1/32 BSG Viper Mk II - Revell/Moebius build

Discussion in 'General Modeling' started by HughB, Jun 17, 2015.

  1. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Hi all!

    After finishing my first foray back into modelling with the JJprise which I started last summer, I've decided to keep going, and move from something that was probably a bit ambitious to something that'll hopefully be a bit simpler. I've settled on the 1/32 Viper Mk II from Revell (which I believe is a European reboxing of the Moebius kit), which should provide me with the opportunity to do a bit more small detail for things like landing gear and cockpit, but will have a simpler lighting scheme and also allow me to weather the heck out of it! The Star Trek universe, while lovely, is so very clean...

    Also, it's a cool-looking fighter :)

    I have the Paragrafix photo-etch set for the Moebius kit, and it fits the Revell reboxing perfectly, so I'm starting with the cockpit. First off, cutting out all the areas behind the dials so they can be backlit, and then fitting the photoetch:

    09-Photo 13-06-2015 18 39 45.jpg 10-Photo 13-06-2015 21 29 07.jpg

    Mmmmm, primer:

    11-Photo 14-06-2015 15 16 43.jpg

    I'm using Alclad grey primer for the first time, and I have to say it's lovely. Goes on really thin and smooth from the airbrush. Also, those Paragrafix dials and control panels are really nice.

    I then made the catastrophic error of looking at some reference from the full size prop that was auctioned off a while ago. The seat is totally wrong. Wrong wrong wrong. And the kit part looks really uncomfortable too.

    Kit part:

    01-Photo 16-06-2015 20 04 18.jpg

    Full size prop:

    dscn0640.jpg

    Since I'm planning to display the model in the hangar with no pilot and the canopy open, this is going to stick out like a sore thumb. The kit part also doesn't have any attachment points for the pilot's harness, and I really want to add seatbelts to this build. We're going to need a new seat. Fortunately, Galactiguise has excellent reference of the actual seat used.

    This is my first attempt at scratchbuilding or sculpting anything, so here goes nothing...

    I made some templates for the angle of the seat back from styrene, and the seat pan. These were glued together and roughly sanded to shape:

    02-Photo 16-06-2015 20 19 47.jpg 03-Photo 16-06-2015 20 27 31.jpg 04-Photo 16-06-2015 21 01 26.jpg

    I marked out where the different padding sections should be (mark 1 eyeball used for this part), as well as the holes for seatbelt attachement points:

    05-Photo 16-06-2015 21 18 56.jpg

    Seat padding was added using Milliput white epoxy putty in strips:

    06-Photo 16-06-2015 21 46 50.jpg

    Aaaand we're done!

    07-Photo 16-06-2015 22 43 45.jpg 08-Photo 16-06-2015 22 51 28.jpg

    I don't mind that it's a bit wonky, the actual prop's fabric cover is quite slouchy after quite a lot of Starbuck sitting in it. I'll give this a sand and a coat of primer once the Milliput's fully cured. The kit seat will now need to be cut away to allow the new piece to sit in place properly - it should go below the pads used for a headrest.

    Next stop, seatbelts. I have some Eduard 1/32 RAF harnesses with separate buckles that I plan to use with either Milliput or tape belts.
     
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  2. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    * your eyes man, now I have to pull apart my cockpit and see if I can replicate your efforts here. Fine work there HughB.
     
  3. Tumbler

    Tumbler Active Member

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    Nice job on the seat. Great attention to detail. Did you consider at all trying to use some actual fabric/covering? A but adventurous I admit but maybe cool to try....or maybe not worth it.
     
  4. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Er. Sorry... This all started because I really wanted to add seatbelts and I couldn't work out where to attach them to the kit part! I was also researching what colour the various buttons and indicator lights should be and spotted the photos of the seat. For an easy life, never look at references, that's the lesson here!

    I didn't think about it to be honest. Sculpting was the first place my mind went when I was thinking about this. I think any fabric grain would be very overscale in this case though, and getting the padding structure would be pretty fiddly too!
     
