Removing Pour Stubs from Resin Kits

Nektu

Well-Known Member
Hey...
I'm starting in on the FM MkVII Viper this weekend, and had a quick question... There a many large and small parts attached to pour stubs that have to be removed. I've done it my own way, to varying degrees of success, and wondered what methods some of you use to get the parts free without doing to much damage? Some are easy, but some are trickier, and the fine scribe lines are really well done on this thing, and I don't want to botch them up!
Thoughts?

Best,
KK
 
I chop off the big ones with a dremel and those stone cutting discs. For smaller ones i use an X-acto saw (made for balsa i think). Real small ones just get a blade.


Edit, not discs for cutting stones but discs made of stone material.
 
I used a sanding drum on my Salzo X-Wing to get rid of pour stubs. A razor saw, and there are several styles available, is what you would want for delicate parts.
 
I've used the Dremel, too... like I said with some varied success. Had some parts crack. My razor saws are pretty generic hobby shop stuff, are there places online to order better ones? Does HLJ carry any?

KK
 
Last edited:
Hoof clippers, Xuron cutters, small chisels, Dremel, whatever the hell looks like it'll work. No secrets, just get 'em off. If they're in poor spots, then you're going to, maybe, learn a bit about re-scribing... it's a pain at first, but you'll realize it's a needed skill and not the only time you'll face doing this.
 
Some advice....

Take a sharp pencil..and DRAW a line around the PART and where it comes off.

Especially on the NOSE section of that Model. It will keep you from OVERSANDING.

I have a bandsaw..so Im spoiled. Sorry there are huge FILL Parts..but thats just how I learned to mold stuff.


Frank
 
Got them all off yesterday... just used a razor saw and a xacto blade, and took it slowly. Used the pencil idea on the nose, worked great...

KK
 
I use huge wood board 100 x 50 cm with an 80 sandpaper glued on.
Work fine for most of the pour stubs.
Ive also made a round wood board which can be mounted on my lathe.
 
I trim as much I can with a saw, mostly to avoid all the dust when sanding.
Then I use the board - works fine for me, and the rough sandpaper makes good progress fast. When the stubs are almost gone, I take the rest with a fine sandpaper and carefully work my way.
 
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