Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE BASE.

Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

I don't think that anyone read my post in Rebelscum. There are NO electronics in the base. There is only the AC adapter connector, ON/OFF switch and power wire. The PCB is in the Falcon. I do not recommend tearing open the base since there is nothing to fix in there!

Bryan

Not sure why you quoted me, as I've been very clear that the things you mentioned are all that is inside the base. Nevertheless, while I can relate to the rationality behind your very logical conclusion that the problem can't be in the base, there is a train of thought that goes something like this: "When everything else has been eliminated, what is left, however improbable, has to be the answer." So far JV has shown proof of his theory with an experiment. Now, if we can have repeatability on this, then we have our answer. It's a very easy test, someone with a faulty bird needs to step up so we can have a definitive answer for everyone.
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

I don't know if the base is your specific problem with the "dim" mandible light... but, I did have a problem in my display base... I'm pretty sure it had to do with the quality or lack of quality in the soldering of the switch assembly. I was able to pry the access plate off with a bit of difficulty, but got access to the switch and plug and stripped and re-soldered the connections, then put a replacement styrene panel on the bottom, glued it in place, and the unit has functioned fine ever since. This is all pointing to faulty soldering at some point in the circuits... and it's possible that dividing up the load with all the leds makes it so that the amps of the power supply can't get through the resistance of the bad solder, but that the battery can?

A bad solder might have been your problem, but can't account for the mandible light problem which plagues many of these. Also, what "access plate" are you referring to that you pried off?
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Ah... forgive me... for some reason, I transposed my experience with the MR USS Enterprise base... which DOES have a glued access plate. I was having the problem with that base... and reading the similar problems on the Falcon confused me enough to remember incorrectly. But the symptoms are the same... shoddy solder. And it actually CAN cause the light problem... if there is a layer of flux or crystallized solder in the join, it can act as a resistor, when different amperages of current can overcome.
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Sending a resistor to Jason so he can do a battery test under the same conditions.

JV
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Darendoc, mine is also a base problem. All my lights would flicker when I jimmied the power cord. That plug on the base is faulty on mine. The whole wiring thing in the base is a problem.....from the huge plug on the pole back to the power input plug on the side of the base.
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Is the issue something as simple as the phono jack on the stand not inserting far enough into the jack inside the ship?

Firstly, based on the photos shown, that's a phone jack not a phono jack - might help people ordering parts.

I suggest taking the following steps to confirm/isolate the problem:

1) Test using a phone extension lead to connect between the base and the ship. This should confirm whether the issue is with the mating of the two actual connectors.

2) Solder up a simple lead with a coaxial power connector at one end and a phone connector at the other. Use this to connect the power supply directly to the ship.

If (2) is successful in lighting the ship, the easiest fix might be to feed your new cable straight through the base (by drilling a hole through the access in the mirror) and then rout a channel in the bottom of the base allowing the cable to run under it invisibly. With the addition of an inline switch in the cable, everything should work and look identical on the shelf.
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Firstly, based on the photos shown, that's a phone jack not a phono jack - might help people ordering parts.

I suggest taking the following steps to confirm/isolate the problem:

1) Test using a phone extension lead to connect between the base and the ship. This should confirm whether the issue is with the mating of the two actual connectors.

2) Solder up a simple lead with a coaxial power connector at one end and a phone connector at the other. Use this to connect the power supply directly to the ship.

If (2) is successful in lighting the ship, the easiest fix might be to feed your new cable straight through the base (by drilling a hole through the access in the mirror) and then rout a channel in the bottom of the base allowing the cable to run under it invisibly. With the addition of an inline switch in the cable, everything should work and look identical on the shelf.

Here is my opinion based on the issues that has arisen:

The main problem is the connector. I argued with the manufacturer from the very beginning that a mono phone jack is not an appropriate connector for this application, but with no success.

This type of connector is actually meant to be taken in and out from time to time. For the female connector on the inside, one of the "poles" is simply a small spring steel "tongue" Since the phone jack is cylindrical and the "tongue" is flat, it, theoretically only touches the male phone jack in a small "straight line" since it really only contacts at the tangent point.