  5. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    HughB, I drilled out the openings for the seatbelts in the cockpit and used curling ribbon with photoetch for the belts. I am going with my original concept of having the pilot, in this case Starbuck, seated in the cockpit. I'm going to have her with her helmet off talking with ground crew as they prep her Viper. Going to use the Lily Lityvak head from the Master Box aces set. Going to cast a clear resin helmet to rest just above the instrument panel.

    If I do another Viper without the pilot, I'm definitely going to use your idea for the seat.
     
  6. Mike J.

    Mike J. Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I dunno, the Kelvin looked a bit beat-up....

    Awesome job on the cockpit so far :) !


    -MJ
     
  7. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    That sounds awesome! Looking forward to seeing it.

    Heh, true story!

    Progress update - I cut out the area where the old seat was, and filed down the edges a bit so the new seat can sit under the headrest pads. The hole was filled with milliput which also served to even up the edges:

    1-Photo 20-06-2015 22 01 46.jpg 2-Photo 20-06-2015 22 46 42.jpg

    I primed and painted the seat semi-gloss black, and began the frustration-intensive process of fabricating seatbelts out of masking tape and photoetch:

    3-Photo 21-06-2015 17 53 30.jpg 8-Photo 21-06-2015 18 37 14.jpg

    After fitting to the seat, they looked a bit... perky, so I wetted them down with some watered down PVA glue which, once soaked in, got them to conform to the seat better:

    4-Photo 21-06-2015 18 45 50.jpg 5-Photo 21-06-2015 19 06 10.jpg

    A bit of flat black paint, and we're done!

    7-Photo 21-06-2015 22 15 07.jpg 6-Photo 21-06-2015 22 06 15.jpg

    Next to do: painting the cockpit tub. Detailing the buttons is going to be.. interesting.
     
  8. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    The seat looks fantastic!!! If you give it a green/silver wash I bet it would look just the prop photo. One method I use to paint the buttons is to grab several round toothpicks and cut or shave down several different sized ends. A careful dab of paint on the end and Bob's your uncle, one painted button.


    I bought a set of masters and molds of figures from a chap in the States. He did up five figures as deck crew for the Viper. I also picked up a few pieces of equipment from Brad Hair to use with the figures. Even got my hands on a boarding ladder and maintenance ladder from Shapeways Both the figures and the equipment are a bit rough and I'm working on them to make them more presentable. Brad said he's working on new equipment he's hoping to release in time for the Moebius Raptor later this year. Check out the pictures.

    PC181453small.JPG PC181454small.JPG PC181455small.JPG PC181456small.JPG PC181457small.JPG
     
  9. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Wow, that diorama's going to be great! I'm not going as far, but am planning to make a base that looks a bit like hangar bay decking. I picked up some scale tread-plate embossed styrene from Don Mills on ebay, and was planning on using it and some brass to scratch-build a boarding ladder, but if the shapeways one is any good I might go that route. The only thing is it maybe looks a little large/high, what do you think? Is there a tread-plate pattern on the rungs?
     
  10. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    The layout in the photos is just a proof of concept thing. There is a chap form Oz who has done resin wall pieces to make the bays with. I've shot off a message to him to see how he is coming along with them. I also found some images of the actual set layout drawings complete with measurements so if the resin ones don't work, I'll beak out my sheet styrene and have ago myself.

    The Shapeways product is done in Strong, White and Flexible which is a nylon composite. it is rough to the touch and I am applying a resin product over it to smooth it out. Check out the photos for an example. I have asked them if it will be available in a different material.

    As for the ladder being too tall, I haven't glued the landing gear in place yet and the kit sagged a little because of that. I am sending along the e-mail address of a fellow in Florida who does a resin kit of the ladder as well as a link to a review of the kit., email him for availability and shipping cost. If you decide to scratchbuild your own you'll have a shape to work with. And yes, there is a tread pattern on the rungs. I'm attaching photos as proof.

    e-mail - cl2012@yahoo.com
    review site - http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=22695
    Shapeways page - https://www.shapeways.com/shops/moebiusmodels

    2014-05-30 17.57.57.jpg 100_3095-332x500.jpg Ladder 01.jpg Ladder 02.jpg Ladder 03.jpg Ladder 04.jpg

    As you can see in the last picture there are two types of ladders but only the far one is modeled.
     
