My New Series Doctor Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

I guess then that would only leave making a cast of some sort from a positive like your finished sign then? I just ask mostly because it would interesting to know how to possibly achieve the raised effect which was more durable for an outside installation.

In a way it reminds me of those old printing plates I think were made from Linotype that were cast out of lead or tin or something in the old days of newspaper printing. I'm not sure these are the actual plates or raised as much as I remember.
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I can't find a shot of exactly what I'm remembering seeing in a printing museum in California, but the new plates were silver that I remember and the type raised pretty much about like they are on yours.

I guess the only way to make a mold would be to have the letters reverse engraved into a plate in some fashion or live with the slight rounding that the smallest CNC bit would leave? If the letters were negatives in a flat plate that would at least leave a cast white field smooth. Which would leave the question what kind of material could one cast that would be durable and translucent? I'm guessing one can't home cast PVC?
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

I guess then that would only leave making a cast of some sort from a positive like your finished sign then? I just ask mostly because it would interesting to know how to possibly achieve the raised effect which was more durable for an outside installation.

In a way it reminds me of those old printing plates I think were made from Linotype that were cast out of lead or tin or something in the old days of newspaper printing. I'm not sure these are the actual plates or raised as much as I remember.


I can't find a shot of exactly what I'm remembering seeing in a printing museum in California, but the new plates were silver that I remember and the type raised pretty much about like they are on yours.

I guess the only way to make a mold would be to have the letters reverse engraved into a plate in some fashion or live with the slight rounding that the smallest CNC bit would leave? If the letters were negatives in a flat plate that would at least leave a cast white field smooth. Which would leave the question what kind of material could one cast that would be durable and translucent? I'm guessing one can't home cast PVC?

There's probably something out there you could cast with. I'd check smooth-on.com to see if they have any recommendations. You'd have your hands full painting the letters I'm sure. Maybe you could have vinyl letters made, but from a really thick vinyl. ?
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

What about making the letters twice as thick, with a recess in the base into which they can sort of interlock? So, say, 1/8" thick letters, to fit into a 1/16" recess on the base that's been laser-cut into the base at that depth? Is that even feasible?

There's probably something out there you could cast with. I'd check smooth-on.com to see if they have any recommendations. You'd have your hands full painting the letters I'm sure. Maybe you could have vinyl letters made, but from a really thick vinyl. ?
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

I purchased more paint today. Was advised there was no need for catalyst in the paint. I think I could have gotten by with 3 quarts, which were $38 and change each, plus the reducer, which I think was $10 per quart or so. I purchased a gallon just to be safe as it's a pretty good trip down to the supply store for me.

I finished painting the top blue earlier today and have set it aside until I paint the inside. Working on the finished sign boxes and have started the first post just now.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

There's probably something out there you could cast with. I'd check smooth-on.com to see if they have any recommendations. You'd have your hands full painting the letters I'm sure. Maybe you could have vinyl letters made, but from a really thick vinyl. ?

I've never seen a CNC machine cutting in real life, only on TV and the only place I can think of that I saw it with any regularity was on that old show "American Choppers" where they were cutting decorative bits and custom wheel blanks, but it seemed to make pretty smooth cuts in metal. I don't know that using a bigger cutting head to chew away the larger blank field areas and then the smallest cutters to do the letters wouldn't be so unacceptable a trade-off to make the letters appear raised up. The texture left depending on the material be it PVC sheets might look okay unless one was right up on it. The only other thing I can think of where I've seen it done is using a router on those man-made counter-top materials on TV to add an eased, decorative edge to them.

As for painting the raised lettering black, well, using a small paint roller with a very thinly loaded coat of paint might do it. I had assumed that something like that had been done on the filming prop until now, but I see that I was wrong.

I guess I'm just brain-storming on a way to make it more durable if the sign was going to be exposed outside through hot summers and cold winters that might bake and freeze off the vinyl lettering over time. Maybe going with metal like aluminum might be better in the 9 or 19th Doctor style. I do really love the back-lit translucent sign idea.

I guess there might not be a better way to do it than you've done though. Which looks fantastic if I haven't said so enough. I think your TARDIS looks to be just about the ultimate of all fan-built TARDISes that I know of.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Brainstorming is good stuff for sure.

