BODY FILLER / BONDO (Drying time...)???

Hardener is just a catalyst, is causes a chemical reaction within the material that makes it harden.
Another old trick that I will pass onto all of you. If you are doing a large area and you a heavy buildup. If you knock it down with lets say 40 grit just as it starts to get hot but not 3/4 hard yet, you will save some sanding time.
And adding polyester resin to bondo changes the chemical make up and can cause problems in adhesion and even to the paint. It can even cause the filler to shrink or become brittle. I have seen problems with cars that come back weeks, or even years later that the paint has changed color over the area that had been repaired using body filler. Thankfully no one that I have seen still does this:thumbsup
Sorry, not trying to sound like a know it all. But in this case I allmost do2 cents

DS
 
I'm sorry Terryr, I don't want or need to pick on you or others who are just messing around with, "bondo". But the methods that you have just described are only a band aid kind of approach to the material.

I know it's a bandaid Darthstone. That's what this thread is about.
And Body filler is made with polyester resin, so mixing it with polyester resin shouldn't hurt anything.
[And the bodyman I grew up beside won many awards at car shows. But what does that have to do with anything?]
 
For future reference, I looked up a few MSDS on body filler.

Unsaturated polyesters resins, modified resin, color pigment, stuffing, anti sediment materials, auxiliary agent and firming agent. mixing ratio 100: 2.

Styrene 15-20% Non Fibrous Talc 32 -42%, Calcium Carbonate 1-10%, Glass beads 1-10%, Amorphous Silica 1-3%.


"In the mid 1950s the first polyester based car body fillers were developed. They were made from the same fiberglass resins used to make boats. The first successful filler was called 'bondo' and was 40% polyester resin and 60% talc."

Polyester and Talcum powder. Not very fancy.
 
I am very impressed terryr, you have done a lot of homework on this. And just let me say that there is really no right or wrong way to make anything. Whether using clay, plaster, bondo, or whatever material. It just all depends on what the desired outcome of the project is. Looks like I forgot that.

I wasn't trying to knock you, or anyone else down. And if you do feel that I did, then I truly do apologize.

And your are right that this has nothing to do with cars. I only used that to try to back up my point. Auto body filler can be modified by adding this or that to it. I just have my opinion that the brand I use works it's best un tampered with.
 
WOW THIS IS AN OLD THREAD!!!

Just to add my 2 cents to this. I put some upol fantastic on my iron man build on Saturday.... OK thats a slight lie, I also mixed it with resin to thin it a bit, it went like yoghurt, great to apply. So smooth, AMAZING!!!

aNYWAY... AdDed the filler catalyst and the resin catalyst just to make sure it went off. Gave it a real good mix for ages. The weather is very cold herE in the UK at the moment so I knew it would take a while to cure. I have come back to my shed today (3 days later) to find a kind of rubbery gloopy coat on my beloved MK7 chest.

Terrified, I've been doing some epic searching all over google and I came across this thread and another saying just slam some heat into it. Ive had it in front of my heater for half an hour, until it was way to hot to touch and I can confirm that it has now cooled down and cured just nicely.

I can also confirm that I didn't ventilate, and I literally feel high as a kite. Not good for recreational purposes... don't try it!

Anyway, all in all, positive experience. Just heat it up until you cant tough it, then let it cool down. Only do this if you cant be arsed to restart your piece... like me.

ALSO!!!! Ventilate! Anyway I'm off to throw up. ~

In case this stuff is highly toxic... May my legacy live on in this post.

Peace out!!!!
 
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