  11. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Thanks for the links, that's really handy - I'll look into those for sure! My question about the tread plate was about the shapeways model specifically - does it have tread plate on it?
     
  12. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry Hugh, didn't quite catch on to that. No, the Shapeways one does not have the tread plate pattern on it although to be honest I think it would be difficult to do on the 3D pattern. Can't say anything about the Larson Designs kit as I've never encountered any reviews of the kit. Keep us all posted with your progress.
     
  13. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Hi all!

    Progress has been a little slow, but work on the cockpit continues. I've masked and painted the two different shades of grey for the sidewalls and front panel (a mixture of Tamiya medium sea grey 2 and ocean grey) - I tried to get close to the colours listed here. Not quite right, but I'll take it.

    Then it was masking the individual dials and panels for a coat of flat black. Fiddliest masking job I think I've ever done, cutting 0.5mm strips of tape!

    1-Photo 29-06-2015 21 37 32.jpg 2-Photo 29-06-2015 22 06 24.jpg

    Black paint on:

    3-Photo 29-06-2015 22 55 36.jpg

    ... and then painting buttons with a toothpick. Fiddly, again! A bit of touch-up was definitely required here...

    5-Photo 07-07-2015 20 01 14.jpg

    Finally, a coat of clear and the decals went on. I used a mixture of the Revell-supplied ones and the Paragrafix ones where there wasn't a Revell equivalent. The printing on the Revel ones is much crisper, the PG ones seem quite pixelated:

    6-Photo 10-07-2015 01 05 52.jpg 7-Photo 10-07-2015 01 06 42.jpg

    Next job - flat coat, drops of gloss for the dials, and then I'll fit the backlit films. I'm planning to start work on the lighting circuit this weekend!
     
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  14. Mike J.

    Mike J. Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Very impressive!
     
  15. astroboy

    astroboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    wow!!!


    I should pull mine out of the box!
     
  16. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    I love the work you did for the harness straps, what did you use for the main buckle?
     
  17. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    The PE was all from a Eduard 1/32 scale set of late WWII RAF harnesses - I forget which set exactly, since all I was really after was the tensioning buckles.
     
  18. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    That is what I thought it might be, guess I'll be going blind scratchbuilding one for Starbuck. Thanks again mate. Remember to keep us all updated on your work.

    Don
     
  19. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Will do! I've been trying to keep on top of it, but life has been getting in the way somewhat, you know how it is :)

    The buckle was from the PE set too, you might be able to adjust it to make it work as a closed buckle, although I'm not sure how. I'd also add that I don't think it's accurate for the Viper, I just needed something in there!
     
  20. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Hi all,

    Work continues, slowly. I've fitted the paragrafix backlit films to the cockpit. A word of warning here - the ink used to print this film is not sealed on the back side, and is extremely delicate and water-soluble. Any water-based glue (like the micro krystal klear I used) will dissolve this ink almost immediately, and render the film utterly useless. I actually destroyed both copies of the top screen when I was doing this - the final piece is actually the supplied decal attached to a piece of clear plastic film and glued in.

    Anyway, a few very frustrating hours later and they're in:

    08-Photo 16-07-2015 23 15 20.jpg

    One LED behind just to see what it looks like:

    09-Photo 16-07-2015 23 15 37.jpg 10-Photo 16-07-2015 23 16 10.jpg

    I plan to light each screen separately using some smd leds that I have left over from the Enterprise project, so that I can have them come on one by one as part of a start-up sequence, and also flicker and blink randomly as it the whole thing was a bit shaky! That means soldering wires a bunch of these tiny things again, which I have lost the knack of:

    11-Photo 19-07-2015 16 30 34.jpg

    I got a few done, and fitted behind the screens - I had to make some light-proof dividers for a few places too, so that screens that are close together could be isolated.