Now here is the problem, over time corrosion and oxidation can build up on both the male and female connector. And since the Falcon does not move, as the corrosion or oxidation builds up, the connection can start to become compromised. Also, there may also be a very, very small "trickle" current passing through the connectors, even though the power switch may be off (this is one reason why on many products, the manufacturers always recommend that you unplug the power when not in use for extended periods of time). This also causes corrosion and oxidation. Also, the environment has an effect on the surfaces. However, in an application that this connector is meant to be used, you get a "wiping effect" when you plug and unplug the connector (ie headphones)

So, it is my opinion that by re-soldering the wire to the connector may or may not help. It may appear to work at first, because you actually pulled the connector out and it cleaned off the surface. But, obviously, this is a temporary fix, because it will start again.

This is why, if some of you may recall, we reminded people to make sure that the small spring is on the phone jack to ensure a more reliable contact and to try spinning the Falcon on the support pole several times. This helps to clean off some of the building corrosion and oxidation.

This is the reason that on our X-wing we changed the connector to a more appropriate one.
 
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Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Here is my opinion based on the issues that has arisen:

The main problem is the connector. I argued with the manufacturer from the very beginning that a mono phone jack is not an appropriate connector for this application, but with no success.

This type of connector is actually meant to be taken in and out from time to time. For the female connector on the inside, one of the "poles" is simply a small spring steel "tongue" Since the phone jack is cylindrical and the "tongue" is flat, it, theoretically only touches the male phone jack in a small "straight line" since it really only contacts at the tangent point.

Now here is the problem, over time corrosion and oxidation can build up on both the male and female connector. And since the Falcon does not move, as the corrosion or oxidation builds up, the connection can start to become compromised. Also, there may also be a very, very small "trickle" current passing through the connectors, even though the power switch may be off (this is one reason why on many products, the manufacturers always recommend that you unplug the power when not in use for extended periods of time). This also causes corrosion and oxidation. Also, the environment has an effect on the surfaces. However, in an application that this connector is meant to be used, you get a "wiping effect" when you plug and unplug the connector (ie headphones)

So, it is my opinion that by re-soldering the wire to the connector may or may not help. It may appear to work at first, because you actually pulled the connector out and it cleaned off the surface. But, obviously, this is a temporary fix, because it will start again.

This is why, if some of you may recall, we reminded people to make sure that the small spring is on the phone jack to ensure a more reliable contact and to try spinning the Falcon on the support pole several times. This helps to clean off some of the building corrosion and oxidation.

This is the reason that on our X-wing we changed the connector to a more appropriate one.

Spinning the Falcon didn't do anything for me, I tried that over and over, and that's when I removed it from the stand and started twisting the phono plug to examine it and the soldered wires that lead through the pole to the power supply tore and there's no slack to pull them out for repair and resoldering, hence having to figure out how to replace the mirror since it's the only way to get in there without busting up the wooden frame.

It's becoming apparent MR completely dropped the ball on engineering the base properly as a stable power source from what EFX is describing.

And no, MR never got back to me either after their last email promising to check with the company that made their bases, if it weren't for the email confidentiality disclaimer that they have on the message I'm tempted to share it here... in fact, as I'm never going to buy anything from MR again I just may since that burned bridge won't matter anymore.

JV
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

This is maddening...

Has anyone else tried the battery test? Now the mirror plate supplier who emailed me isn't returning emails and I'm wondering if I will be able to get the replacement mirror so I can fix the base.
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Been busy with work and spring chores - but it's raining today (yayyy) so I will do the test this afternoon!!! Wish me luck.
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Good luck Jason, I hope this proves to be the solution for all of us!

JV
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

As an object of interest, I haven't been able to find my PS for my falcon and decided to search the forum for the specs on it as I remembered them being posted on a few occasions. I found something a bit odd, although I don't know much about these sorts of things so it may be nothing, but just thought I would share it in case there is some relevance.

Originally Posted by eFXBryan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip_Wise
Bryan Ono should step in here as this is something he should know all about.

Gee thanks Philip!

