EvoLutionX
New Member
Can be deleted, already found an answer to the question I had :$
The PEPAKURA question thread - PLEASE READ RULES IN FIRST POST!
- Thread starter DaddyfromNaboo
- Start date
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- Tags
- star wars
Thanks so much! I had been using spot putty just for what it was intended. I was mostly curious as to protecting the helmet overall, but primer sealer does sound like a good option since it would cut down the time needed for all the imperfections I have.
Now second question, would primer sealer be able to be worked upon with another material? Nothing extensive, mostly with detail adding? I was going to use a heavy duty epoxy putty, such as magic sculpt, for details such as the rivets and the raised lines on each side of the helmet. If not I was just going to mark the spots and carefully sand just those specific spots till I had made it to an layer that the putty would adhere to. I know this all will be a lengthy amount of work, possibly work I could have saved myself with early on if I had planned accordingly, but I have the patience to make this look the best I can so I don't mind. Like I said earlier, I'm a first timer with this Pepakura method, can't learn anything if I don't make mistakes to learn from right? XD
Thanks so much for the help!!
Glad to help.
In terms of the primer-sealer working with other materials, Your best bet is to just test a small section first. I wouldn't think you'd have any problem with using it over an epoxy putty, since sealing is (of course) one of it's properties. For adding details, scuffing the heck out of those areas first is definitely good to do. The more you are bonding directly to resin (or filler) the better bond you'll get. I have rarely had any problems bonding epoxies to resin or fiberglass if the surfaces are suitably roughed up.
Just to clarify as well, After you get your details pretty well worked out, feel free to switch over to just a sandable primer if you want. That primer sealer is mainly building a wall between your under-materials and your final paint coats, so as long as the paints and primers you use over it are compatible, you should be fine. I like primer sealer because mine is a bit heavier than straight primer, and allows for heavier coats (that help hide imperfections).
In terms of the primer-sealer working with other materials, Your best bet is to just test a small section first. I wouldn't think you'd have any problem with using it over an epoxy putty, since sealing is (of course) one of it's properties. For adding details, scuffing the heck out of those areas first is definitely good to do. The more you are bonding directly to resin (or filler) the better bond you'll get. I have rarely had any problems bonding epoxies to resin or fiberglass if the surfaces are suitably roughed up.
Just to clarify as well, After you get your details pretty well worked out, feel free to switch over to just a sandable primer if you want. That primer sealer is mainly building a wall between your under-materials and your final paint coats, so as long as the paints and primers you use over it are compatible, you should be fine. I like primer sealer because mine is a bit heavier than straight primer, and allows for heavier coats (that help hide imperfections).
Kenneth Terry
New Member
I am a Mac user and would love to be able to build my son a replica Iron Man Armor. Are there any programs available so I might be able to find reliable resources for pepakura.
Snarkticon
Well-Known Member
Re: Any Atomic Robo pep files out there?
I second this question ... I'd love to do an Atomic Robo costume, possibly out of foam using pepakura. If anyone has any pep files or 3D model files, please let me know.
I second this question ... I'd love to do an Atomic Robo costume, possibly out of foam using pepakura. If anyone has any pep files or 3D model files, please let me know.
FusionFilmsHD
New Member
I am looking for a Iron Man Mark 2 pepakura and was wondering if anyone could help me out thank you.
Sam, you'll be fine. Make sure that your conversion is right for paperweight though. If I remember (just back from vacation), you should be fine. The heavier the stock, the better, but also more difficult for resin to soak (no worries). When it comes to cutting out you pepakura, score all your fold lines and make sure you are cutting deep enough for sharp clean (at least) 90 degree folds.
The thicker the paper the better, but by nature Pepakura building (and even the software depending on settings) relies on the natural flexibility of the material you are using to create complex curves in a 3 dimensional environment. A4 beats the sh*$#&t out of our American standard paper, purely by your extra square inches. Wait, sorry, extra centimeters.
Kryro
Well-Known Member
I have a couple of questions, that MAY have been asked on this thread already, but I didn't want to look through 54 pages.
So anyway, ive currently just finished pep-ing an ironman helmet and it looks really good and accurate already at the moment, I will soon be applying a resin coat to harden/stiffen it. And inside will probably be Fiberglassed or Rondo-ed - I was just wondering....
1) Is it Necessary to apply a Body Filler coat to the outside?
2) Will primer work over the plain resin?
OR 3) Should I resin coat the outside, Sand/file down to the perfect shape, and then resin OVER that?
also (last one I promise) - 4) if I "Rondo" the inside of the helmet, does that mean I can file away right down to that layer - thinking more about the lip around the base of the helmet
Answers will be Greatly appreciated, Thanks
So anyway, ive currently just finished pep-ing an ironman helmet and it looks really good and accurate already at the moment, I will soon be applying a resin coat to harden/stiffen it. And inside will probably be Fiberglassed or Rondo-ed - I was just wondering....
1) Is it Necessary to apply a Body Filler coat to the outside?
2) Will primer work over the plain resin?
OR 3) Should I resin coat the outside, Sand/file down to the perfect shape, and then resin OVER that?
also (last one I promise) - 4) if I "Rondo" the inside of the helmet, does that mean I can file away right down to that layer - thinking more about the lip around the base of the helmet
Answers will be Greatly appreciated, Thanks
I have a couple of questions, that MAY have been asked on this thread already, but I didn't want to look through 54 pages.