    A green one for the top display:

    01-Photo 18-07-2015 19 20 54.jpg

    White for the rest:

    05-Photo 19-07-2015 17 02 55.jpg 06-Photo 19-07-2015 17 05 43.jpg 07-Photo 19-07-2015 17 06 13.jpg

    0.5mm optical fibre fitted for the indicator lights on the main panel - I'll put more 0.25mm fibre for the lights on the starboard side panel too. These are just hooked up to one green LED for testing, I'll decide what to actually do with them later. I might have some of them come on and off for different flight modes or weapons locks or something:

    03-Photo 18-07-2015 21 51 41.jpg

    Finally, there are lights shining down on the port and starboard control panels from the top of the cockpit. More SMD LEDs and it looks a bit like this:

    02-Photo 18-07-2015 19 49 51.jpg

    I'm going to use warm white SMD LEDs for the analogue dials on the main control panel, so I need to solder up 6 of those, plus one normal LED for the main display. I got rather frustrated yesterday though, losing SMD LEDs to the carpet monster, so I gave up and painted the control column instead. I'll pick the LEDs back up after work tonight, and then that'll be the cockpit nearly done! Time to start work on the LED driver electronics.

    Cheers,

    Hugh
     

    Attached Files:

  21. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    This weekend was spent finishing off the cockpit lighting. I don't have much to say that I haven't said already, just some pictures of the various dials lit up individually - I used brass strip to make dividers to block light from going where it wasn't wanted.

    5-Photo 25-07-2015 21 46 55.jpg 4-Photo 25-07-2015 21 46 25.jpg 2-Photo 25-07-2015 21 45 16.jpg 3-Photo 25-07-2015 21 45 51.jpg 6-Photo 25-07-2015 21 47 33.jpg 7-Photo 25-07-2015 21 48 34.jpg 1-Photo 25-07-2015 21 44 09.jpg

    And it's spaghetti junction at the back! I quite like the brass shroud I made for the LED for the main screen, it looks like there's some big CRT monitor back there :)

    9-Photo 25-07-2015 22 14 16.jpg 8-Photo 25-07-2015 21 49 09.jpg

    Next, I'm going to work out how many separate channels of lighting I actually want in this thing... I need to decide if I want to use 2 or 3 shift registers. If I keep each panel separate, I've got 12 channels in the cockpit alone, without taking into account the LEDs for the fibre optic buttons (12 strands, but I'll group those together). In addition to this, there will be 1 channel for the wing tip lights, and 3-9 for the RGB LEDs in the engines (3 if I have all engines act in unison, 9 if I want them to be able to flicker independently). Each shift register offers me 8 channels, so I can have either 16 or 24, so the question becomes "Can I fit them all in the fueslage"?
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2015
  22. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    You sir are definitely taking your Viper to the next level, well done.
     
  23. stecox

    stecox New Member

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    Hi,
    Looking good. i have just bought the same kit but the Moebius one as I am in the UK. just wondering, since yours is a Revell one, are the paints listed Revell? the one i have has Testors ones and i cant find the colours need here. if you do have the Revell ones, any chance you could post a picture of the list (or similar) so i can try and find the colours i need since i am not having much luck finding direct replacements for what are in the instructions.
    Thanks

    --- Edit ---

    just noticed, you are in the UK as well, i must have got an import model. hopefully with yours being a European version it will be easier to find the colours.
     
  24. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    stecox,

    Greeting from Canada. The Revell kits of Battlestar Galactica you have across the pond are the Moebius kits reboxed for Revell. The one and only difference is the decals in the Revell editions. They have extras on them that are not in the Moebius decal sheets.

    Here is a link to the a PDF of the instructions for the Revell of Germany edition with all the paints listed.
    http://www.revell.de/fileadmin/import/images/bau/04988_#BAU_COLONIAL_VIPER_MK_II.PDF

    Hope this helps.

