Realistic Aluminum paint finish options?

GF

Sr Member
I'm working on a full size R2D2, the dome is real metal aluminum but all the vents, holo projectors, shoulder hubs and small parts are cast resin, super clean casted directly off aluminum masters, what would be my best paint options to achieve a realistic metal aluminum finish?

GFollano
 
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I'm working on a full size R2D2, the dome is real metal aluminum but all the vents, holo projectors, shoulder hubs and small parts are cast resin, super clean casted directly off aluminum masters, what would be my best paint options and technique to achieve realistic metal aluminum finish?
I did like the duplicolor car paint finish, I need a aluminum color that doesn't have any metallic flakes in it.

GFollano


I have a Rocketeer replica rocket pack that i sprayed with Krylon Short Cuts. Now, sounds cheap but the paint has a unique quality that I have found in no other spray paint, you can buff shine it to an aluminum gloss with an old t-shirt and some rubbing alcohol. Go light on the alcohol so you don't eat through your coatings too bad. Lastly, it does not have a thick build up when spraying multiple coats so it holds details (and imperfections) perfectly. Try it!
 
I have a Rocketeer replica rocket pack that i sprayed with Krylon Short Cuts. Now, sounds cheap but the paint has a unique quality that I have found in no other spray paint, you can buff shine it to an aluminum gloss with an old t-shirt and some rubbing alcohol. Go light on the alcohol so you don't eat through your coatings too bad. Lastly, it does not have a thick build up when spraying multiple coats so it holds details (and imperfections) perfectly. Try it!


Thanks for the reply,

Many stores here carry Krylon but never heard about Krylon Short Cuts, I will try it out. Does it hold the shine and dries properly? some silver paints seems to always stay sticky to the touch.

GFollano
 
I know Model master has buffable metalic paints(aluminum,stainless steel,magnesium,titanium,etc,etc) as well as S&J spray metal and there are others I just can't think of right off the top of my head.
 
I have a Rocketeer replica rocket pack that i sprayed with Krylon Short Cuts. Now, sounds cheap but the paint has a unique quality that I have found in no other spray paint, you can buff shine it to an aluminum gloss with an old t-shirt and some rubbing alcohol. Go light on the alcohol so you don't eat through your coatings too bad. Lastly, it does not have a thick build up when spraying multiple coats so it holds details (and imperfections) perfectly. Try it!

Do you have a picture of your pack. I would love to see a picture of it, so I can use it as a reference when I finally build mine
 
Hey Gf I am also building an R2 also with an aluminum dome. Most parts are now aluminium but my HPs were originally resin and I used the model master buffing metalizer. When I first painted them they really looked the part. Then I clear coated and it looked not nearly as good. I did not use the clear coat that testors sells for this line of paints so perhaps that is what screwed it up. If their is a way to seal those up without dulling down the finish I would recommend them. A friend of mine (who manages a paint store,so knows a thing or two about paint) thought it was a metal part until he touched it,and mentioned he had never seen such a realistic looking finish. Then he asked why it was "powdery" so I sealed and consequently messed it up.
 
I know that some of the Model Master metallic line of *buffable* spray lacquers are available in the areosol can(or at least were).I don't know if that has changed or not?
 
I just used a halfords own brand silver aluminium spray can, really blends in well with the actual alu bits I have and its really durable too.
 
Silver Rubb 'N Buff gives a pretty good aluminum finish, but you have to be carefull when touching it when you're done. You can seal it, but as with most metalic finishes, it will dull it down.
 
Silver Rubb 'N Buff gives a pretty good aluminum finish, but you have to be carefull when touching it when you're done. You can seal it, but as with most metalic finishes, it will dull it down.
Heard a mention that future floor wax might seal it without dulling the metal finish. It was all in the application.
 
Here http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com/catalog/powders.htm It's actual, powdered aluminum. Can't get any more real than this stuff. I use it all the time for finishing models that have a bare metal finish.

After you've applied it, go over it -lightly- with a buffing wheel (on your dremel or drill, however big the piece you're working on, is). The buffing will seal it, though handling it too much may leave fingerprints. But if you do leave prints, just apply a little more powder and buff it right out.

-Fred
 
GF, I have used the duplicolor metalic system spray paints on R2 parts in the past and it works great. You basically prime the parts, spray with gloss black, overspray with the metallic silver color and finally a clear color (blue) over that.

for the plain silver parts that are supposed to be aluminum, I like GM silver or Bright Silver by duplicolor. both look about as good as any product I've tried. Again, if you do the primer and gloss black first, the silver truly makes it pop!
 
I know it's a figure kit but this was alclad aluminum. I just buffed it out a little more for the shine and sealed it with Future. It's the best I've found for simulating metal. It's very durable once sealed with the Future.
342744861.jpg


there are more pics of metallic figures on my site all of which started with alclad metals.
 
Thanks guys,

Yes the buff n rub stuff looks great but seems too fragile for a life size R2 I want something more durable to the touch.

Vaderdarth,

I actually used duplicolor metallic paint once for a figure stand, didn't do the black frsrt but the finish was pretty nice and just enough shine, but it was a charcoal metallic color. The GM silver or bright Silver does it have metallic flakes in it?

GFollano
 
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