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  1. JMChladek's Avatar
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    Feb 20, 2010, 8:24 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build Sign-Up Thread - all experience levels wanted #76

    All good points. I've done space related models for years and there isn't really much about it that is different from other forms of plastic models. Only tricky bit is if one wants to get accurate, it typically means some form of scratchbuilding, or at least parts modification. It is very rare that a model can be done OOB and accurate. Although there are happy mediums in the center.

    As for my cement of choice, I go with Ambroid Proweld. It is not as hot as Tenax, but it does the job in a similar fashion. Plus, right now I can acquire Proweld while Tenax is either not in production right now or worse (I work at an LHS and one distributor lists it as discontinued, no confirmation as to if that is really the case or if a new batch just hasn't been produced yet). Tamiya liquid cement is apparently similar to Tenax as well.

    Filler depends on the job, but for small areas I tend to go for gap filling CA glue (usually Bob Smith IC-2000 rubber toughened CA glue, black in color so I can see what I am sanding). Large areas typically demand something stronger, so I use either Apoxie Sculpt or Milliput. I also have a couple bottles of Gunze Mr. Dissolved Putty for very light filling applications (sort of between Mr. Surfacer primer and a paint).
  2. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Feb 20, 2010, 9:43 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build Sign-Up Thread - all experience levels wanted #77

    Hey Marcus,

    For styrene, I like Tamiya thin cement and ambroid pro-weld. The tamiya has a brush applicator and I use a touch n' flow needle applicator for the ambroid. Mostly when I'm trying to get in a tight spot. The tamiya is my first go-to glue.

    I use CA for multi-media builds, like attaching PE to styrene or resin. My new favorite CA is Guerilla Glue brand. It bonds in seconds, so no longer having to hold two pieces together. Of course, I always have a big bottle of kicker on hand, for instant bonds. Dab a bit on one piece, put CA on the other and when the two touch - instant bond. For resin-resin bonds or large resin to styrene, I prefer 5 minute, two-part epoxy.

    For fillers, it depends on the material and the type of filling. A small gap in styrene, I use CA. For larger gaps, I'll soak a piece of styrene strip in thin cement and work it in to the gap. Since it's styrene, it bonds with the surrounding areas and sands the same, so it becomes invisible once it's finished. For deep scratches (from sanding or scraping), I use Gunze Mr. Surfacer 500 and do clean-up with Mr. Thinner (which is just a styrene-safe lacquer thinner). For deep gouges and pits in styrene, I make my own filler. I cut up some sprue into a small glass bottle (like an old paint jar) and add enough amroid to cover it. Wait a while for the ambroid to melt the sprue and you have your own supply of liquid styrene. When you brush it on though, you have to work quickly as the ambroid will evaporate out and the stuff will harden.

    Resin sort of has it's own set of "rules" for filling. For the errant, little air hole, just a drop of CA is all you need. Give it about a half hour and then sand it smooth. For larger divets, it's best to mix it with talcum powder as it gives the glue added strength and density. If it looks like the piece was hit by bird shot, 3M acryl-blue is your best bet. It's like bondo spot glazing putty, but better.

    Now, if you need to rebuild detail or sculpt detail, Aves apoxie sculpt and Milliput white are going to be your best bets.

    Now, a primer on primer. If you don't have a lot of micro detail to worry about, the $1 stuff from wal-mart is fine. Or if you can't get that, any spray can primer will work. They tend to be a bit thick, even in fine mist coats, so they will obliterate fine detail. If you do have a lot of fine, engraved lines and details, I love PolyScale undercoat. It's extermely fine and does a beautiful job of hiding sanding scuffs but leaving all panel lines and details, intact.

    Pre-shading is an easy, effective technique for adding depth to any paintjob. In between the primer coat and the top coat, use your airbrush to paint a thin, black line, follwing all the panel lines. It's a very sublt effect, but you notice it. It's one of those things that you can't quite put your finger on, but you see the difference between a build that has it and one that doesn't. Here's my B-17 where I pre-shaded the panel lines



    It's hard to see, but you can see tonal variations along the panel lines.

    Future - good for two things; canopies and decals. Got glass that you want crystal clear? Dip it in Future and let it cure. Lay the dipped piece on the thinnest edge you can, on a paper towel. Future is self-leveling and the paper towel will help wick the excess Future. Cover it with something so dust doesn't get in it while it's curing. If you do screw it up, soak it in windex (with ammonia) and start over.

    Decals adhere best on a gloss surface. So your best bet is to either give the entire build a coat of Future, or apply Future where the decals are going to go. Then, once the decals have cured, seal with another coat of Future. Then if you're building something with a matte finish, you can spray your favorite flat coat after the Future has fully cured (I like to wait a week, just to be sure).

    And another word on decals; if you have a decal that has to go on a multi-contour surface, invest in some micro sol and micro set. Use the solution to soften the decal and the set to pull it down on top of the detail. If done right, it will look like the decal was painted on.