    Best regards,
    Don
     
  25. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    They are, and 19narvik40's helpfully posted the scan of the instructions, but I'd add that they're not entirely accurate. I'm sort of eyeballing the colours based on this reference, and using some Tamiya paints because they airbrush nicely, and Alclad IIs for the metallics (I'm using their Steel, Jet Exhaust, and Aluminium colours). The cockpit should actually be two different shades of grey, and the main fuselage is not actually white, but a very pale grey as well.
     
  26. stecox

    stecox New Member

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    thank you both for your help. this is going to be my first attempt at any type of model making and those revell instructions look a lot easier to follow than what came with my kit.
     
  27. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    Do your self a huge favour and Google Viper MkII builds. You should get a ton of links to study as well a bunch of Youtube videos to check out. There are plenty right here on the RPF.

    Don
     
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  28. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Just a very quick update: No major model work undertaken, but I have been playing about with the code and experimenting with Elco Jacobs' ShiftPWM library for Arduino. This is just a test sketch and one 8-output shift register hooked up to a few of the LEDs in the cockpit:



    More to come soon!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  29. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    You are a braver man than I Gunga Din. Looks like a winner!!
     
  30. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    I finally got all of the cockpit LEDs hooked up together for the first time! I'm now starting to write the control code. This is just a test sketch, but it looks kinda fun:



    This does show up a bit of lightblocking that's needed around some of the screens and around the centre console, so I'll try and do that this weekend.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  31. Clutch

    Clutch Master Member

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    That is absolutely brilliant!
     
  32. darrenp

    darrenp New Member

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    What a fantastic build. Glad I came across it whilst browsing other BSG stuff. I've got the Revell kit, and hadn't heard of paragrafix before. As luck would have it, I'm in the states in a week, so ordered a set from them so its waiting for me at the office when I get there! :) Saves about $25 shipping!

    Can't wait to see the finished item. If mine is half as good, I'll be happy.
     
  33. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Cheers Darren!

    Progress has been a little slow of late, but I have a little bit to share:

    I got some electronics mounted in the nose, and the fuselage sealed up. This is two of the three shift registers and the LEDs that connect to the fibre optics for the dashboard lights:

    11-Photo 23-08-2015 00 54 35.jpg 10-Photo 23-08-2015 00 53 17.jpg

    Made a little hatch using part of the engine nozzle part. This is held on with magnets and allows the panel to be removed for access to the programming header for the arduino, so I can update the code once the model's finished:


    05-Photo 30-08-2015 00 20 27.jpg 04-Photo 30-08-2015 00 20 10.jpg 06-Photo 30-08-2015 00 20 51.jpg 07-Photo 30-08-2015 00 20 55.jpg

    Finally, the wings. 1mm fibre optics inserted for the wingtip lights and glued in with epoxy. Wings sealed up, and then finally fitted to the engine intakes (which I've painted on the inside - easier to mask this when painting the bodywork than mask the body). Engine intakes are now glued to the main fuselage!

    12-Photo 05-09-2015 19 45 40.jpg 13-Photo 05-09-2015 19 58 59.jpg 14-Photo 05-09-2015 20 05 30.jpg 16-Photo 05-09-2015 23 40 35.jpg

    Next steps are completing the landing gear - I'm trying to run wires up them in the least obtrusive way possible for power. The parts need a lot of clean-up, with lots of sink marks, flash etc. I'll also need to scratch-build the catapult hook on the front landing gear. After that, I should be able to get the body sealed up and the painting can begin!
     

    Attached Files:

  34. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Well, I've been a bit lax on the updates, but work has continued on the Viper, albeit slowly. I got distracted by a Bandai AT-ST, some electronic repairs on the JJPrise, and a Revell 1/144 Saturn V that I bought on impulse because I happened to be in the store and it was half price, and told everyone I would just build out of the box but have now spent more than 5 times the kit cost on aftermarket accurising parts...

