Holy smokes that’s a wicked picture with yoda! Mind if I use that? Apparently “I steal everyone’s photos with out permission and use them as my own”
“There and Back Again; A Mystery Chunk Tale”
- Thread starter BRRogers
- Start date
Holy smokes that’s a wicked picture with yoda! Mind if I use that? Apparently “I steal everyone’s photos with out permission and use them as my own”
The cleanest set out there...
WOWZERS!!! Beautiful!The cleanest set out there...
Go for it!
I've never seen you do that haha!
I love a nice chunky story. so chunkilicious
If you want to remove zinc, or basically any other plated metal from steel use muriatic acid. It can be bought at home depot as PH down, for pools. Have some in a glass container (like a mason jar) and then dip the chunk in there with some tongs or wire. It will strip the zinc without damaging the steel. You can try it on galvanized steel wire which is everywhere if you want to see how well it works. You should only have to dip it for a few seconds. After that you can boil the part in baking soda and water for a few minutes to neutralize whatever acid is left, and then wire brush to clean them up. Make sure not to do the muriatic acid inside, as its somewhat noxious and can rust metal tools if you're in a workshop. I used to keep an orange home depot bucket outside of the forge for cleaning things so that it wouldn't rust anything inside.
It's a gloves only sort of acid, but it works so well for cleaning of zinc coatings that I always have it around. Especially if you're going to be doing welding or something, a quick dip can save you all of the zinc poisoning. Hope that helps!
Are people blaming you for my sins!?
badboibill
Active Member
am i missing something here? we don't even know the make/model of the boot? how does this help anybody?
badboibill
Active Member
am i missing something here? how does this help anybody if we don't even know the make and model of the boot?
Thanks for that, I’ll have to try it!
Most of the zinc related work I’ve done has been related to architectural ironwork, so usually the workpieces are too big to be able to dip as such.
As such, a butane or mapgas torch works well too for me. Get the steel red hot then wire brush and keep the head out of the fumes.
Might depend on what people have on hand as well?
Bryan explains everything, you didn’t read his posts?
Bryan does explain it but let me speak plainly with some of the summarization of info.
Royal Hunter (e.g. Hunter, e.g. Uniroyal, e.g. Gates) wading/Wellington/wellies with a leather sole and studs made between 1955-1980 are what you want.
Daiwa wading boots also seem to have made use of the same studs (presumably from the same underlying British Royal Warrant to the Heathall factory).
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Thanks for the summary Verity Cosplay.
on another note:
It seems like these bright ones can be super blued without removing the coating? Wasn’t aware zinc could be blued!
before and after bluing
on another note:
It seems like these bright ones can be super blued without removing the coating? Wasn’t aware zinc could be blued!
before and after bluing
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Grand Job BRR (& everyone else involved). I'll be keeping my eyes peeled around the charity shops & car boot sales. (Not an intended pun the 'trunk' of a car is called a 'boot' here in the UK.)
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Mouse Vader
Sr Member
If I recall correctly cold blue is acidic & if the plating is fairly thin it will 'eat' through it easily.
Given Royal Hunter was originally and is currently headquartered in Edinburg, Scottish locations probably have the largest prevalancy...
But yes. The UK localities that may not have an online presence are going to be the best likeliest source.
I suspect this is why Anakin Starkiller kept looking for folks to forward post from places like Inverness
(Yes, Dan, I think you and I bumped into each other a couple of times inadvertently whilst hunting).Thank you for the summary very helpful.
Do you guys have any recommendations in terms of how much each pair is worth and how much we should be paying so that we don't drive prices up, like an upper limit? Same for a chunk, what is the fair market value of one piece based on your research? Want to make sure some of us don't get ripped off out there...
I've seen a number of pairs now. Average seems to be around $200-250 USD given their desirability already from the "weird boot collecting community".
Pairs that are mint and unworn (such as the set teecrooz acquired) can go as high as $400+.
It seems the range can be between £80-£200+ depending on condition.
Again, we want to avoid collision on bids. This drives a war and will hurt everyone. Now that the info IS out, a coordinated effort needs to be made or everyone suffers.
I suppose the value of a chunk in the simplest formula would be (price of boots) / 46.
so assuming a $250 pair of boots you get about $5.50 per chunk.
The hip waders run the highest. Market seems to be at £100 to £200 for a quality pair.
(And lets be clear... many of these are functional and hold their value as an excellent-waterproof item)
Other shorter shaft boot range is broader: I’ve seen range from £10 to £200 with a range of tread and/or uppers quality.
I think if anyone sells a perfect chunk for over $15 they’re trying to exacerbate the market.
And anyone who runs the boots up over £200 has gone in far too headstrong.
Those who have begun to sell the studs are selling at price. No more than $10 to make their money back based off of binning the stud quality.
Thanks to those guys for starting it out like that.
(And lets be clear... many of these are functional and hold their value as an excellent-waterproof item)
Other shorter shaft boot range is broader: I’ve seen range from £10 to £200 with a range of tread and/or uppers quality.
I think if anyone sells a perfect chunk for over $15 they’re trying to exacerbate the market.
And anyone who runs the boots up over £200 has gone in far too headstrong.
Those who have begun to sell the studs are selling at price. No more than $10 to make their money back based off of binning the stud quality.
Thanks to those guys for starting it out like that.
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