1/350 Enterprise refit aztec question

C

cellarboy

Member
I've had a 1/350 Enterpise refit sat in a box, trying to pluck up the courage to get started on it. I'm weighing up wether to use the included aztec decals or really go for it with the the aztec paint masks (probably Orbital Drydock) and do a full-on job with it.

I have a few of questions though:

1) What base coat colour to use? I'm thinking rattle can Tamiya to save myself going nuts from using the airbrush, but "Pure White", "Matt White" or "Pearl White"?

2) If using the Pearl Ex pigments (about the only thing I can find in Canada), what medium to mix them with? Orbital Drydock recommend Alclad gloss coat, but what about Alclad "transparent medium?" There's not much info on the stuff and I may be missing something about the purpose of it.

3) Has anyone use skipped the pigments entirely and used different sheens of clear coat with the masks? Alclad have about 5 different clear coat sheens and I had wondered if using these might give a more subtle, but similar aztec effect.

Thanks in advance for anyone taking a crack at answering these and offering advice. This model is a BIG step up from anything I've done so I'm pretty nervous about fouling it up!
 
Nothing compares with a true iridescent 5 color paint job using OD masks. When complete you have a competition winner. I used Rust-oleum flat white primer wet sanded with 1500 grit as the base coat, the McKenzie acrylic iridescent paints with the Orbital Drydock masks, and Pledge Future as the top coat. It won "Best Graphics/Paint of Show" @ Best of the West 2016. Just wet sand between every application so everything blends and take your time. Follow the OD videos and it will turn out great. This paint job was my 1st with an airbrush, I just took my time and followed the videos closely. Brett has done his mask true justice in the videos.
 
Supercoolin said:
Nothing compares with a true iridescent 5 color paint job using OD masks. When complete you have a competition winner. I used Rust-oleum flat white primer wet sanded with 1500 grit as the base coat, the McKenzie acrylic iridescent paints with the Orbital Drydock masks, and Pledge Future as the top coat. It won "Best Graphics/Paint of Show" @ Best of the West 2016. Just wet sand between every application so everything blends and take your time. Follow the OD videos and it will turn out great. This paint job was my 1st with an airbrush, I just took my time and followed the videos closely. Brett has done his mask true justice in the videos.
Click to expand...

Oooof... THAT'S a lot of wet-sanding...!
 
You shouldn't have to do too much sanding using the lacquer. It should be misted on very thin. The acrylic iridescent is a bit heavier bodied and will probably need sanding.
 
cellarboy said:
I've had a 1/350 Enterpise refit sat in a box, trying to pluck up the courage to get started on it. I'm weighing up wether to use the included aztec decals or really go for it with the the aztec paint masks (probably Orbital Drydock) and do a full-on job with it.

I have a few of questions though:

1) What base coat colour to use? I'm thinking rattle can Tamiya to save myself going nuts from using the airbrush, but "Pure White", "Matt White" or "Pearl White"?

2) If using the Pearl Ex pigments (about the only thing I can find in Canada), what medium to mix them with? Orbital Drydock recommend Alclad gloss coat, but what about Alclad "transparent medium?" There's not much info on the stuff and I may be missing something about the purpose of it.

3) Has anyone use skipped the pigments entirely and used different sheens of clear coat with the masks? Alclad have about 5 different clear coat sheens and I had wondered if using these might give a more subtle, but similar aztec effect.

Thanks in advance for anyone taking a crack at answering these and offering advice. This model is a BIG step up from anything I've done so I'm pretty nervous about fouling it up!
Click to expand...

1) I use Tamiya Fine White Primer as the base coat. Wet sanded with 800-1000grit. Clean up work on the aztecs is very light & only where needed. I lightly wet send with 2000grit for the clean up.

2) Alclad Klear Kote all sheens are lacquer. I believe the transparent medium is an acrylic, similar to Tamiya clear acrylic.

3) That's a pretty interesting idea. Kind of similar to the different metal finishes on the NX-01. There might be one issue. When you final clear coat after decals, you might loose the variations in sheen. Test, Test, Test.......

If you go the full acrylic aztec route, it's safe to top coat with future. If you go Alclad lacquer aztecs, definitely top coat with Alclad lacquer.


Supercoolin said:
Nothing compares with a true iridescent 5 color paint job using OD masks. When complete you have a competition winner. I used Rust-oleum flat white primer wet sanded with 1500 grit as the base coat, the McKenzie acrylic iridescent paints with the Orbital Drydock masks, and Pledge Future as the top coat. It won "Best Graphics/Paint of Show" @ Best of the West 2016. Just wet sand between every application so everything blends and take your time. Follow the OD videos and it will turn out great. This paint job was my 1st with an airbrush, I just took my time and followed the videos closely. Brett has done his mask true justice in the videos.
Click to expand...

Congrats on your award! Very well done!
 
Hope the OP doesn't mind my jumping in here with a question (no need to start a new thread)...

I'm just wondering what some are doing for the saucer rim, er job, with regards to the horizontal lines. Did you sand them down and paint them on, or leave them raised and paint them? It's been a big concern for me and viewing screen caps just don't seem clear enough to give me an decent answer.

Thanks
 
Mine sits in a box, prolly for ever. With the electronics added, it was front heavy. Dang thin looks like its sad when its on its perch.
 
Thanks for all your advice guys! So very appreciated. I've got to admit this kit scares the heck of me. I'll take it really really slow!

I did quickly put together the 1/1000 refit the other day for a quick test of things and did learn one valuable lesson - Tamiya Primers are worth their weight in gold as for the first time ever I decided to use Moldel Master Primer through the airbrush and the paint lifts off as soon as you so much as look at the darn thing! lol
 
cellarboy said:
Thanks for all your advice guys! So very appreciated. I've got to admit this kit scares the heck of me. I'll take it really really slow!
Click to expand...

Agreed. The most challenging and daunting subject of all, IMO. Can't really imagine more sophisticated lighting system, or complicated paint job.
 
So I just re bought this beastie, and am planning to use the decals. I tried masking aztecs on a 1/600 Revell Enterpise I was converting to a different ship, my brain fried after just the upper saucer and nacelles, NEVER ended up painting it and eventually tossed it. While I totally appreciate those with the guts to paint it properly, I fully acknowledge my lack of such guts and will go with decals.

That said, what would be a good way to achieve a pearlescent effect with ssud decals?
 
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