    Take a look at the closest Hinomaru - it's a decal, I promise




    Anyway, if you have any more questions, feel free to ask.

    -Fred
    Last edited by Gigatron; Feb 21, 2010 at 3:03 PM.
  3. RPF Premium Member Hotshot's Avatar
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    Feb 21, 2010, 2:01 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build Sign-Up Thread - all experience levels wanted #78

    Dang gig, that post is like a years worth of fsm!
  4. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Feb 21, 2010, 8:11 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build Sign-Up Thread - all experience levels wanted #79

    Hotshot said: View Post
    Dang gig, that post is like a years worth of fsm!



    I think I joined in Jan. of '07, so it's more like 3 years of FSM

    It's funny how much stuff you can keep rattlin' around in your head.

    -Fred
  5. vistaVision's Avatar
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    Feb 24, 2010, 5:00 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build Sign-Up Thread - all experience levels wanted #80

    The UPS guy just dropped off a huge box from Tower Hobbies. I'd ordered the 1/12 scale MRC/Atomic City Mercury capsule kit, and a bunch of supplies that I was running low on. It's like Christmas! I've downloaded the entire NASA Mercury Spacecraft Familiarization Manual and have a set of drawings coming from RealSpace Models. Now maybe a trip to Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry. Scott Carpenter's Aurora 7 is on display.

    This model is big and appears to be very well engineered. I'll get some pics up when we officially start.

    Marcus
  6. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Feb 28, 2010, 9:42 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build Sign-Up Thread - all experience levels wanted #81

    One more day, boys and girls



    I started removing the first bits from the sprue and dry fitting. Looks like I may have to re-arrange some of Special Hobby's instructions, as some of them seem to be way out of order.

    -Fred
  7. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 1, 2010, 8:14 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #82

    This is it, ladies and gentlemen - START YOUR ENGINES.

    Remember - plenty of pics, WIPs and tips - and don't be afraid to ask questions.

    -Fred
  8. modeleers's Avatar
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    Mar 1, 2010, 8:34 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #83

    Tally Ho!!! - the Build in ON!
  9. tgreco's Avatar
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    Mar 1, 2010, 9:48 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #84

    are we posting everything in this thread?

    also, could we ask a mod to sticky this?
  10. LizardJedi's Avatar
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    Mar 1, 2010, 10:31 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #85

    Well, here is where I'm at.... cutting open the plastic wrap!



    Thats what my kit looks like. And my wonderful tie-dye bed sheets that aren't the best backdrop ever...

    Lucky for me, the windows on this thing are VERY small. So I don't have to do a ton of intricate cockpit work ('cuse you ain't seeing it).

    Now... just to find the time... and the workspace...
  11. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 1, 2010, 10:42 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #86

    tgreco said: View Post
    are we posting everything in this thread?

    also, could we ask a mod to sticky this?
    We are indeed posting everything here.

    We could try getting a mod to stick it (the thread, not the other thing ). Does anybody know if there is a General Modeling moderator. I'll see if I still have any contacts in the Mod Squad and maybe we can get something done.


    Liz, that looks like it should a fairly fun kit. I wonder why they attached the wings but not the elevators? Some weird decisions they make.

    I've been plugging away at my kit; I hope to post pics tomorrow.

    -Fred
  12. LizardJedi's Avatar
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    Mar 2, 2010, 12:21 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #87

    Woohoo, stickified!
  13. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 2, 2010, 7:34 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #88

    LizardJedi said: View Post
    Woohoo, stickified!

    Yup, a big thanks to Art Andrews, for doing this for us

    -Fred
  14. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 2, 2010, 10:16 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #89

    ok, as promised here are some pictures

    First up, the fuselage halves. For scale, that's a 16" ruler in the middle. The kit supplies resin dump tubes, but they mostly break. So on the bottom half, I substitued brass tubing. It's a shade larger than the resin tubes on top, but infinitely stronger.




    A close-up of the Washburn Observatory's Star Tracker camera system. This is completely scratchbuilt. From cutting open the panels to designing the cameras. The doors are just in place for the shot, not attached yet. While flipping through the book Hypersonic, I saw a picture of the Star Tracker and knew I wanted to add it - and voila.





    This is the ejection seat and cockpit tub. The cutout in the right hand side of the tub was going to be for wiring details - before I realized that the seat completely blocked it and wouldn't be visible after it was built. The PE pieces on the ejection seat were last minute scratchbuilt details I decided to add. They're supposed to be the hinges for the stabilizer wings. The only photo I had was a small, blurry picture, so I guessed as best I could.




    And finally, the landing gear and bay. There was absolutely no detail in here - thank God for primeportal.com. I added internal structures and the piston that opens the bay door, as well as some prominent wiring. The insulation sheet is just made from tinfoil that I scrunched up real tight and then spent 10 minutes unfolding again . They styrene bits on the oleo are scrathbuilt details I added. There's only one picture of these things, so it's a guess as to what they look like unfolded or what they do.