We were very careful with the electronics on the Falcon, since because of the construction, you would not be able to change the LED's once assembled. Each set of electronics were carefully tested (before and after) and all of the solder joints were supposed to be checked carefully to make sure they were "shiny and smooth" to ensure a good secure connection. Also, there are the proper resistors inline to control the current. So, unfortunately, I do not have an answer to why some of the lights are going out. As stated above, the LED's should not burn out, since the minimum life was spec'ed at 10,000 hours.

As for the specific problem, here are a couple things to try. Even with the ON/OFF switch, if you kept the adapter plugged in, there could be a little trickle of current going into the Falcon from the base. However, this is not enough to light the LED's. In this case, corrosion can builb up on the connection. So try:

1. Spinning the Falcon on the base. Sometimes, this will "scrape' off the corrosion.
2. Remove the Falcon completely from the base and clean off the connection post and receptacle.
3. Ensure that the spring that was included is on the male connector. This helps to secure the connection.
4. Test and replace the Adapter if necessary. The spec is 12VDC, Center Hot, Switching adapter.

Hope this helps. And just for your information, the X-Wing we are working on, we are trying to make all of the LED's replaceable. We are trying our best to engineer it so that parts are removable to have access the LED's, yet invisible when assembled.

Bryan

The description on the label of my Falcon plug reads.

Model :M3A-161 WPO9

SWITCH-MODE
POWER SUPPLY

ENG? Brand of plug I think.
Input: 100-240V-50-60Hz,0.6A
Output:9V---1.7A
FOR I.T.E USE ONLY

As one can see, the spec was said to be a 12V power supply, but someone has listed the spec on their PS to be 9V. Could this have anything to do with the problems of LED's not getting enough power? Also, what's the proper specs, as I need to get a new PS for my bird, thanks.:D
 
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Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Also, I have a spare 9VDC 100MA adapter. Would this work assuming that 9V is the proper voltage?
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

It might be easier to narrow down when Jason does a test with the proper resistor I sent him several weeks back so we can see if the battery test rules out an internal circuitry problem. The battery test uses a 9 volt. My power pack said 9V output, and the 9 volt battery powered my lights nice and bright.

Spinning the phono plug on my base pylon is what helped tear the wire inside away from the soldering points, I wouldn't be surprised with the rest of the crappy engineering regarding the base that information regarding the 12V was incorrect also.

Since MR never responded to me after our last correspondence about the base or any support regarding this issue with all the testing I've done, I'm no longer concerned about sharing their correspondence with me here, since I don't plan on ever being an MR customer again.

JV

******************

Hi. I bought your Millennium Falcon Signature Edition back in November of 2006. I put it straight into storage without opening it and upon moving, finally had a place to display it this past December of 2008. Right out of the box, the front portside mandible LED light did not work. After quite a bit of research, I have discovered I am not the only MR customer that paid a lot of money for this collectible, to have the front mandible light not work and discover that MR's stance was that it's "out of warranty". Well as mine was only unpacked and put on display after spending two years in storage, this is an unacceptable position. I took the front panel of my Falcon off where the problem LED was. After removing the LED to replace it, I figured I'd test it anyway with an alternative power source and I discovered it works. After reconnecting it, and connecting a 9 volt battery to a male phono plug jack and connecting it to the lower gunport of the Falcon, all the lights on my Millennium Falcon collectible now work fine. Which means that the problem, is in the power supply in the mirrored base as it sends current to the Falcon. The switch on my base was always wonky to begin with, and never stayed on. You had to wiggle it back and forth and he power to the Falcon was always inconsistent, and indicative that the problems with the Falcon's lighting have to do with the mirror base with all the flickering of the lights as you had to try to position the on/off switch in a manner that would keep the lights on for a few moments before going out (with the one mandible light never turning on at all). Please read this thread at the Replica Prop Forum all the way through to the end. http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=60946 The only solution I see in being able to make my Falcon light properly with the AC base, is to take the base apart to address the faulty wiring issues under the mirror panel that lead to the frosted support pylon. But it is impossible to remove the mirror panel without cracking it. My only solutions are to find a vendor who can provide a replacement mirror panel so I can effect repairs, or find out if you, Master Replicas, can direct me to the vendor that made the bases for your Millenium Falcon so I can try to buy a replacement base, even if the item is out of warranty and you don't have the license anymore, the bases are not licensed items, and I would like to restore my signature edition to be able to power up the way it should have out of the box without this problem or "out of warranty" excuses. Please respond and please don't tell me you can't do anything because it's out of warranty. I want a display base that works, the problem is not in the licensed Falcon replica, and if I have to pay to buy a working base I will. But I need you guys to respond to all the research I took on identifying the cause of this problem for so many customers. It's not an isolated issue, it's prevalent on many of the prop collecting forums where customers of yours who have bought Millennium Falcons from you have posted.

