ZK's ZF-1 research thread

Re: ZK's ZF-1 reasearch/build thread

ok some more news on the side domes.

I bought some plastruct half spheres and these look way to tall. So i dont think these are right.

Using the original domes I bought, and bringing them about 5mm away from the plate, i think they look ok.

What are your thoughts?
 
Re: ZK's ZF-1 reasearch/build thread

I think they look fine and they'd work perfectly for me. Although I'm sure someone like Kurt has a better eye for it than I do.

Gregg
 
Re: ZK's ZF-1 reasearch/build thread

Hopefully this will be pretty much self explanitory. This is how i built my sight housing contraption. My front gap between voyager halves is around 19mm and at the rear where the Maquis part is is around 21mm. You will want to check on your own pod though to make sure it fits your sight cover. The pod is going to be our biggest problem. They are all a little different.

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Re: ZK's ZF-1 reasearch/build thread

For the record I meant the end pictures....not the pictures that look like it's about to explode :)
 
Greetings all! first post here... i am looking for some general information on creating the shells for the ZF-1. What methods are you all using or what would you suggest? Thanks!
 
Greetings all! first post here... i am looking for some general information on creating the shells for the ZF-1. What methods are you all using or what would you suggest? Thanks!
Using the handy 'Search' function, I typed "ZF1 Shell", which returned THIS result. It doesn't tell you how to create your own, but it DOES show how most everyone else is doing theirs.

:behave

;)
 
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Using the handy 'Search' function, I typed "ZF1 Shell", which returned THIS result. It doesn't tell you how to create your own, but it DOES show how most everyone else is doing theirs.

:behave

;)
ha! like an idiot i simply searched for "zorg industries ZF-1"

Thank you for doing my legwork for me! :facepalm
 
Back on the ZF!! I started doing some electronics work. I have a front light sequence going. I am going to redo the circuit as i want the center led to stay on longer like the movie. I need to make another of these circuits for the front leds. Also got a 6channel wireless remote and servo control from hyperdyne. I have had to chop up the wireless board and replace relays to fit into the sight and i also have a 1/5" LCD i am trying to fit in. There is going to be alot of stuff in this sight. 3rd pic down is a vidoe of the lights. They are smoother then the vid shows.

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Looking great Glen! I finally started playing around with mine again this week with the new parts. I forgot how much I enjoyed working on it.
 
This is getting ridiculous.

Here is the LCD display. 20 wires in 20mm. Definetly testing my soldering skills on this guy, not sure whats worse, soldering this small or soldering flexible ribbon cables. Yes, soldering small flexible ribbon cables!

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I have the front scanning circuit done, rear sequencer for the LEDs done, 6 channel wireless receiver modified, 6 ch relay board done, LCD wires attached. I have to make a switch setup for the rear knob to control the camera and solder the LCD to the camera. Then wire all this cluster truck together without letting the smoke out of the components. Somewhere in this mess i need a clear path to attach the top pod part to the sight/sight arms too. Ugh!

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Wow!

What are you putting in this other than the flashing lights?

Does that SD card hold sounds?

Are you doing a run? lol...unlikely I presume?

Mars, what happened to those parts, have they been posted yet?

Cheers

lewis
 
Hey Lewis, The sd card board is actually the still/video camera. That is where i load the pictures i want to display. I have rigged some switches to my front dial to control the camera. The plan is to have a 6 channel wireless transmitter mounted in the game and have it control servos for the sight pod going up, top barrel going up, top barrel going out, dart pods out, LCD power on and red button power on. Since the game only has 4 buttons i am mounting some tiny push switches on the back of the game. As soon a i get the front led circuit done and tighened up i will tackle the LCD then finish up the remote. I'll post some pics eventually. No i don't see a run happening at this time. Especially soldering all this circuitry by hand, not really fun. Maybe if i can get some time to design some real boards i could get them made but i have no idea how to do that right now. Never had pro boards made. To be honest Superkrates LED circuit is well worth the price. The LCD i will not do more than once at this time. To nerve racking soldering that tiny stuff. The wireless relay board could be made but you have to cut the original board all up and change relays so you void hyperdynes waranty. Then the transmitter needs to be modded too to fit in the game and since the remote battery doens't fit in the game you have to come up with a way to get 12v from CR2016's or something similar. I also want to keep the backlite display i put in it before so real estate in the game is at a premium. I need to fit the backlite, 6 button remote, 6 microswitchs, an led, antenna, and 8 batteries in it. I'll post up pics later.
 
A bit more progress, most of the electronic stuff is together. Here is the front scanning circuit. I just ran it for 24hrs to make sure there are no issues.

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Here is a quick video to show the final flash sequence i went with. I see at least 2 different sequneces in the movie. One at the begining a little slower and where the center light stays on longer then the rest and a quicker one that does not. I went with the former and did not concern myself too much with exact timing, i went with what speed looked good to me. It looks a bit choppy in the vid but it is not in real life.



Here is the rear panel light circuit. I was going to make them blink randomly but decided to make another type scanning circuit. I can't wire it permently until the panel is painted and i need to make the viewer hood to do that. It's next on the list.

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The LCD works!! Got it wire up. For some reason when i copy pics to the memory card the camera crops them when it displays them , when you take pics with the camera and display them it doesn't. I'll figure th image thing after. I want to make line drawings of all the weapons on a black background and then load it in.

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Here is the switch setup for the camera so i can change the pics forward and back. The knob doesn't turn, you just move it left and right to change pics. I still need to trim the bar and either glue or tap it and put a securing set screw.

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Here is the wireless receiver relay board after getting cut and smaller relays used on a remote board. It's the only way i could get this thing to fit in it. I powered it and the modified remote transmitter last night and everything works great.

Here it is before and after

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And here it is all in a sardine can. There is a 5volt regulator i am putting in it too for my scanning circuits, Laser and yellow and red lights. I am thinking i will make a power relay board to supply everything from 2x 12v Lipo batteries and 2 voltage regulators, 1 in the sight for the lights and another in the pod for the servo control board. That is if i use the servo control board. I may have to step up from RC servos to robotic servo motors because the weight of it all. Not sure though as i am not sure how to do the sight pod mechanism yet. For the camera i am sticking to the cameras AAA batteries and holder for simplicity and troublefree operation.. I will either change them once in a while or put in rechargables and run a wire to charge it. As you can see i left some real estate in the center of the pod for the sight arm cross bar and space to put something going up to hold the pod part. I have a gallon of laminating epoxy coming and some aluminum flat bar too and will figure that out next. I need someway to hold the top to the sight to the arms.

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and lastly, there is a red LED or laser thing on the front of the ZF. A few months back i was looking for a replacement laser tube for my T2 soldier rifle and found a vintage laser pointer. I was disappointed it didn't have the HeNe tube style laser but it did have this hi powered diode style. The nose just happens to be the same size as hole on my front block. It had a big headsink on the front but since i was about to stuff it in a big piece of aluminum i machined off the sink. I'll put some heatshrink tubing on the board. Suprised the thing works afer being spun on the lathe but it does.

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