TallDarkandDisfigured
Sr Member
Great pics Adam, So the teflon latching mech is just lifted by hand at one end of the toolbox to allow it to collapse?
Adam Savage's Mythbusters Toolbox
- Thread starter lucifred
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- mythbusters
That's exactly correct. When I lift the toolbox the scissor drops down and locks, and then when I want to unlock, it's placed just so that I slip my hand under that side and kick the lock up and drop the box.
As for locking the scissors closed, it's true that I tried velcro, and I also tried a small tongue lock, and never got around to designing something that worked 100%.
As for locking the scissors closed, it's true that I tried velcro, and I also tried a small tongue lock, and never got around to designing something that worked 100%.
protokev DMD
Sr Member
Thanks for the pics, that helped out a lot!
TallDarkandDisfigured
Sr Member
Sweetness.. I could build this from the scrap bin at work (if this lay off ever ends).
Looks like the larger angle are 2x3x1/8"
Off to ebay for some handles..
Looks like the larger angle are 2x3x1/8"
Off to ebay for some handles..
The handles are standard from the hardware store. ACE carries them.
TallDarkandDisfigured
Sr Member
Haha where I live I'm lucky to find nails at the hardware store... but a good tip for them thar city folk..
Contec
Master Member
Thank you Adam for posting these pictures, Sorry if we are causing you trouble by having you emptying your toolbox
:thumbsup
I pretty much eyeballed it. I first checked where i could buy aluminum plates and how big they were.(15 3/4" x 10)
I used my largest tool which is my electric screwdriver and testfitted on a mock bottom plate. I figured that Adams electric screwdriver ,that can be seen in one of the photos is about the same size as mine. I build the toolbox around it so that it would fit + have room for extra tools. It looks like i got the measurment pretty close
A 7 2/4"
B 4,3/4"
C 4, 3/4"
D width 9, 2/4"
E length 15, 3/4"
:thumbsupI pretty much eyeballed it. I first checked where i could buy aluminum plates and how big they were.(15 3/4" x 10)
I used my largest tool which is my electric screwdriver and testfitted on a mock bottom plate. I figured that Adams electric screwdriver ,that can be seen in one of the photos is about the same size as mine. I build the toolbox around it so that it would fit + have room for extra tools. It looks like i got the measurment pretty close
A 7 2/4"
B 4,3/4"
C 4, 3/4"
D width 9, 2/4"
E length 15, 3/4"
Hey Adam... these side latches look to be salvaged from a military surplus equipment case, yes? Those plastic/fiberglass cases with the metal rims?
OneHotHemi
Active Member
Thanks! Great Post
Last edited:
lucifred
New Member
Sourced some frame-hanging braided wire and some electric terminals for the mechanism that holds the box open.
Starting to look at materials for the scissor lift... I am wondering how to make the rectangular slots the movement bolts at the ends of the double scissor slide in, at the bottom of the cart and right under the box. How to make them without a Bridgeport, that is... suggestions?
-F
Starting to look at materials for the scissor lift... I am wondering how to make the rectangular slots the movement bolts at the ends of the double scissor slide in, at the bottom of the cart and right under the box. How to make them without a Bridgeport, that is... suggestions?
-F
cheech9898
Sr Member
It can be done with a wood router and carbide bit. Obviously thou, there's a lot of safety precautions and a jig guide should ge used.
Luke Skyvader
Sr Member
Now that's a good post!
looks to me to just be the kind of latch we have on road cases for theatre equipment, basically the same as these
http://www.reliablehardware.com/largetwistlatches.aspx
They are butterfly latches from theatrical road boxes. Also found on military cases.
SLOTS:
I made the slots with a drill and a jigsaw. Took about 10 minutes a slot (never underestimate how effective this technique is)
Drew the slot on the aluminum face.
Drilled a hole nearly the width of the slot at either end.
Jigsaw cut between the two holes, staying between the drawn lines.
Got out a nice flat file and filed to the lines.
Quick, efficient, takes a LOT LESS energy than you think. I promise or your money back.
For extra precision, use markup fluid and a scribe. Markup fluid comes in spray cans now. Easy peasy.
SLOTS:
I made the slots with a drill and a jigsaw. Took about 10 minutes a slot (never underestimate how effective this technique is)
Drew the slot on the aluminum face.
Drilled a hole nearly the width of the slot at either end.
Jigsaw cut between the two holes, staying between the drawn lines.
Got out a nice flat file and filed to the lines.
Quick, efficient, takes a LOT LESS energy than you think. I promise or your money back.
For extra precision, use markup fluid and a scribe. Markup fluid comes in spray cans now. Easy peasy.
protokev DMD
Sr Member
Adam, ive been looking at this to make a lift for my trooper armor container (there are far too many events where there are no tables to set the totes on) and im wondering if you could save me a bit of time by describing the math you used to figure out slot length, cross arm length, et all.
I used to be able to be able to calculate this sort of thing, but Im a dental student now and i can only add and subtract to 32.
I used to be able to be able to calculate this sort of thing, but Im a dental student now and i can only add and subtract to 32.
No math. Mock up the scissor lift on one side with cardboard. Simply cut some cardboard rectangles close to the size of your struts. Link 'em with pushpins. Stretch them out as high as you need and make your marks.
Slot needs only to be parallel. It's a forgiving structure. As long as your aluminum is up to the task.
10 minutes.
Excellent idea !
protokev DMD
Sr Member
No math?! You sir are a gentleman and a scholar
