Ennis House Tiles from Blade Runner

sstinson

Well-Known Member
I need some advice on how to best replicate these tiles. I currently have my drawings generated but i am unsure as the best way to proceed with the model. i could construct it out of all styrene but that seems very cumbersome. is there any solid like material that i could use that may help things along easier? the difficult part is that each part has tapered edges.
any advice would be appreicated!
thanks
 
Hmmmm... believe it or not, it looks like something you could build out of Lego, then use an epoxy clay or Bondo to fill in seams, add some beveled angles, etc.
 
http://www.kropserkel.com/BRtiles.htm

These were from MDF masters after extensive examination of the photographic materials, and known dimensions of the cubes. These are cast gypsum/silica versions as I intended exterior use for them, but other materials would suffice for lighter weight applications indoors.
 
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Since the real things are concrete, why not use some Balsa foam? It's lightweight and you can texture them to have a rougher surface than MDF.

Gene
 
http://www.dickblick.com/products/balsa-foam/

Actually almost any art supply house will have balsa foam. It is a dense foam, somewhat similar to floral foam, that shapes easily anything from a sharp stick to a mill.

Better yet, if you do have access to a router, you should be looking for RenShape. Which has better working properties and is harder to find, but not impossible.

cheers,
JM
 
by my estimate, 1/8" layers or differences of finish were used. that said, i was considering layering up 1/8" pieces of plastic, then using a sandable filler to achieve the tapered edges. unfortuantely I do not have a router, however i am intrigued by the foam idea....! i also considered the 3d printing process however that seems expensive. i think this might be a trial and error process for me.
 
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Couldn't it be done simply by stacking sheets of, say, acrylic? It would take a little tinkering to figure out which levels needed which sized boxes cut out, but it seems like it's not unlike a PADD project, just more complex.
 
Hi Guys,
The panels that were used on Deckards apt. set , Were made of thin vacuumed formed styrene. The org. panels were .040 styrene. Other areas were fiberglass casts. If your going to make them by hand then I would make them out of MDF. Much easier to work with that plywood or plex and you can still bondo it to make the bevels.

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I have a vacuum form mold to make the individual panels. I was aloud to mold one of the unused Cement panels from the house about 10 years ago.

Hope this helps,

HMS Mike
 
So, my wife and I remodeled our guest bathroom with a FLW inspiration - I'll post pictures if anyone's interested.

I just got done with the first step in a project to augment the room - I used HMS Mike's picture above to do a smaller-scale block.

Here it is - unprimed. It's layers of chipboard built up on a ~4.5" square wood block. I'm not sure if it will turn out any good, but it's a start, I guess.
 
i finished a 8x8 mock up in foamcore board. it turned out nicely! i will try and apply a bondo finish surface and add the tapered edges this weekend. pics to come soon.
 
I was going to try and mold mine and cast some in plaster - can I just put the edges of the mold right up against the sides of the piece, or do I need to mold the sides as well?
 
I had made a set of three of these out of foam core when I was in college. I was planning an using them to make Paper Mache' shells over them, but unfortunately they were stolen off of my desk in the middle of the night. I still want a way of making a lightweight and cheap way of making a wall of these. The foam core ones were pretty easy to make, but MDF does sound like an ideal material, if time consuming to make a lot of them.

Andy
 
Here's a thought (sorry if this has already been suggested, but I'm posing this in a hurry without really reading other replies).

If you make a master, then have it vac-formed. Use thin styrene. The thinness can pick up some of the texture of your sculpt. However, the sculpt can be smooth. You can spray on some of that Spray Stone type stuff to recreate the texture, so the master can be smooth, allowing for easier removal of the vacformed piece.

I suggest this method because it would technically be easier to mount lightweight vacformed pieces on your wall.

Now you may need to build the corners out with something like balsa wood and glue it to the interior. Then attachment can be standard velcro or the new picture-hanging 3M velcro.
 
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