Grinding plastic

It's possible--I've never tried it personally, but a good friend of mine used his Dremel with router attachement & bits to make the "holes" in the barrel of his MG34 replica. I believe he carved about halfway into the thickness of the PVC--his reasoning was that leaving the pipe solid makes the barrel stronger.
 
I'd guess he used a low speed setting, but I really don't know. I sent him a link to this thread, so maybe he'll be able to chime in later :)
 
PVC doesn't melt THAT readily. You can grind away. Most you'll get are some tiny rounded melted blobs along the cut edge; no worse than the burrs that will have to be sanded down anyway.

The drilling halfway thing isn't really necessary, either...PVC is strong enough to endure being riddled with holes--it's not like a blaster barrel is put under any weight or pressure.
 
I'll second what Treadwell said - PVC and plexiglass don't really melt all that easy. It does depend on what bits you use, though, and how long you keep it in that one spot.

You will really want some bit that gets the plastic up and out of the way. You'll be throwing a lot of plastic bits around, and they are a bit hot, but nothing to worry about if you are properly dressed and have the normal safety gear on.
 
Plastic grinds ok just be aware it may not melt but it still gets hot. When I ground plastic it was on a grinding wheel and it was very messy the spray that came off.

I would wear rigger gloves to protect your hands.

Safety goggles are a must. If you have eye protection you are ready to go.

Cheers Chris
 
for plastics i usually use a coarser bit, like those long spiraled drywall router cut out bits (more actual cutting and less friction that you would get from a sanding bit) on low to medium speed, but when plastic does melt, the melted stuff is usually a lot weaker and is barely attatched to the original piece, after a second or 2 i usually just snap the melted blobs with my fingers
 
I have taken PVC pipe and slid it onto a large wooden dowel and then screwed it in place to the dowel. I then chucked the entire lot into a lathe and was able to accurately turn notches around the circumference of the PVC. Depth depends on what PVC pipe is used.
 
Something else that works well is if you have access to a dremel with a flexable shaft. You can do your routing in water. I have used this method for styrene and plexi many times. Its important to use a flex shaft for safty. You don't want your dremel in the water.
 
This thread is more than 16 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top