1/48 Tie Bomber ("105 Series")

[Rulebreaker]

This is a project i started a year ago, bought/gahtered all the kit parts, but when i started the Deagostini Millenium Falcon i halted this project. Now that the Millenium Falcon is almost finished i started working on the Tie Bomber again.

I had one important aim, to make it cost as least as possible, so i bought most kits only once.
So instead of buying 4-6 Leopold Kits, i only bought each once and started "digitalizing" the parts.


The leopold part for example took me four tries till it was perfect. With more kits it would have been only cutting to shape and thats it. In my first print i was assuming, that all covers have the same size, but they dont, and in the second try i realized, that it still doesnt fit, because the big cover is not just two in one, its smaller again. So i have to draw, print, check, corect, repeat over and over till its perfect.


Some Parts i only have digitalized partialy, because its not used on the Tie Bomber as a whole and not even on any other Star Wars kit. Such as this "leopold" part, the only other use would be on the back side of the "Head" of the 1978 Battlestar Galactica and the cylon mine uses it extensively.


Here the other parts and what i have so far, some smaller parts/greebles/greeblings still need to be made.


Since i have a MPC Tie Advanced, i started with the wings later.

 

[Rulebreaker]

"scale" "Diskussion"

Back to the Tie Bomber

I printed everything for "fast" so i used .24 layer height, wich can be clearly seen on the "bombtagon" part. In .12 it would need double printing time but would look smoother. Resin printers have evolved and it would only need for a layer height of .0015(1,5 mikrons 16k printer) only a hour, but afterwards u have to clean, cure and washing everything, where on the fdm printer you pick it up from the heat bed and your ready to go.

 

[joberg]

Wow, that's a pretty cool looking bomber What's the brand of your printer?

 

[Rulebreaker]

Wow, that's a pretty cool looking bomber What's the brand of your printer?

the cheapest "quality" one i could get, a sovol sv06, two years ago it was 100 bucks on amazon

 

[Rulebreaker]

 

[Analyzer]

Excellent and thorough work

 

[Rulebreaker]

small update on the bombtagon parts

but i think the pow/kgv parts should be angled

 

[chazzychaz]

Hello are any of these parts available or the stl files please.

 

[Rulebreaker]

some one is getting a little brother

and i found a kit on evil bay, won the auction, shiping was more expensive then the kit

now i need to find an old tamiya 1/700 yamato/musashi

 

[Analyzer]

some one is getting a little brotherView attachment 1914361
and i found a kit on evil bay, won the auction, shiping was more expensive then the kit
View attachment 1914362View attachment 1914363
now i need to find an old tamiya 1/700 yamato/musashi

what part(s) do you need from the old Yamato/Musashi?

I have a couple of kits that were built by my younger brother back in the 80s. I have been keeping them around to rob for spare parts here and there

 

[Rulebreaker]

fusion 360 mesh import guide
in the interface, in the "solid" area is a button that says insert, insert mesh

this window shows up

place the item where you want and press ok, switch from "solid" to "mesh" then select the whole thing and press prepare -> generate face groups

it will look like a rainbow

select the whole thing, next prepare, combine face groups

select the whole thing, now you can modify -> convert the mesh(stl) thing into a solid body

there are two options the free one, and the pay2win one, wich needs u to activate a subscription, that costs a kidney each month

than it can be modified as "usual" more or less

first i start to remove unnessesary triangles, that are not used

fusion360 hates everything round, when i tried to clean the carry handle area, fusion crashed, and i had to start over again, next time i removed the carryhandles, and it worked much better.

why do you need this, you can modify the body, but fusion behaves slugish and everything round always will be bad, specialy when upscaleing
so the best method would be to make every part in fusion again.

fun fact
i found out how to change the color of a part
under modify, appereance u can right click on the appereances you are useing in that file and duplicate and edit them

when editing u can change to any color you want

 

[Rulebreaker]

what part(s) do you need from the old Yamato/Musashi?

I have a couple of kits that were built by my younger brother back in the 80s. I have been keeping them around to rob for spare parts here and there

Its the bridge/conning/main tower of the old 1971-1992 kits
the newer versions with retooling from the 1998s and on, are manufactured more acurately and detailed better

here is a comparison of both instructions

old Kits have the WL.B009, WL.B013 numbers
newer Kits have the 31113, 31114 numbers

 

[Rulebreaker]

i found another way to do import "stl" or tinkercad files into fusion360, with tinkercad you can export directly to fusion, but again no round parts allowed

it works with simplier things, but "complex" things, things with circles dont work flawlessly
the green part took just a couple of seconds, the yellow part after clean up(remove everything round, and inserted/cut the round things with fusion afterwards) too, but the big blue thing took 20min to load

on the "bolts" it doesn't work flawlessly

but on the wing hub it works, maybe it depends on the size too

 

[Rulebreaker]

one good feature is the circular pattern, it makes several parts go around an axis, but you need only one part, to create the others in a perfect space/angle between them

in the second picture u can see, fusion likes to forget where the middle of a part is/was, so u need to add a sketch

this is its current state, i get better and comfy everyday, each day with out a stroke is a good day

the bombs won't be installed until tuesday

there are still more then 30 individual parts that need to be digitalized and added to the model

 

[Rulebreaker]

some smaller/fine progress

finaly did the pow(prince of wales) part to fit to the bomtagon, angle and depth looks god


i replaced all round things with, fusion made round things and fixed all wierd surfaces
i also made this

the new one is superior over the old, the old had over 2000 "surfaces"...

i re designed this part for the third time and its still not looking right

the fuze timer set for the 88 flak 37/38 gun

this part from the 88 needs to be "bend", like this it looks bad

there is 15 parts left, the wings and the cockpit area, and the surface of the fuselages(paneling and screw holes)

there is also this area that needs a decission

my part on the left, the studio version on the right
my version has the "karl" part seamless integrated into the hull, but on the studio scale version it is only glued in the front and everything rearward is "flying", on pictures u can see the area behind the pink part has some putty...
i think the best solution would be to go with the SS version, but make the "karl" part 1mm longer so it touches the fuselage, this would be the best of both worlds

when compareing the pictures its "hard to see" but it could be putted (red) or "plan b" the green lines tell me that the part is canted/slanted down to the rear, to close the gap - wondering how Boxcar Bret has solved that?

 

[Rulebreaker]

today i got an old MPC Tie Advanced, so i can compare it with the "newest" version from "Round 2"

The new box, a little smaller

The old box

whats inside the old box?

compareing with the new one

the lower hull is missing the mounting points for the "ski like landing gear" and the bottom cap is much better detailed

the wing hub is "deeper" better detailed and the canopy is better detailed

and Lord Vader is 1/48 around 2,2m tall, where the old guy mold is around 1/40

all other parts are the same

 

[Analyzer]

Its the bridge/conning/main tower of the old 1971-1992 kits
the newer versions with retooling from the 1998s and on, are manufactured more acurately and detailed better

here is a comparison of both instructions
View attachment 1915701
old Kits have the WL.B009, WL.B013 numbers
newer Kits have the 31113, 31114 numbers

Let me see if I can dig them out of storage and check what is there