The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!

After reading some threads on scaling, I have a few questions, please bear with me since I'm trying to learn.
Before printing out a pep file, I need to properly scale it to fit my head. My head is a little bigger than most people (well what can I do) .
I do know the scaling settings are in the 2d Pattern settings, my question is are the Height , Width and Depth settings pertain to the helmet's default size when it was created ? How do I apply my head measurements to fit the scale?
 
After reading some threads on scaling, I have a few questions, please bear with me since I'm trying to learn.
Before printing out a pep file, I need to properly scale it to fit my head. My head is a little bigger than most people (well what can I do) .
I do know the scaling settings are in the 2d Pattern settings, my question is are the Height , Width and Depth settings pertain to the helmet's default size when it was created ? How do I apply my head measurements to fit the scale?

As 89 forever said, all of the dimensions will change equally when you change scale (doubling width will double height/depth/etc.)
Use the point-to point measurement in the 2d edit mode of Pepakura to check the 3d screen distance of the scale you are looking at. They will be in mm. From this you can compare measurements on yourself, for instance ear-to-ear estimating. Then adjust your scale to match what you think will work for you in Pepakura.
 
Hi I'm wanting to make Ebony and Ivory pistols from pepakura and wondered if anyone had suggestions on strengthening pepakura props like guns? With armor and helmets you can fiberglass the inside for extra stength, but would using resin/bondo/etc on the outside of something like a pistol work out?
 
Hi I'm wanting to make Ebony and Ivory pistols from pepakura and wondered if anyone had suggestions on strengthening pepakura props like guns? With armor and helmets you can fiberglass the inside for extra stength, but would using resin/bondo/etc on the outside of something like a pistol work out?

Weapons can be tricky; I use a heavy paper stock when building, and then apply a couple of light coats of resin to the outside. Less resin per coat is better to prevent deforming the piece. After resining, I do one of two things.
If it's a larger piece that has a bit of interior space to work with, I'll actually cut the pep in half and apply fiberglass matting (or cut up cloth) and resin to the inside of each half much like I would on a helmet. Expanding foam can be added as well, but you have to be careful to keep the seam area clean. After the interior is fiberglassed, I fiberglass in tabs (popsicle sticks work) along the inside edge of one half so that half of the sticks are protuding from the inside. After those are hardened, I just dry fit once to make sure it looks good, then apply resin and wrap of mat to the tabs and push the sides together while still wet. Sometimes the mat will try and bunch up, I snip off any excess that might get in the way and just try to get my seam as tight as possible. Once the bond has cured pretty well, the seam can be ground down a little and then bondo'd over to hide it. If expanding foam was already put in the ends, it doesn't hurt to drill a small access hole and spray foam into the join area to further strengthen the seam. Don't go crazy with the foam though; it needs oxygen to expand, and adding a ton will only create a perpetually wet (and heavier) glob of foam in the middle of the pep.

Speaking of drilling access holes, the other method I use is to slush cast the inside. Essentially you're pouring your resin mix into the inside of the pep and then slushing it around everywhere to get an even coat for strength. Super handy on small weapons like pistols. So, apply a couple of coats of resin to the exterior of the pep like above and let cure. Then drill an access hole in the pep (preferably in an inconspicuous place like a pistol's butt). The bigger the hole, the easier it is to pour in resin, just remember you have to fill that hole later. Then just mix up your resin or better yet rondo (resin-bondo mix) and pour it in. You're not filling the pep, just coating the insides, so don't go crazy with the pouring. After it's poured in, stick a piece of masking tape over the hole and start 'slushing' your piece around, rotating it and turning it over. You're trying to get the resin or rondo to coat every inside surface, every little movement helps. I keep a finger over the taped hole to prevent leakage, and also keep masking tape close anyways- sometimes a pep will have holes that leak resin, it's easiest just to throw a piece of tape over it while slushing. Once the hardener starts kicking in, pull your tape off.
I slush twice for strength, it all comes down to strength versus weight. If the access hole is too big to just skim over with bondo, I cut a small rectangle of foamboard that can be dropped through the hole. Poke a hole in the middle of it, thread a bit of string through, and knot it on the other side so it won't pull out easily. I take this little swing-looking piece by the string, apply hot glue or resin to the top of the foamboard, and feed it through the hole. Then it's just a matter of pulling it up against the bottom of the access hole and letting it dry before cutting the string. The 'swing' works great to back even large holes before they are skimmed with filler.
 