    The electronics are complete, with the arduino and shift registers packed into the rear engine area, and power running up inside the landing gear, terminating in some brass contacts in the feet. These will contact pins in the base. The programming header is also now in place under the cover I made before, held on with magnets. Pics of the undercarriage to come, but here's some electronics packed and epoxied into a small space...

    Photo 16-10-2015, 15 46 28.jpg

    I've also been working on detailing the engine bay areas, using piano wire and brass tube, again following the reference pics of the full size prop:

    Photo 16-10-2015, 15 57 24.jpg Photo 18-10-2015, 20 50 25.jpg Photo 18-10-2015, 22 25 52.jpg Photo 18-10-2015, 22 44 59.jpg

    Mmmmmmm (too much) primer:

    Photo 18-10-2015, 23 27 07.jpg

    After I cleaned that mess up a bit, I re-primed and gave it all a coat of Alclad II Steel:

    Photo 19-10-2015, 01 27 09.jpg Photo 19-10-2015, 01 27 21.jpg

    And that's all so far! Next job is the avionics bays on the main fuselage and then we'll be nearly ready for paint.
     
  35. JonScott53

    JonScott53 New Member

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    That is absolutely stunning work.
    The attention to detail is amazing, I can't wait to see more.
    Keep up the good work.
     
  36. 19narvik40

    19narvik40 Well-Known Member

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    Damned fine work Hugh, damned fine work indeed.
     
  37. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Thanks guys! I really appreciate it :)

    As promised, I took some shots of the landing gear last night - she looks like whoever was piloting her had a few hard landings and the gear's been bashed back into shape by a frustrated deck chief with a sledgehammer. I'm OK with this, since it's hands on only on Galactica, of course.

    Photo 19-10-2015, 22 56 15 (1).jpg Photo 19-10-2015, 22 56 20.jpg

    Thin wires run up the inside of the gear struts and terminate in these brass pads:

    Photo 19-10-2015, 22 56 07.jpg

    There's a bit of cleaning up to do there, of course. The brass pads will mate with pins on the base (styled to look like hangar deck).

    Last night's job was fitting brass detail parts to the avionics bays. I used a micro-chisel to remove the kit detail and installed the Paragrafix part and a bit more brass tube:

    Photo 19-10-2015, 20 51 04.jpg

    Everything's nicer with paint. This is Alclad II Steel again, with the cross members picked out in Alclad II Aluminium:

    Photo 19-10-2015, 22 54 04.jpg Photo 19-10-2015, 22 54 37.jpg

    A cheeky drybrush with Tamiya flat aluminium and the cables picked out in Tamiya copper:

    Photo 19-10-2015, 23 56 33.jpg

    All these exposed mechanical areas will get some washes and weathering with various things once the overall paint job is finished. Next, I need to "install" the RCS thrusters all over the ship, I don't think just putting black circles of decal on there really does the job...
     
  38. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Quick update - I did some work on the base last night, trying to get the pads on the bottom of the landing gear to contact the power pins (with mixed success...). Anyway, here's a few photos, there's obviously rather a lot of light blocking to do...

    Photo 22-10-2015, 22 53 47.jpg Photo 22-10-2015, 22 53 57.jpg Photo 22-10-2015, 22 54 09.jpg

    None of the base is glued up yet, but the plan is to paint it as hangar deck, and maybe do some piping and stuff along and behind the girder section as if someone'd taken a cross section of the ship somehow...

    Also, I really like this angle...

    Photo 22-10-2015, 23 50 52.jpg

    Major frustration though, the wingtip lights for the port side aren't working. They're fibre optics running from the same LED as starboard, but there's just nothing coming through. I think they've broken inside the wing, there's some red light leaking through the styrene. There's really nothing to do, the whole thing's sealed with epoxy and glued up, and the surgery to repair would be massive. Starboard's going to be the display side, I guess! I may turn the wingtip lights off altogether when displaying with an all-round view, which is the joy of a re-programmable embedded micro-controller!
     
