well-Known Member
LOL I'll have to see if it's on Netflix! Though I admit a deep and sincere love for the 90s version (which I haven't seen in probably 15 years and I'm a little worried that I won't like it if I watch it again now, lol).
 

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jessamygriffin

Active Member
I'd love to see more photos of the other Musketeer outfits you've made in the past! I know there are a few fellow Musketeers on the RPF... but the threads are very few and far between.
I never did take pics of the tabards, and the cavalier pieces, while nice enough, were something I made years ago and not really that quality. Be too embarrassing to put that up! But I started cosplay from the historical end of costume making, so I'd love to see more musketeers myself! My friend recommend the recent BBC series, and they do look interestingly rough and complex.
 

jessamygriffin

Active Member
Breeches - very high-waisted, button fly, and scads of lace down the seams again. Makes me feel a but like a bullfighter when I pull them on. The back waist band was eyelets and lacing to allow for expansion, if I get fat or lend them to someone larger than I.



Waist Sash



The waist sash is freshly finished. I used a heavy canvas for the base and a satin lining fabric. It feels a bit like an obi!

An odd thing about the movie version is that it isn't really tied. Possibly closed with hook and eyes where the sash end falls over. I used velcro in mine. The other odd thing is how the sash end is tacked down and pre-creased. Great for continuity, I suppose, and avoiding a huge knot.




Boots WIP - I'm just going to make some boot covers. Vinyl purchased, and on we go.
 

jessamygriffin

Active Member
I love the way the pants look, and that fabric is gorgeous​.
Thanks! Kind of lucked out on the breeches when I chose button fly closure - I only found recently a pic that indicates that Luke Evan's did indeed close that way. Hurrah.


I actually found a curtain jacquard when I was out Saturday that is a close match for the jacket and breeches, but too late, man! Anyway, the silk I'm using was in my closet already, and lighter.
 

Yrien

Well-Known Member
Hah, awesome!

My fabric collection is small but growing. I tend to buy fabric specifically for projects, but I had a friend who was purging some of her collection so I have some strange and interesting stuff from her that I have no idea when I will use it, lol.
 

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jessamygriffin

Active Member
Boots and Hat

Got the boot covers done and have spurned all period boot-making technique by using vinyl, machine stitching and velcro. The tops fit over my ankle boots and fasten under the arch with velcro. There's a band inside the top with a drawstring to keep the tops snugged up over the tops of my calves - I just roll the top of the boot up a bit and it's all concealed. Not that you can tell much anyway, what with all the black-on- black. The butterfly spur things are doubled up vinyl, fastened at the side and under the arch with velcro yet again. Makes for a simple add-on, really.

j

The hat was an slightly-too-big for me wool blank that I sprayed with water and steamed to help straighten the brim and add the side curl. Like the hat in the movie, the edging is just gold thread stitching - I used my machine's zigzag stitch. It took about four passes around the brim. Gold lace was glue-gunned on, and the black lace on top. I hope in future to get some extra fluffy plumes - all I had were some small ones and I filled it out with peacock feathers.





Next stage - won't be until September, I wager. I'll be on holiday for all of August, but while I'm away, I'm going to buy the sword belt and frog and scabbard, as well as gold dome buttons for when I get to the cape/cassock.
 

jessamygriffin

Active Member
Test - now I've got lots of the pieces done, I think it's working out. It's nice being the (wo)man in black. In spite of having to CONSTANTLY have to tug the jacket down because of boobs and butt. And I did bind. Irksome. Well, at least I had gloves to go with the outfit. The cross is just something I had kicking around, it's totally wrong but good enough for a test pic.




Anyway, it's still a WIP, but it'll be some time before I can finish this so...
 

jessamygriffin

Active Member
Back in Japan, thrown into whirlwind of fall term, but thought I'd update something I did while on vacation and had the access to my dad's workshop.

At a reenactment event, I picked up a dagger frog and a sword frog that had an appropriate fleur de lis on it. Not quite right, either, for exactness to the movie but close enough and saved me making them, though I did rework the sword frog. It was meant to hang from a belt, but I wanted the strapping that Evan's character had in the movie. It looked more practical with the clips for easy removal and buckles to adjust the angle the sword hung at. So, that's what I did - cut, whipped off some components and attached the straps. The belt is a nice thick piece from a cheap edging I got at the same event (in Pennsylvania).



The white decoration on the front strap was stitched in the movie. For the sake of sanity I just painted mine on, and touched up the fleur de lis to bring the ensemble together.




The scabbard is a piece of PVC pipe with a plumbing fitting at the bottom, similar to the great metal-ish thing that tips Aramis' scabbard. I covered it with pleather, and stitched some decorative filigree jewellery things on to reflect in style what was in the movie version as well.



Happily, I already had a dagger thing, a three-sided blade, cheap, probably Indian. (Since both weapons are metal, I won't be bringing them to cons, only photoshoots.) Not like the movie version again, but I said upthread I wasn't going for complete accuracy.



The sword is a reenactment schlager for fencing in the SCA - quite a heavy blade, with a long tang. Though my dad's workshop has all sorts of welding equipment, I was on vacation, and I don't really know much about metal work anyway. I COULD have made the proper hilt and guards. I didn't. At the event, I picked up some fittings for the blade that were *sort of* similar to the movie. I don't think anyone will quibble about it. The only metal working I did was to grind off a metal cup that was on the ring section of the quillons and file it smooth and buff it. The rings are a touch big for doing pistol-grip, but sufficient. Maybe sometime I'll get another stab at making the hilt. Granted, his wooden cross pieces are more angular and remind me of fancy butcher's blades, but I did what I could without my dad's former fancy woodworking stuff.



The fun part was using ye old table saw, chop saw and jigsaw to work the cherry wood my dad had lying around to fit over the crossguard/quillons I'd bought. (He used to have a band saw and scroll saw but those have been sold, alas.) I used the table saw to lay a groove down the wood pieces, used some stick glue and clamps to hold them together and drilled a channel from the crosspiece to fit into. When final shaping was down, the wood was glued and clamped around the guard.


For the rivets, mine are only decorative. The large ones on the side are similar to the movie, the little cross decoration was my own addition, since Aramis is a priestly sort and does pray for the men he's killed with the sword as his cross. I got some nails, ground the tops smoother, clipped them, pre-drilled holes and used wood glue to help keep them in place.



There was no wood stain, so I used some of my mom's leather dye. Some clear coat, sanding, more clear coat, and it was done. Probably could be more professional, but I was pressed for time.

The finger rings I bought were meant to be a scorpion style crossguard for a dagger. I reversed it, made the hole a bit bigger and used the force of the pommel thread to sort of screw and push it into the wood of the crossguard to keep it from swivelling around as it wanted to do.

In the meantime, I'm scrambling to throw together a Starlord that won't look complete pants for an event next week, and I need to work a commision for the King Louis this costume will be paired with, so this costume will have to wait a bit. The cloak is up next, though! Buttons galore!

That's it for now.

 

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