******************

Hi Jerry,

We apologize for the frustration with your Millennium Falcon. Although we do not officially condone self made repairs, we respect and appreciate your attempt at finding a solution to your assumed LED/wiring issue (well what the F am I supposed to do since MR won't offer any support? JV). We cannot even begin to imagine the difficulty of making such a decision and applaud your efforts and detailed reporting on sites like the RPF and Rebelscum; this is obviously not for the faint of heart and must be a unique experience (yeah, like I really had a choice with your *****ty warranty and electronic engineering).

As stated in your e-mail, this item is out of warranty and we no longer have the license with Lucas to support any type of replacement. As much as we would like to offer a replacement mirrored base, unfortunately the item is out of stock and has been permanently discontinued.

We are in the process of contacting the appropriate people responsible for creating/manufacturing this item and we will let you know as soon as we hear back from them to provide any information pertinent to your issue (how'd that go... if you ever really contacted them? - JV).

Thank you for your patience,
Tom Vargas
Online Manager
Master Replicas

This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. Please notify the sender immediately by e-mail if you have received this e-mail by mistake and delete this e-mail from your system. If you are not the intended recipient you are notified that disclosing, copying, distributing or taking any action in reliance on the contents of this information is strictly prohibited.

(Well as you won't honor any kind of extended service because of this problem, I don't really feel obligated to honor your email confidentiality statement. How do you like that? Don't like it? Sue me. Now you know how I feel being let down but it wasn't after spending $3K for something that wasn't engineered properly-JV)

******************

Dear Tom-

Thank you for responding.

Had an adequate policy been in place for consumers regarding this item, I would not have taken matters into my own hands self-diagnosing this, but because of the warranty issue there was no other option. I can only imagine current frustration by collectors who might still be purchasing these brand new, in the box from E-Bay or other suppliers who still have some inventory on the secondary collector's market to open them and discover the defect and be told that they're out of luck because of the warranty issue. No one should have a problem with these when they came out let alone now just because the manufacturer did not design the bases in such a way that power was adequately directed into the model. Furthermore, had I discovered this at the time I purchased it, there still would have been enormous aggravation having to ship the entire model back and forth for replacement at MR's expense and sacrificing the ability to keep a model that has a pretty good paint job, all because the manufacturers missed something with the faulty wiring in the less valuable mirror base. I would imagine the manufacturer could have cost MR a lot of money if there were owners who shipped these back because of the lighting issue when they discovered it during the period the models WERE in warranty. It's unfortunate also that MR has been notified of this defect by others and that they did not have the resources to get to the bottom of this given the widespread amount of complaints from buyers that faced the same defect.

Do you think that there will actually be some response from the people responsible for the mirror bases regarding the widespread defect effecting owners of the Falcon and if they may be willing to make some more that work for those who wish to purchase one or offer some kind of solution?

JV

******************

Hi Jerry,

We stand behind and consider our policies and warranties adequate for every product released and find your situation unfortunate as stated in the previous e-mail. We wish you didn’t have to take matters into your own hands either, but we must follow our policies (yup... conformity and not really worrying about customers who dropped 3K on this kind of collectible is sterling customer service-JV).

Each item released from Master Replicas is thoroughly inspected by a team of expert quality analysts who perform a thorough inspection to ensure everything is of premium quality and in 100% working order (really? So how is it this never lit completely right out of the box?-JV). Any item that does not meet our specific requirements are either discarded or refinished and inspected again. We do not ship anything that does not meet our strict quality standards (newsflash! You did-JV). However, rare oversights on a very small percentage of select items have occurred, this is an unfortunate reality with hand made custom prop replicas. We heavily document any issue to ensure it does not happen again (the amount of complaints in collector's forums I've seen regarding this "very small percentage" makes it seem percentage enough... not to mention all the other buyers who don't know about our collector's forums to register dissatisfaction regarding their experiences with the faulty bases-JV).