    Next up, trying to figure out how I'm going to paint the main IP. This thing has about 42,000 buttons - all of which are of a contrasting color to the main fascia. I think I'll paint it black, for the buttons, overcoat with the correct blue/grey and then sand the high points to reveal the black - see you all in 6 months .

    -Fred
  15. JMChladek's Avatar
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    Mar 2, 2010, 2:26 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #90

    There will likely be a delay before I get started as I want to finish my Moonraker stack first. But, I haven't done any work to my M2-F2 yet, just popped the pieces off the vac sheet. However, I may start with the biggest lifting body of them all, Shuttle Enterprise (it qualifies for my collection since the body flap and rudder/speedbrake designs were an offshoot of lifting body testing). Plus, I want see if I can build it with a tailcone, as it appeared from its first drop test. Model kit used will be the Revell orbiter.
  16. PHArchivist's Avatar
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    Mar 3, 2010, 7:06 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #91

    Cool...!

    Orange, beautiful orange...



    With some decals:

  17. PHArchivist's Avatar
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    Mar 3, 2010, 7:08 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #92

    But I made a critical, non-recoverable error. See the black square? It was after I secured the decal that I realized there was panel line for it - you can see the panel line under the decal.

    So both the square and the insignia are out of position.

  18. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 3, 2010, 9:03 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #93

    That interior looks good, Rob! Too bad about the decal - I do the same crap all the time. Usually, it comes from following the vague instructions and then seeing how it was supposed to be on the real deal.JMC, don't worry about the delay - we have until August 31st.-Fred
  19. PHArchivist's Avatar
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    Mar 4, 2010, 8:19 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #94

    Gigatron said: View Post
    That interior looks good, Rob! Too bad about the decal - I do the same crap all the time. Usually, it comes from following the vague instructions and then seeing how it was supposed to be on the real deal.JMC, don't worry about the delay - we have until August 31st.-Fred
    That's exactly what happened, Fred. The instructions sheet didn't show the molded in panel line, and I was clueless enough not to notice it at first.

    My only recovery option would be to sand off the decals, repaint (which may not be so bad since I can mask per panel lines, and just paint the one section), and add new decals.

    I still have two of the insignias on the original decal sheet. I could copy and print these onto a new blank decal sheet and hope the coloration is rich enough and correct.

    Or I could just buy another kit to get more decals!
  20. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 4, 2010, 9:02 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #95

    PHArchivist said: View Post
    That's exactly what happened, Fred. The instructions sheet didn't show the molded in panel line, and I was clueless enough not to notice it at first.

    My only recovery option would be to sand off the decals, repaint (which may not be so bad since I can mask per panel lines, and just paint the one section), and add new decals.

    I still have two of the insignias on the original decal sheet. I could copy and print these onto a new blank decal sheet and hope the coloration is rich enough and correct.

    Or I could just buy another kit to get more decals!

    There has to be some company that makes a national insignia decal sheet in the correct size. Heck, you might be able to contact Pegasus and they might even hook you up.

    -Fred
  21. PHArchivist's Avatar
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    Mar 4, 2010, 9:15 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #96

    That's a good point. I did try to find an outlet for Pegasus, but couldn't (probably didn't look far enough).

    But yeah - that insignia is so common that even at that scale, it likely out there somewhere.
  22. Gigatron's Avatar
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    Mar 4, 2010, 11:17 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #97

    Hey Rob,

    I put out a call to the guys at FSM. If anyone is going to know about available decals, it will be these guys.

    I'll let you know if I hear anything back.


    P.S. How big are the N.I. decals, in inches/mm?

    -Fred
    Last edited by Gigatron; Mar 4, 2010 at 12:22 PM.
  23. vistaVision's Avatar
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    Mar 4, 2010, 8:37 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #98

    PHArchivist said: View Post
    My only recovery option would be to sand off the decals, repaint (which may not be so bad since I can mask per panel lines, and just paint the one section), and add new decals.
    Hi Rob,
    Did that decal get a clear-coat over it yet? If not, you should be able to remove it, maybe even without mucking up the paint. it might lift off with masking tape (could lift your paint too), or try some Micro-Sol (prolonged use of that might also soften the paint, so be careful. I've also taken decals off with careful wet-sanding.
  24. PHArchivist's Avatar
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    Mar 5, 2010, 8:27 PM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #99

    No clear coat yet, Marcus, so that may be a "go".
    Last edited by PHArchivist; Mar 5, 2010 at 8:40 PM.
  25. RPF Premium Member
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    Mar 6, 2010, 5:49 AM - Re: First Ever Official RPF Group Build - IT HAS BEGUN... #100

    Let the fun begin! Thanks for doing this, as I have been way to dormaint lately.

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