i bet modge podge would work well too.
modge podge - Google Product Search
I use polyurethane spray.
hey guys, once again i must apologizes for my ignorance as well as possibly posting this to the wrong section of the forum (i still don't have access to an offtopic section yet or i would have asked there)
anywho my problem is this... I've been printing out pep files and putting them together but its so damn hard to do because i can't figure out how to get the tabs to display numbers (like tab 52 should be glued to tab 52 or whatever) I've just been using the preview window and mousing over tabs and following the red line to see which tabs correspond with each other. i know there has to be better easier way.
can anyone please show me how to make the numbers pop up? i do have pep designer as well as viewer, so i would imagine i have the necessary tools to make this happen.
at any rate, feel free to make fun of me. i appreciate any assistance provided.
In pep viewer go to View, then click Show Edge ID. In designer it's 2d menu --> Show Edge ID.
thank you very much. i must have clicked that a hundred times and never saw any difference. i guess i was just too zoomed out and never thought to really bring it in tight to see if anything was changing. *bangs head on desk*
If the Edge ID font size is set too small it'll display on screen, but the numbers won't print off with the pattern pieces. In Pep Designer 2 it was if the font was less than 6 or 8, I believe.
I can verify that Designer 3, at least, prints jut fine with the font set to 5. I don't think I ever tried to change it in previous versions.
OK, if anyone gives a hoot...I've implemented a very basic non-image file storage service. It'll currently only accept PDO, PDF, and ZIP files (trying to keep it limited to papercraft-oriented stuff.) It should be pretty self-explanatory.
So, if you're at all inclined: Paper Iron Man
Just wanted to throw this in here as its a useful tip for anyone who is fiberglassing their pep parts, instead of using fiberglass cloth I used regular kitchen paper towel and brushed the resin on to that, it cured solid just as cloth would normally, just a small tip there to hopefully help anyone save a few coins.
i was wondering, ive been taping for almost a week now and havent folded the first thing, but my helmet's taking shape. am i doing something wrong?
ps. thanks commander cody, i'll try the papertowels. i have a crap ton of fiberglass chop mat though. this time around is 100 percent expirementation
Last edited by themanwoaname; Jun 28, 2010 at 5:55 PM.
As long as you're achieving the proper end shape, there's no hard and fast rule that says you actually have to fold on every marked line. Lots of curves on the helmet, so it lends itself to more bending than folding. You'll see on other pieces that a sharp fold is absolutely required to make the proper angles and such. It all depends on the model.
So no, you're not doing anything wrong at all if it looks right to you!
whew! thanks! i like that its coming together so quickly. thats also probably why im not sure im doing it right.
Whats the best weight of card to use for peping ?
As Paw said, 110lb/200gsm is pretty much the standard for most stuff. I also use 67lb/148gsm for pieces that, for various reasons (and this is kind of an experience thing) tend to work better with slightly lighter stock. Small, intricate items such as detail parts are sometimes much easier to fold with the lighter stuff. It's all personal preference though, and you'll just have to experiment a little to see what works best in a particular situation.
Having said that - definitely use the 110lb/200gsm for any major assembly, hands down. Anything lighter will be WAY too floppy when it's all put together.
ok, I am trying to scale the Iron Man suit in Pepakura Designer 3. I am changing the scale to 26.108 and I keep getting the error message
"specify 1-2000 for assembled size" any clue what I am doing wrong? thanks in advance
What is polyurethane spray?
And finally, I'm doing a Pred Bio with cardstock and white glue. If I was to put Super Sculpey over that and bake it at a very low temp, would the glue melt and cause the piece to seperate? I'm gonna do a test run, but if someone knows for sure it won't work, I'll save my Sculpey.
White glue melts at a fairly low temperature, although I don't know specifically what that temp is.
I build model rockets out of paper as well, and one of techniques to rolling a perfect body tube is to coat one edge of the paper with white glue, let it dry, roll it to the desired diameter, and then go over the seam with a clothes iron. The heat from the iron melts the glue and fuses the paper.
You could always do a test - just glue some paper scraps together and bake them for a little while. Preferably at a very low temperature and with a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
is it possible to add colour to the parts in pepakura designer?
Last edited by BadBoyHouse; Jul 10, 2010 at 4:46 PM.
resoning is pretty easy, even I can do it! Fiberglassing is a tad more involved but not mind boggling just take your time and you can even do it in stages. Now bondoing on the other hand I have no advice at all since i suck so terribly bad at it. But to answer your question at bondo stage yes you can sand re-bondo (or w/e you use to harden it ie. joint compound, bondo, etc) then sand, and repeat if needed.
I wish I could just pep a helmet, strengthen and then apply a thin coat of clay to shape it......
Edit : yeh I think I took care of the problem.
Last edited by _TiKi_; Jul 11, 2010 at 8:18 AM.