  39. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Update! I've decide to do the RCS thrusters - although the full size prop doesn't have them, I'm modeling a functional ship here, and she wouldn't be able to maneuver without them. I'm using a technique I first saw implemented by JanewayC in her build here, IC sockets for electronics.

    Photo 26-10-2015, 23 46 16.jpg

    Marking out the positions from the Revell drawing (the numbers are me scaling the drawings to the model - they're about 1:1.89):

    Photo 26-10-2015, 22 12 22.jpg Photo 26-10-2015, 22 00 35.jpg

    Drilled out - a 1.8mm bit works perfectly:

    Photo 26-10-2015, 22 58 54.jpg

    And the sockets removed from their plastic support strip and inserted, fixed in with a bit of CA:

    Photo 26-10-2015, 23 14 18.jpg Photo 26-10-2015, 23 51 35.jpg Photo 26-10-2015, 23 51 42.jpg

    These will get a coat of Alclad Jet Exhaust and then masked over before I paint the main bodywork, which I will do next!
     
  40. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Oh, cool, only just over 3 years since my last update on this one. That's fine, right?

    Since last we saw the Viper, I've given the whole ship several coats of primer, and filled and sanded quite a bit. There are a lot of fit issues with this kit, especially concerning around the engines where light can leak out of hundreds of tiny gaps. Some gap filling shims were made from styrene sheet, and I ended up turning the model upside down and injecting resin into the area below the tail fin, to fill the gaps around the top engine. I also got hold of the Green Strawberry photoetch kit to add canopy release, avionics bay and canopy frame details

    The whole thing was then given a coat of alclad steel to provide a base layer for paint chipping:

    Image from iOS (6).jpg

    Followed by masking parts that were to stay steel (engines mainly) and spraying white after a couple of coats of hairspray:

    Image from iOS (7).jpg Image from iOS (8).jpg

    I used Orbital Drydock's paint mask set to mask for the red stripes and registry numbers, and painted these. Unfortunately the hairspray technique didn't really work for me this time, and the white lifted in quite a few places when I pulled the masks off. Weathering will hide the crimes :whistle:

    Time after that for more paint chipping, and the second way the HS technique didn't really work for me. My paint wasn't stuck down enough when I wanted it to be, and wouldn't release when I did want it to! I ended up scraping with various implements and it looks OK, if a bit out of scale.

    Image from iOS (9).jpg

    Decals went on, which really pull this model together, there are so many nice little warning labels.

    Image from iOS (10).jpg

    After setting solution and a flat coat over the decals, time for weathering. I'm trying Michael Rinaldi's oil paint rendering technique for the first time here, applying tiny dots of oil colour where they're needed and then blending them into the surface with a flat brush dipped in turpentine and then almost completely dried off on tissue. It's a technique that gives you a lot of control, especially if you're as good at it as Michael, but I'm quite happy with a first attempt.

    Image from iOS (11).jpg Image from iOS (12).jpg

    I've only done one side so far - here's the clean side vs the dirty side for comparison:

    Image from iOS (14).jpg Image from iOS (13).jpg

    Tonight I'll weather the other side, the top and the bottom, and then it's time to move on to making a base to get power into the model!
     
    Fett_Ish likes this.
  41. Analyzer

    Analyzer Well-Known Member

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    Hey at least you got back to it :)

    Looks great
     
  42. modelerdave

    modelerdave Member

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    Wow. That is seriously impressive. I can't wait to see the finished base as well!
     
  43. HughB

    HughB Active Member

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    Thanks folks! Did a bit more weathering last night...

    Image from iOS (15).jpg Image from iOS (17).jpg

    Image from iOS (16).jpg
     
  44. Analyzer

    Analyzer Well-Known Member

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    552
    excellent work!
     
  45. Jimw100

    Jimw100 New Member

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    18
    This is an awesome idea - did you find different sizes of these sockets for the different size thrusters on the model? I’ve scoured the internet and can only find one size.
     

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