Tamiya bottle acryics vs. Tamiya spray cans

JOATRASH FX

Master Member
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Hello all,

Got a little question for you. I was wondering if Tamiya's rattle can paint behaves the same way as the regular glass jar acrylics? Or more specifically, does the rattle can paint dissolve with window cleaner after drying?

I am currently going to do some weathering by base coating with a solvent-based silver spray paint and then applying Tamiya acrylic afterwards. When the Tamiya is dry, I will then go over all the raised edges with a cloth wet with Ajax window cleaner. The Ajax wil dissolve the Tamiya topcoat making the silver base coat (which is not affected by the cleaner) shine through.

Since the object I'm weathering is huge, I'm thinking of getting a couple spray cans instead of using the airbrush, IF the Tamiya spay will react in the same way. (The thing I'm weathering is actually a Ghostbusters Proton Pack but I figured the modeling area has a bigger expert base for Tamiya acrylics.)


Since the spray cans are very expensive around my parts... I just wanted to double-check before shelling out for a few.

I'm also doing some research on Tamiya's site and the web... says it "synthetic laquer", and that they aren't affected by the acrylics, which would seem to suggest that they will not be suitable for my needs, but if anyone here has any real-world experience with them please chime in.

Thanks for any info.

 
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I kinda get what you are doing. I don't think it will work with the Tamiya rattle cans. They are a synthetic lacquer and they are very durable. So, once cured, anything you use to remove them might also affect the basecoat.

When doing this, I always use the lacquer as the basecoat and then paint the acrylics section by section. I usually wait a short time for them to get tacky and then do the 'paint chip' effect with some masking tape to get the irregular edges.

Gene
 
I have used Tamiya rattle spray can for as long as I can remember and they are among the best hobby spray can paints. It is synthetic lacquer that dries fast (about half an hour on average and cures in 24hrs) and it is tough and hard when cured.

I use lacquer thinner or acetone and find that these two will lift the synthetic lacquer, and they will lift as much as every other type of paint as well.

Therefore it is not suitable for your plan of action. Too thick an application of the lacquer paints and it may also affect your base coat I think. Just my 2cents:love
 
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