My New Series Doctor Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

1/1/18 As mentioned earlier, this sign making process didn't end up being the final version. I later figured out how they make the sign for the show prop.

While it's too cold outside to finish up my sandblasting, I spent some time on the PTO door sign today. As mentioned before, I'm applying 1/16" thick black acrylic letters. I'm using 2mil thick 3M VHB tape to stick the letters down. I applied one side of it to the back of the black before I cut the letters out, then pull up the other side with very pointy tweezers, place on the white very lightly, adjust the location until I think it's correct, and press it down, which creates an incredibly strong bond. It's tedious work, but I like the result so far.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

A small update with the finished PTO door letters applied.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

If I'd done that, it would look like a 1st grader learning my letters.
:thumbsup
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Looks great, but I have a question; does anyone know how the actual raised lettering is done on the actual BBC prop? I wondered it it was cast in milky resin and the raised letters painted black because it often seems back-lit.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

How much did it cost to get the letter set laser cut? The finished product is absolutely beautiful, and would work as a display piece on it's own.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

How much did it cost to get the letter set laser cut? The finished product is absolutely beautiful, and would work as a display piece on it's own.

It shouldn't cost too much...check your local sign shops., look for one with a laser cutter.


Rebelscum, That's a nice shop you've got there....nice tardis too.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Looks great, but I have a question; does anyone know how the actual raised lettering is done on the actual BBC prop? I wondered it it was cast in milky resin and the raised letters painted black because it often seems back-lit.

There are pictures of broken letters on the BBC props. They did it very much the same way as Philip did it I think.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

A few answers here...

I own a laser cutter, so I did the work myself. It's not but about $25 of cutting work on the letters and maybe $15 on the white. Some effort with the 3M VHB tape. The time / cost would be placing the letters, which is tedious and time consuming.

We do know the Smith PTO sign is backlit with a pretty good clue to how in this photo below from Primrodo where you can identify the two vertical strips of LEDs on the left and right of the panel.

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The photo below is from the promo Smith Tardis taken at the BBC by Tardis builder's member PMC. You can see the broken letter on it that I believe supports the method used.

I also have contact with a fellow that has had access to the Tardis', and he confirmed to me the letters were thin black acrylic, in the 1-1/2mm, but not more than 2mm thickness range, gauged by touching them. This is why I went with 1/16" black.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

I finished sandblasting the Tardis today, completing the top and the very tops of the sign boxes, which I couldn't reach when it was set up last weekend.

Late today I started setting up to paint. I tested a couple of different processes and settled on one that I think is the best.

The sandblasting leaves the soft wood pretty fuzzy. I didn't want to sand them off as that would minimize the strong grain I'm looking for. Instead I used a green Scotchbrite pad first, put on a couple coats of paint and inspected. It was still fuzzy. The fuzzies were easily knocked down with the pad, but then I needed another coat of paint.

On the second try I put on a coat of paint on first, then knocked down the fuzzies, and put another coat on. This ended up best, and is easier than doing it the other way.

Here's a photo of the paint I'm using and have mentioned earlier and following, a sample. This was a photo of my first test as I forgot to take a second test photo. Just looking at the color, it looks to be the right blue and has a slight sheen, which I had hoped for. I won't be putting a clear over the blue, which you'd normally do with automotive paint. If this paint was used on an outdoor Tardis, you'd have to put clear over it as the base color has no UV protection since it's in the clear by design.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

That colour looks perfect for a Smith Tardis. Can't wait to see a final assembled pic!
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Would you happen to have an extra set of letters, so that I could make a sign myself? Not free letters, just an extra set. Not free, mind you, not looking for free, just a set of letters, I'll get the white plastic and apply them myself, if you had an extra set, not free...:lol


A small update with the finished PTO door letters applied.

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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

You wouldn't want the word 'FREE'? That would make for an awkward sign! :p
 
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re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Thanks for the info, Rebel, I'm planning on making a replica of the TARDIS fragment, so it's good to have a price range. Now I've got to see what my local area offers in terms of sign making.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Would you happen to have an extra set of letters, so that I could make a sign myself? Not free letters, just an extra set. Not free, mind you, not looking for free, just a set of letters, I'll get the white plastic and apply them myself, if you had an extra set, not free...:lol

If I can make sign materials avail, I'll let everybody know. For sure, doing the letters without them being marked on the acrylic would be near impossible.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Small update.

I painted the police sign boxes and started the first coat on the top before I ran out of paint. That's about what I thought it would cover, considering my testing. I'll be getting more tomorrow, and be moving on with painting this week.

One thing I discovered, and don't yet know the answer to, is that the paint didn't have a catalyst for it, though it is mentioned in the mixing directions. My auto painter buddy Brent advised it wouldn't be necessary to use, but would make the paint harder after it's applied. I don't really have a feeling for whether this is important to the longevity of the paint, though my feeling is catalyst won't make any difference if something bumps into the soft spruce wood. Catalyst or not, it will still get bruised.

I'll be asking about this at the paint supplier tomorrow.
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Philip I'm wondering what your opinion might be after doing all that lettering about the idea of perhaps having the material that the base sign is made of cut with some some sort of CNC machine so the letters were raised out of the material and then painted? I have no idea what someone with one of those machines charges but might that make the phone sign more durable in the long run? I assume the water jet machine used to cut the windows always cuts through but can't do the same thing that the CNC machines do with bits?
 
re: My New Series Dr Who Tardis Build (image heavy)

Philip I'm wondering what your opinion might be after doing all that lettering about the idea of perhaps having the material that the base sign is made of cut with some some sort of CNC machine so the letters were raised out of the material and then painted? I have no idea what someone with one of those machines charges but might that make the phone sign more durable in the long run? I assume the water jet machine used to cut the windows always cuts through but can't do the same thing that the CNC machines do with bits?

Can't do that as a CNC uses a round cutter and even the smallest one that's practical to use would leave rounded inside corners instead of square ones. And you'd also have trouble getting a transluscent material to finish glass smooth after cutting.
 

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