Deckard's Blaster Paint tips - Merged with: Metal painting tips

1000faces

New Member
Hi all,
I'm currently painting a Sidkit version of the Deckard Blaster.
I've had trouble with keeping the paint on the moving parts. As soon as one piece touches another it just comes right off.
I primed it, painted several coats and then clear coated it. Does anyone have some tips on how to achieve a hardier paint job on this.
I really appreciate any help. You guys are awesome!

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Merged similar topics by member.
 
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Re: Deckard's Blaster Paint tips

I've done some action figure painting before, and the articulation is a real pain trying to keep painted.

What you need to do is file the parts so they dont rub and there is good clearance, then paint them and what I did was add a coat of Superglue (from a pot with a brush in it) which gives a decent amount of protection. Not sure if it will translate to blaster building, though.
 
Re: Deckard's Blaster Paint tips

you might get more info if you have this post moved to the appropriate forum (props)

... just sayin
 
Re: Deckard's Blaster Paint tips

Thanks, Phase!

I'm sorry if I posted this in the wrong place but I just looked at the subtitle under the section heading and General Modeling says this:
"Home to anything about Modeling, be it tips, kits, or construction."
To me this is a model kit. Should I really move this to props?
 
Re: Deckard's Blaster Paint tips

Well what you're really talking about is building a replica Prop, so yeah the topic is more correctly "Props".

Modeling is usally spaceships and such like.

- k
 
Metal painting tips

Hi all,
I'm currently painting a Sidkit version of the Deckard Blaster.
I've had trouble with keeping the paint on the moving parts. As soon as one piece touches another it just comes right off.
I primed it, painted several coats and then clear coated it. Does anyone have some tips on how to achieve a hardier paint job on this.
I really appreciate any help. You guys are awesome!
 
Re: Metal painting tips

Did you use metal etch before priming or metal etching primer on the metal parts before painting? That will help the paint stick to the metal.

Bake on finishes made for guns such as Gunkote or Brownells teflon/moly gun finish work nice also. Much more durable than regular spray paint and no primer needed. The metal just needs to be clean and sanded or bead blasted for best results. Apply and bake/cure as specified.
 
Re: Metal painting tips

The metal that is used in the SidKit items is a soft pewter-ish type of alloy. The people who've worked with it all suggest not using anything that requires much heat, although Boba Debt was somewhat successful in soldering it.
 
Re: Deckard's Blaster Paint tips

It looks like it got moved to the right place. One thing I have seen with the Sid Kits is that some people have used Gun Blueing to darken the metal instead of painting it. Most of the actual painted parts don't seem to be movable. You could also use a metal 'blacking' (like aluminum black)to make the metal very dark and it would also toughen the metals surface to some degree. The longer you leave the blueing on the metal the darker it would get. You can pick it up pretty cheap at most gun shops and sometimes Walmart and Kmart.
 
Re: Deckard's Blaster Paint tips

Wherever there are moving parts that touch, any kind of coat will scrape off eventually.

There is no regular rattle-can paint in existence that can withstand part-against-part handling for very long. If you want something really durable, you'll have to use either 2-part automotive paint or have it powder coated. Powder coating is used on industrial parts where strength is important. Only downside it that it needs baking in an oven, so plastic or resin parts are basically out of the question. A 2-part automotive color works pretty well and will be as hard as paint on a car, but it's rather expensive and usually applied with a spray gun. (There are however 2-part paints available in rattle-can form now, but I've never tried them.)
 
Re: Metal painting tips

Without getting one of those home powder coating set ups, you may want to look into something like alumablack. I'm not 100% sure how it will work on the pewter, but since it's a chemical oxidation of the metal, it should be more permanent.

-Fred
 
You don't want to powder coat the gun it because it add thickness, it will just scrap or break right off again, or get deep scratches in it.

Use a gun blueing kit from a gun shop (ask the clerk for advice, let him know you're bluing pewter not steel) or even try using the the dupli-color metalcast anodizing spray paint. Krylon BBQ paint is also a great durable paint that creates a protective coating that is heat resistant.

Good luck, and let us know how you do!!
 
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