1/10 DeLorean Back To The Future

crackerjazz

Sr Member
Hi guys. I wanted to have a big DeLorean to display with the remote I found off the local classifieds. It's the same model as the movie but with the red PCM label. At first I wanted to gut the radio and maybe make it useable to run the DeLorean but now that I've held the radio in my hands I feel it's too precious to cut up : )

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I struggled with the cutting : )


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crackerjazz

Sr Member
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Drilled out the corners before scoring the windows to make sure the corners don't invite tears later on.

I'm going to try and replicate the A car's reactor and other components by taking some measurements of the Aoshima kit parts and scaling them up as I don't have any other physical references. The cabin details I don't really need.

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I was comparing the shells and noticed that the Aoshima body captures the shape nicely. The 1/10 Aplastics lexan body seems to have missed the slight curvature of the hood, but otherwise I'm happy with its overall shape.

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I'm going to start with the rear deck greeblies.

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Not sure how I'd be replicating these wraparound parts. And they have holes, too, on the 1:1. We'll see. I've been looking at pictures of the big Eaglemoss DeLorean as well -- that is just a thing of beauty.
 

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crackerjazz

Sr Member
At first I used the measurements of the Aoshima, but then I realized the heights of the parts were simplified to make only the upper half of the hoses. The details on the Aoshima are understandably simplified as well so I tried to use photos of the parts where I could.

I figured it may be better to use the actual parts measurements and scale them down to 1/10. Did the Polara hubcap and the body with Jameco heatsinks:


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The turbine engine top part where the yellow lid goes onto:
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crackerjazz

Sr Member
I had to separate the hubcap from the chamber because for some strange reason, the hubcap holes skin over with resin when printing. The first one was a bit easier -- the skin was a thinner film that I was able to cut away while uncured. But on my second print the holes were totally covered. Really strange how that happens when they're open on the 3D model.

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Hopefully, separating the hubcap will correct that. Will have to test some more.

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