Got a question and I can't find an answer to it. I am doing my first ever pepakura project and have just started assembly on a Genji helmet. I am using hot glue and I am about 1/5 or so through assembly. I have noticed that there are some slight gaps or maybe glue thicker on some tabs than other, or that there is a bump of hot glue on the outside of the helmet. I've stopped total assembly until I find the answer to this but will this effect me when I go to resin it later? If so, in what way? Do I need to redo the parts I have assembled and use a different glue to get rid of the thick glue on tabs, gaps, glue on the outside of the helmet? I can post some pics if needed. Like I said, this is my first time ever trying this but I want to learn and do it right. Is it worth heating the glue up and try to salvage (this could be a pain and may be more worth it to print out the pieces I've assembled thus far and redo with a different glue. It's all done with cardstock if that helps clear any questions
I'm planning a set of Halo 4 Master Chief armor soon, but I'm nervous of my abilities. What are some good Skyrim/Star Wars/Marvel props I can practice on, without wasting too much ink or paper?
Last edited by pola; Nov 4, 2016 at 1:10 PM.
hello, im semi-experienced in modelling(plastic model kits, legos, ect) but this is the first time ive tried papercraft. ive made three models that im very proud of, but im having trouble printing stuff. ive read 50+ random pages on this thread and i have found a couple posts that have something to do with what im experiencing.
my first print zoomed through the printer and printed only the page number showed up. tried again, same thing, so i did what a suggestion said and changed the settings to print lines clearly but only the lines printed without textures. the model on the screen has textures which i would like to use, but it prints without them.
i saw a question and suggestion on yahoo answers, "in the others settings, set the textures to on" and there is no "textures on/off" setting in the others settings menu.
i was lucky enough that the first models i was doing happened to only be one page per model, and i was able to printscreen and paste to paint to print them that way,
but im gonna try and do this http://www.mediafire.com/file/ax4ts0...Papermodel.rar which is actually 25 pages and using pepakura to print the pages will be much easier and better.
i am not and have not had the black page printing problem.
things that might matter;
printer- kodak aio esp7
regular 8 x 11 printer paper
elmers spray adhesive
using the free version of pepakura
i know that my tools are terrible, but it was 2 am last night when i decided to try papercraft for the first time and they are the best option that i have.
if anyone can give me cheap, better options that will work with papercraft, i would love to know.
if i am given a suggestion for paper types(i doubt ill ever actually be building armors or suits of any kind, so i dont need super heavy materials) that will benefit me when building 1/40 - 1/25 scale vehicles, i will try them.
id also like to know some beginners tips if you would.
i would REALLY like to know why im seeing lines but no textures when printing...does ANYONE know or is this thread dead? cmon...if i printscreen and print that way, it wastes ink and the stuff is way darker than it should be and slightly pixelated. HELP ME PLEASE
In Pepakura Designer (at least in my version), there is an option to turn textures on or off in the OTHERS tab across the top of the screen. If you check this to off, the textures in the 3d and 3d screens will disappear. My point is, if you can see textures on your screen, they are turned on to go to the printing software.
HOLY CRAP i really wish someone would have told me that sooner...i tried the print to pdf thing and WOW it prints 5x better than the way i was doing it...
i just hope that the new prints will fit the current build...id feel bad if i wasnt able to finish it.
sadly, it got to page 18/25 and stopped printing anything, guess it needs a break from printing all that ink. it did this earlier when i printed a bunch of pages. i waited 20 minutes, printed the new stuff and it prints better than i thought it ever could.
is there a way to make the prints less dark though? its less dark than printing through paint screenshots but its still mega dark...id be very happy if someone could find me the snow camo version of the mech, would probably look a lot better and save me some ink.
can anyone point me to some good spider mech papercrafts? i looked at the soviet spider tank from wot and im not impressed.
Adjust your printer settings, they are what was causing the other problems in the first place. You can adjust the properties in your print menus to something with the lowest ink use, like draft. THe settings option will be in that menu, in the manual, and online.
Looking for a Y-Wing Pilot helmet pdo. Is Dungbeetle still around? The files he released on cloud file servers seem to have all expired and disappeared.
You have to place them in the "paper" section to be printed. Otherwise everything outside those pages is ignored.
ok, well if you want, send me the file you have and I'll send you an adjusted file with just those pieces ready for print. send it to email@example.com
Last edited by Teddz; Dec 16, 2016 at 1:01 AM.
Check your email... one of the two files you sent is done... the other is password protected, so I can't edit it in Pepakura Designer.
I currently have a few models I would like to papercraft with decals or logos as separate textures used on a 2D plane floating just about the model itself. Does anyone know how or if it's possible to "merge" these two pieces of geometry in 3DS Max or Blender so that pepakura views them as one and the decal is displayed properly on the model?
First one, you would UV unwrap the model in your modeling software, this will give you a 2d template of the model that you then would use in Inkscape/Photoshop/whatever to add your decals to. That then gets plugged back into the modeling software where you can apply it to get your images on the model, and then you can export the model and materials for Pepakura. If it sounds like a lot of work, it is if you are not familiar with how all of that works. There are other ways to do this right from within the modeling software that could work, but once again it will take a bit of youtubing and tutorials to figure it out if you are new to UV work.
Second one, and this might work a lot better for you if you are only adding a few decals on flat surfaces, is to do it right in pepakura. Once you have your base model in Pepakura, scaled and unfolded, you can manually import images, rescale them, and place them manually on the unfolded 2d templates. In Pepakura, you go into (if I remember right) 2D MENU>IMPORT IMAGE, that'll let you get your logo/decal/whatever into the program. After that, you can relocate it and orient parts to make it print where you want it on the paper templates. This is a workaround that won't help you too much ion curved and complex surfaces, but it's a fast way to do something like adding a label to a can of beer/whatever.
These are not the only two ways to do this kind of thing, these are just two that I've personally done.
You understood me perfectly and these definitely seem like viable options, I think I'll ask around in the Autodesk forum to see if there are any other methods to try. Thank you.
Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has adjustable pep files for the Snake Eyes armour from Retaliation? I know BlackKaos used to have them, but his profile shows he hasn't been active since mid last year.
Hey RPF, I just painted a few pep pieces and I really messed up on some. A gust of wind blew a tiny pebble into the painted surface on one. The paint started to drip on the other piece (I think I may have sprayed too much paint). All of them are primed and wet sanded to 660 grit prior to painting. As of now, I'm waiting for the paint to dry.
Should I sand of the imperfections and start over with the paint? What is the ideal course of action that I should take?
Suggestions are highly appreciated