1:1 Levitating Jedi Training Remote - First Attempt - UPDATED BUILD WITH FOUND PARTS

Noob Question:

How much 'weight' can that thing 'hold'?

I would assume alkaline batteries is too much.. but Arduino and li-po perhaps?
 
Noob Question:

How much 'weight' can that thing 'hold'?

I would assume alkaline batteries is too much.. but Arduino and li-po perhaps?

It's actually surprisingly strong. I grabbed this card game and stuck it on top. Not only did it support it, it stayed levitating even askew, notice the whole thing is tilted. This box of cards weighs about 10 ounces. I think it would be fine with some smaller size batteries.

I'm guessing the most important thing is it to make sure whatever you put in there is centered and balanced.

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nice!

could maybe add some audio FX and some blinkies too then.. make it randomly up the leds like in the training session/movies.

Got the wheels turning now......what about this........

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Encase this inside a sphere or disassemble it and mount it like I did, now you have a Bluetooth speaker inside. I was thinking about doing something similar, making sure the charging port for the speaker is lined up behind one of the wheel rims on the remote. That way you could remove the rim and plug it in to charge it when needed!
 
not sure about the costs for that? but a BT speaker make its more usable than just a static prop..

however.. for a more 'movie' accurate approach..

I could whip something up using an Arduino Pro-Mini and an DFPlayer (seems the combo of choice as of late!) LOL.. could trigger the leds and audio sounds in whatever pattern we want..
 
not sure about the costs for that? but a BT speaker make its more usable than just a static prop..

however.. for a more 'movie' accurate approach..

I could whip something up using an Arduino Pro-Mini and an DFPlayer (seems the combo of choice as of late!) LOL.. could trigger the leds and audio sounds in whatever pattern we want..

Sounds like a plan!
 
Little more progress on this.......I decided to make resin copies of the model kit cupola piece rather than print them. I made a quick mold and will cast 7 more; here's the first one. These pulls look nicer than what I printed originally and require no prep work except a quick drill out of the center.

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I'll also make resin copies of the gunport and smaller hatch as well since those are the only pieces I don't have multiples of. The only parts that will be 3D printed are the panels around the rims, the hemisphere panels, and the smaller panels above the 8 cupola pieces.

I redesigned the panels that go around the rims by thinning them a bit and removing the integrated wheel pieces since I have plenty of those in the model kit. These prints came out very nice and smooth, they won't need any prep, just some primer.

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Moving along..............
 
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I hate when real life gets in the way of my hobby..........haven't had much time to work on this, but made a little progress. First thing I wanted to do was sand the entire globe, so I went through three stages of grit to make sure the seam line couldn't be visible and the globe got that frosted look. Doesn't look like the seam is gone in this picture, but once I primer this you won't be able to see it, it's completely smooth.

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I started working on the trim pieces as well as some of the model pieces. I heated the half circle trim pieces with a hair dryer and then formed them to the contour of the globe. I'm taking my time with this, want it to look sharp.

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I also finished the molds for the model pieces I don't have multiples of.......

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I wanted to do something different with the rims, I didn't want to put film or paper behind them, so I bought a few of these capsules that you find in the little coin operated toy / candy machines; eight of them was only 2 bucks. I trimmed the top of the capsules down, gave them a light sand, and then glued them to the bottom of the rims. Worked great..........

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I also re-worked the little detail pieces for the top and bottom. I don't know if these are screen accurate, but I saw something similar on the MR prop so I wanted to add them. For my son's globe I just printed them, but for mine I went out and got some small nylon washers, glued one on top of the other, drilled four holes, and then primed them. Looks a little better than the one I printed (on the left). I'm still messing with my printer, trying to learn how to get the best quality prints.

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It's slowly coming along............
 
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Looking great!...still can’t get mine to float lol

For some reason this one is a bit harder to levitate. Yesterday it was being a pain all day, I took a break, and today it levitated perfectly on the first try. The one I bought for my son is a different company, and I have zero issues with that one. But this one likes to test me......

I think the magnet in the base shifts sometimes, and after letting it rest and messing with it, it centers again? Who knows......It's definitely the base with this model though, this globe has no problem working on my son's base and that's a different manufacturer.
 
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For some reason this one is a bit harder to levitate. Yesterday it was being a pain all day, I took a break, and today it levitated perfectly on the first try. The one I bought from my son is a different company, and I have zero issues with that one. But this one likes to test me......

I think the magnet in the base shifts sometimes, and after letting it rest and messing with it, it centers again? Who knows......It's definitely the base with this model though, this globe has no problem working on my son's base and that's a different manufacturer.
I’m thinking I might pick up another to see if that is my issue as well.
 
Soooooo..........I had to take a very long break from this because I've been so incredibly busy, but I'm glad to be working on it again! First and foremost, those of you who've been watching this know I've been using several found parts, but needed a couple extra pieces. I can't thank sjanish enough for his help and incredible parts, they look awesome! The quality is just phenomenal. Compared to the parts I tried to cast, they're night and day. I don't know if he'll be making them again, but if he does, they're a must have for this project. Saved me so much time and they look great! Thanks again brother!

Here's a pile of the hatches he made next to the wheel pieces from an actual kit.........

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Today I was able to mount the tank treads, wheel halves, cupolas, and hatches. Now that those are done, I can primer this and start doing some touch-ups before laying down color.

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Got this primed and base coat of color put on............

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Can't wait to start weathering and adding the rims and other detail pieces. I also have to hit this with some flat clear coat to knock down the shine of the Satin finish some, but works like a charm.............

 
Hey man, I think you tagged me by mistake somehow. LOL I got a notification but when I clicked on it to come here it's got sjanish instead of me. You must've copied from another tagged post or something and changed the name but not the URL / member ID. Just a heads up in case you want to link people to his account.
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Regarding the base, That brand had a batch of bases that shipped with a slightly wrong power adapter, which caused them to be either over or slightly under powered. I dealt with the owner back and forth to get them resolved, so if you're having trouble with that particular one, that may be why. I have some replacement power adapters that although they're rated the same, actually perform differently. Let me know if you want to try and I can send you one of the left overs to see if it works better for you.
 
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