So anyway, ive currently just finished pep-ing an ironman helmet and it looks really good and accurate already at the moment, I will soon be applying a resin coat to harden/stiffen it. And inside will probably be Fiberglassed or Rondo-ed - I was just wondering....
1) Is it Necessary to apply a Body Filler coat to the outside?
2) Will primer work over the plain resin?
OR 3) Should I resin coat the outside, Sand/file down to the perfect shape, and then resin OVER that?
also (last one I promise) - 4) if I "Rondo" the inside of the helmet, does that mean I can file away right down to that layer - thinking more about the lip around the base of the helmet
Answers will be Greatly appreciated, Thanks
1) Filler isn't necessary, depending on the quality of finish you want. It is (in my opinion) the hardest part of pepping a piece, but it is also (along with a good paint job) where the most quality can be added to a pep.
2) Primer or primer-sealer will work over resin. It's a good idea to scuff the surface first to allow your primer to adhere better, even if only with a Scotch-brite pad.
3) (and 4, sorta) Any time you sand through your paper layer, you can have problems with the paper 'pilling', creating a ragged edge that will need filler (or a lot of primer) to cover. I do everything I can to avoid sanding through my base, but when it does happen I recoat the area very thinly with Bondo and then carefully sand it back down to shape. After you've reinforced the inside (fiberglass matting, rondo, whatever technique), I would just lay a heavy primer coat on the outside. It'll help you determine where your problem areas are, and you ca decide from there how much finish work you want to put into the piece. If you do Bondo the outside, remember that the less you put on, the less you have to sand off. That is the number one problem I see on the site when it comes to finishing- people that put WAY TOO MUCH bondo on.
Anyways, hope this helps you out. Good luck with your project.
Kryro
Well-Known Member
laellee thank you very much, that was really helpful
However as I was about to start my resin coat, I noticed this little hiccup that im not entirely sure how it happened, but how would I fix this:
The gap between the 2 sections would need to be filled and shaped.... would I use the body filler for this too?
Was that a REALLY noob-y question
The helmet will be held together by magnets also, if that adds any kind of I dunno :s - #newatthis
However as I was about to start my resin coat, I noticed this little hiccup that im not entirely sure how it happened, but how would I fix this:
The gap between the 2 sections would need to be filled and shaped.... would I use the body filler for this too?
Was that a REALLY noob-y question
The helmet will be held together by magnets also, if that adds any kind of I dunno :s - #newatthis
Last edited by a moderator:
That looks like a pretty wide gap, Bondo could be used but I wouldn't for a gap that big. If you can, I would close the gap using a tape on one side, and then 'freeze' it into place with resin on the other side. After it cures, you can pull the tape off and then continue resining. Another option is to resin and fiberglass the entire helmet in one piece, and then dremel it into pieces after you're done. That can be a hassle to get a clean seam cut depending on what you're using, though.
Either way, try and close that gap up first with temporary taped areas or whatever else you have available, then resin it up. I'd be worried that just filling the gap in with filler would also look screwy later, and also cause other problems to have a clean connecting surface between the pieces. You can still use bondo for imperfections and to fine-tune your edges, but the less the better.
I've always waited to install magnets after all my fitting and filling is done. Then I drilled out holes to install them in flush, and epoxied welded them in. Be careful using rare earth magnets (neodynum) too, I would only install a couple at a time, testing the holding power. I installed too many magnets on my first helmet, and the faceplate was nearly impossible to pull off without both hands clawing at it, mucking my paint finish up too.
Either way, try and close that gap up first with temporary taped areas or whatever else you have available, then resin it up. I'd be worried that just filling the gap in with filler would also look screwy later, and also cause other problems to have a clean connecting surface between the pieces. You can still use bondo for imperfections and to fine-tune your edges, but the less the better.
I've always waited to install magnets after all my fitting and filling is done. Then I drilled out holes to install them in flush, and epoxied welded them in. Be careful using rare earth magnets (neodynum) too, I would only install a couple at a time, testing the holding power. I installed too many magnets on my first helmet, and the faceplate was nearly impossible to pull off without both hands clawing at it, mucking my paint finish up too.
Tristan Payne
New Member
sorry for a stupid question but, i have no idea on what angles are needed for the helmet I'm trying to make (my 1st project). from all of these pictures I see they seem to be very round and symmetrical. how are you doing that?
Not sure I understand what you're asking. Assuming that you are using a downloaded .pdo file, are you working in paper pep, or foam? In regular paper pep building, all of those extra folds that are needed on individual pieces help to give the illusion of a curved surface. The pep sheets will have all of your fold and cut lines marked, so the pieces are forced into those round shapes as you connect pieces together. If you make sure you are matching up tabs evenly and centered on the edge numbers, the symmetry will work itself out pretty close.
Tristan Payne
New Member
ok, thank you i was putting too much thought into it, and yes i am making it out of foam. all these pieces are almost over-whelming.
pola
Active Member
does anyone know why the template. outside the paper? i'm noob in pepakura.
why should i do with this? is it okay if i go straight print the template?
your help will be greatfull. sorry if my english bad
View attachment 188143
Hi Becks, this template was made for building a foam armor, that is why there are some pieces outside the pages.
You only need to print the pages, and transfer them to the foam.
Hope it helps.
Best regards from Argentina...
Oww..i see..thanks for your help pola..