I think Primrodo might be able to chime in about how long vinyl letters last outdoors. I know when I looked into it if you get solvent based vinyl, it's made for harsh outdoor environments and should last 7+ years.

Thanks for the nice comment on the build so far.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Brainstorming is good stuff for sure.

I think Primrodo might be able to chime in about how long vinyl letters last outdoors. I know when I looked into it if you get solvent based vinyl, it's made for harsh outdoor environments and should last 7+ years.

Thanks for the nice comment on the build so far.

Thanks for putting up with the questions. The paint looks awesome. Will that be sealed with something to give added protection once it's done, or have you thought that far ahead yet?
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Again, I'm floored by how well this build is going. Really incredible work.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Thanks for putting up with the questions. The paint looks awesome. Will that be sealed with something to give added protection once it's done, or have you thought that far ahead yet?

I have thought about protection and decided anything clear sprayed on would change the look and make it more difficult to fix the expected wear and tear. So, pretty much I figured I'd let it just get more beat up and keep touchup paint handy.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Beautiful! Simply Beautiful! looks bang on and really digging the raised grain. Have you decided weather or not to weather?

As for vinyl, it can last a very long time depending on the thickness. Standard vinyl can last 4-5 years, step up thicker vinyl can go 6-7 and then thicker from that can even go 8-9. Thicker the vinyl, longer it lasts.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

What about making the letters twice as thick, with a recess in the base into which they can sort of interlock? So, say, 1/8" thick letters, to fit into a 1/16" recess on the base that's been laser-cut into the base at that depth? Is that even feasible?

It is possible to have the laser etch into the surface enough to create a depression the letter can fit into. I haven't actually tried it, but I have etched resesses before for other reasons.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Beautiful! Simply Beautiful! looks bang on and really digging the raised grain. Have you decided weather or not to weather?

I haven't decided to weather it. At this point I think I'll be happy to just get it blue on the outside and black on the inside.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

I have been sitting here just staring at the pictures in this thread and trying to find a compliment that will truly do it justice. I think this is it.

When that box is complete, I would not be surprised AT ALL if it DID travel through time and space!
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

I have been sitting here just staring at the pictures in this thread and trying to find a compliment that will truly do it justice. I think this is it.

When that box is complete, I would not be surprised AT ALL if it DID travel through time and space!

Thanks.

Painting continues. Working on the posts now. The entire post gets painted blue.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Painting continues.

I completed the base frame today. It has four coats of paint on it. I have painted the floor insert black and will be putting a flat clear coat on it for protection as soon as I can get one of my two paint containers empty. I plan to put at least 4 coats of clear on the floor. After the black is done, I'll mask it and paint the blue on the part that's seen outside the walls and doors.

I've gone back to the roof and turned it upside down to paint the inside black, deciding to paint the bottom of the boards that sit on the sign boxes blue first, so back to blue for a bit, then masking tomorrow and painting the inside black.

The posts were completed today as well.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

I finished painting the floor today, but when I went to put it on the base, I found the base outside structure boards had moved slightly toward the middle on all sides. It's the kind of frustrating thing wood can do to you when building something and was probably due to painting only the outside of the boards causing it to contract just a little, but since the corners stay fixed, slight bowing happened. So, the only fix was to slightly allow for it by trimming the floor, so tomorrow, I'll get to paint the edges of the floor again.

As I mentioned in planning, I put four coats of clear on the base to protect the black, then masked the black and painted the part that shows blue.

I completed painting the inside of the roof, and with that decided that, and the inside of the walls and doors would not receive clear over the black, which should make it easier to touchup anticipated bruising from transport.

And a bit of work on the windows, light boxes and sign boxes occupied some of my time today as well.

Just one photo today, this is the floor after I masked off the black and painted the edge blue.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Philip - I just want to say brilliant workman ship here man... I can't hardly wait to see this build completely assembled - it will look as good as the NST MkII - Matt Smith hero prop. Did you find the lamp assembly? Keep us posted on your progress and thanks for sharing the stages of this build with all of us.

Cheers,
Jon
 

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