After the item leaves the factory there are many variables beyond our control that could contribute to a faulty product which is why we offer what is widely considered to be a generous 90 day warranty. We make every effort possible in educating all customers who order directly through us on our policies and encourage inspection upon delivery. We work very hard to ensure each customer is satisfied with their purchase and if a defect is discovered upon inspection we believe it is worth the time and effort to deliver on our promise (blah blah... pass the buck-JV).

We understand and can appreciate the mindset of the “hardcore collector” who directly stores the item without inspection, but that is solely at the risk of the consumer and any defect discovered beyond 90 days is unfortunately beyond our control (well then f* you and MR too- JV).

In regard to the Millennium Falcon, we had a very limited amount of returns that fell well below even our own expectations and consider it to be a successful product. We have not received any “widespread” reports of complaints via e-mail or phone beyond your own. Any and all complaints/comments that are sent in our direction are investigated and responded to (a lie... they're all over the collector's forums, he just stated so above regarding the Rebel Scum forum. Liar- JV).

In response to your inquiry regarding the further production of display bases for the Millennium Falcon, unfortunately there are too many legal/contractual reasons why we cannot have this item reproduced. In my original reply I indicated,

“…this item is out of warranty and we no longer have the license with Lucas to support any type of replacement. As much as we would like to offer a replacement mirrored base, unfortunately the item is out of stock and has been permanently discontinued.”

I have sent a message to the manufacturer of the display base and I am currently waiting for a reply. I have asked if they can possibly provide any type of assistance or insight in correcting your issue and provided a link to the RPF and copied our correspondence. I’d like to note that there have been some staffing changes since this item was released so it may have an effect on when I have a reply that will be beneficial to your predicament. I will let you know as soon as I have something available (everyone hear the circkets chirping?- JV).

If you have any further questions, do not hesitate to give me a call or e-mail (yeah so I can be told again MR isn't gonna do squat despite the fact I've tried troubleshooting their manufacturing defect- JV).

Thank you,
Tom Vargas
Online Manager
Master Replicas
(925) 979-1500 ext. 130

(Yeah, thanks... thanks for nothing Tom- JV)
 
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Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Hello...been reading this thread and I feel for you guys with problems like this. Too many times these guys who make this stuff never have maintenance in mind when they build them. If anyone living near the Palm Springs , Southern Calif. area has a MR Falcon I would love to get together with them and take a look at theirs. I may have a solution to the problem of the base and switch problems and how to fix them. No promises but I would like to look at one up close in person and might have a solution. The mirror isn't a problem since I used to work for an acrylic company and we used this acrylic mirror alot in our fabrications. PM me if anyone wants to try or at least talk about it.
 
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Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

Thanks for this thread. I got my MF but it was missing the power supply. I ended up using my universal one with 500mA. With the specs mentioned here at 9V 1.7mA I was concerned as well as not knowing the polarity. But after seeing the teardown and exposed wiring it was pretty apparent that there is no real electronics beyond the LEDs so incorrect polarity will not cause any damage so I went ahead. and it works!! All lights come up!! THank god! Now I will see if the power supply overheats if I leave it on for extended for extended time
mf8b.jpg

mf9s.jpg

mfa.jpg
 
Re: Cracking Open the MR Falcon to fix front LED. SEE POST #16 AND #17... IT'S THE B

I believe it read 9V 1.7A not 1.7mA so a 500mA power supply might run hot.

Thanks for this thread. I got my MF but it was missing the power supply. I ended up using my universal one with 500mA. With the specs mentioned here at 9V 1.7mA I was concerned as well as not knowing the polarity. But after seeing the teardown and exposed wiring it was pretty apparent that there is no real electronics beyond the LEDs so incorrect polarity will not cause any damage so I went ahead. and it works!! All lights come up!! THank god! Now I will see if the power supply overheats if I leave it on for extended for extended time
 
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