Recent content by sparkmatter

Update, thanks so much for everyone's help, that went loads better! (Had to censor the license plate because I ended up 3d printing a custom one with my name lol) I have my eye on the bandai falcon next, hopefully that's not too ambitious as a second real go at it haha

If it's changing while it's moving I almost feel like maybe theres a loose wire connected to the thermistor or something?

The "ungroup" button is labelled "split to parts" on my slicer (accessed by right-clicking the object)

I am operating on the assumption that the dye in the stamp will go first because it's applied after the fact and presumably doesn't have a mordant in the same way the fabric's color does... But definitely a very tenuous assumption I wouldn't bet more than 3 quid on, haha

This would be risky but RIT makes a dye remover, you could follow the directions on that (and then redye with olive green after if needed) and *hopefully* whatever stamping process they use will be more volatile than the color in the fabric Although looking at the photos I think the front metal...

Hit 'dowel', resize to the size of your pins, and then just don't print/delete the dowels it generates

Bambu Studio but prusa and orca are functionally the same

Printing helmets is more fun anyway? whyyyyyy :(

That's why I tend to cut big parts apart in the slicer, it has a function to add pinholes quite easily

This may be because I'm someone who watches things 60% for the art/design and 40% for the plot but it felt very star warsy to me, the rigidity of the empire's tailoring and the colors and the scrappiness of the rebel tech and the amount of vintage milsurp and tupperware parts were extremely...

A good alternative to glue for 3d prints with magnets is lowering the holes inside the model by a layer or two and adding a pause in the slicer so that you can put the magnets in before the top layers print (enclosing the magnets in)

I would bet that, it looks too unweathered and uniform

I think there's coatings on the inside of nozzles, don't recommend this at all... Hotends are disposable, if clogs are happening that often the filament may be bad quality (inconsistent diameter, full of manufacturing shmutz, etc) or have absorbed too much moisture from the air

If you go this route- try RIT Synthetic instead of the stain, it's more designed for that sort of thing and as far as I can tell other cosplayers on the internet have wig dyeing instructions with it. Small white knot thingys could also probably be printed with white matte filament at a low layer...

The bottom image is a prime example of something I would usually consider swapping the bar for some 2mm holes in the sides to insert a piece of filament through (for better strength and smoothness)