Pep scaling...i know i know theres a pep thread..

i was going to post this in the pepakura question thread but it doesnt seem like a very active thread...so i decided i wanna give the IM Mk6 a shot...i got the pep viewer and designer and downladed all the files. shout out to Stealth and robo and everyone else who had a hand in posting those files for everyone, Thanks! Ive got some good knowledge from Looch to get me going as well, thanks buddy! So anyway im just trying to really nail down the scaling process and im a bit confused...Increasing and decreasing by 10% is easy..i use the point to point measuing tool on the 3d image to get a rough idea of MM..Now should i be messing with the indvidual L,w,H, and D? When i increase and decrease the whole thing by 10% the measurements get close, but the idividual L,W,H and D just dont look right..am i over thinking this? anything helps. Thanks everyone!
 
Re: Pep scaling...i know i know theres a pep thread..

if you change the individual stuff, the rest will change automatically. you cant deform the model.

but theres a million threads about this allready. just use the search function.
 
Re: Pep scaling...i know i know theres a pep thread..

Thanks, i noticed when you change one, the rest changed..it just seemed like the measuring point to point tool said one thing and the indviduals were quite a bit different..I searched pep scaling and found some stuff, but i end up searching through a ton of posts and pages to only get some of what i need. thanks tho i appreciate everyone dealing with the new guy!
 
Im not sure if this is the right thread for this so please forgive me if it is.
Does anyone know where I can download pdo files for final fantasy dragoon armor?
 
Hey guys! =D I'm from brazil and i made my first iron man helmet, but i had some problems on the making...
I choose a model that was easy to be built called "Mark helmet by gimppee", and even doing it right i had some problems...like the distance of
splice or some part that didn't had a flip, and i would like to know if that's normal? And if i need to adapt the helmet in the other ways to finish
his making...

Obs: Do i need to worry about the details or just with the shape of the head?

Ty!

Sorry if this is not the right place to post this, please tell me if i need to delete
 
Hey guys, been lurking off and on and finally decided to try my hand at a pepakura costume project (Mark VII). I've got the helmet mostly cut and glued and started digging around for a more detailed tutorial of the start to finish process. What I found was some of the links, mainly Stealths pepakura tutorial, aren't working. I tried searching around and can't find his tutorial even on his new youtube channel. So I come here asking if anyone can't point me to a tutorial that talks about materials and best practice for the cardstock -> bondo -> fiberglass process with at least moderate detail for the steps. (Would be great if Stealths tutorial is simply somewhere else that I wasn't able to find that you can just point me at.)

Thanks!
 
Ok cool, I'm guessing that thickness of paper is ok in a large office printer/scanner ?


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Typically you'll be OK on larger machines, although if they have an envelope thickness setting that helps. I stay with my printer while printing anyways, sometimes it'll just decide to pull multiple sheets through at once even when it's set correctly. Good luck!
 
Ok thank you :) this will be my first attempt at a project, going to attempt the foam route.
I've heard a lot of reference to EVA foam, any recommendations would be fantastic :) I'm based in the UK too, my plan is for either IM MK2 or War machine.... Seeing as there quite popular I thought it would be a good place to start as there are a lot of tips and references on this forum, also I know I'm jumping ahead abit, but am I right in thinking that PVA glue is the best to coat the foam for priming??

Many thanks on input :)


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Ok thank you :) this will be my first attempt at a project, going to attempt the foam route.
I've heard a lot of reference to EVA foam, any recommendations would be fantastic :) I'm based in the UK too, my plan is for either IM MK2 or War machine.... Seeing as there quite popular I thought it would be a good place to start as there are a lot of tips and references on this forum, also I know I'm jumping ahead abit, but am I right in thinking that PVA glue is the best to coat the foam for priming??

Many thanks on input :)


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I wanna say Plastazote, you can check this thread too:
http://www.therpf.com/f24/best-foam-make-costume-where-get-uk-183211/

A lot of different opinions on sealing. I just use Plastidip spray or LET (liquid electrical tape) before priming. I have noticed that I have to test with the LET first to make sure the primer will bond well to it, Plastidip (although pricier than PVA) is just a more convenient choice for me.

If you're not hung up on which suit you build, definitely go with a suit that has a solid pep available and you can follow build threads with first. There are a few good build threads on the WM here, I don't believe as many for the Mark 2. A sure bet is the Mark 4/6, You can find a lot of threads and possibly someone who's built one close to your size. Sometimes that can help on your own scaling issues.
 
Ok thanks mate :)
I'm still in my research stage ATM.
Understanding pepakura etc I'm still reading a lot of people's threads for information I have a mk42 full set and some of robo's files, although stealths war machine looks more like the idea I have in my head of what I can achieve, I'm just going to practice making an IM helmet and have and ornament in the process before committing to buying the materials need to make sure I have the skill to create the quality I want in a budget I can afford, I don't really want to outsource as I want it to be my own. What have you built?


Qualitystreetz- they don't make them like they used too.
 
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