Disney E-11 Blaster

Fly4v

Fly4v

Sr Member
While Disney may want more Star Wars in their parks they unfortunately stopped selling one of their best contributions the franchise the park exclusive electronic E-11 blaster.
I was able to get one just as they were being removed from the parks.


I have already repainted the trigger, started painting the scope, cut off the orange tip, original front sight guard and trimmed the top T-track.

Too bad they are so expensive now on the secondary market. It is a shame to cut it up.

For the missing T-track i will be using the tines from a rake that were straightened in boiling water.
The metal ring is a leftover from a Captain America build and the new front sight guard is a spare from a Nerf First Order E7-11 mod.


Drilled out the holes in the bottom of the folding stock.


Drilled the one missing vent hole, carved back the preexisting T-track and made the flash guard from a piece of PVC pipe.


The holes will be covered with the rake T-track but I can also reuse the clear barrel liner and seal the holes by reinstalling it backwards.


The added vent hole is just over the leds and circuit card. I don't know if I want to move the electronics back.

This will be a slow build.
To be honest, it may be no more than a simple repaint made with scrapes since any of a non-existant prop budget will be used for my Arrow season one Bow.
 
I'll be curious to see how you fix this up. I bought one of these blasters, too, a couple years ago when I was in Disneyland (I picked up the DL-44, too) and have been meaning to try to get it a bit more accurate. I know that there is a conversion kit available for the Hasbro E-11, I've been curious if the kit pieces would fit on the Disney E-11 as well.
 
Blue Leader said:
I'll be curious to see how you fix this up. I bought one of these blasters, too, a couple years ago when I was in Disneyland (I picked up the DL-44, too) and have been meaning to try to get it a bit more accurate. I know that there is a conversion kit available for the Hasbro E-11, I've been curious if the kit pieces would fit on the Disney E-11 as well.
Click to expand...

I have been looking at the Doopy's Hasbro Kit. At a minimum I'd like their magazine, receiver, barrel front cap and their end cap and charging handle from the Pipe build kit. Assuming the size is correct.

When it is time to spend money, I'll get a kit but I wish they were cast in black.
 
The first holes I drilled were the five 1/4 holes in the folding stock. On a real Sterling there is a tube visible.

I used the bottom part of a spent eraser-mate pen and cut it to fit around the screw pegs.



 
Moved the electronics aside and drilled the missing hole on the left side.



Also removed the black rubber strip and sanded down the bottom T-track that shouldn't be on the blaster.



I still have to fill the remaining channel and add the bottom row of missing holes.
 
Hey what rake did you use for this? It look awesome, I've only been able to find ones with a tapered ridge, not a straight one!
 
thd9791 said:
Hey what rake did you use for this? It look awesome, I've only been able to find ones with a tapered ridge, not a straight one!
Click to expand...

The rake is a Blackhawk from Lowes. The top of the T tracks do have a slight taper that needs to be trimmed down if so desired.
 


I found an old length of PVC pipe and a piece of sheet styrene to carve the bolt. The spring is a Nerf leftover.
Eventually, I will have to be cut the bolt face to accommodate the circuit card with the LEDs.

After I have the internals built then I will cut out the ejection port and the channel for the charging handle on the right side of the blaster.

The wooden block in the handle is so I can mount an allen grip screw.

I'd like to put lenses in the scope and the three screws on the front. Perhaps some magnifying glasses from a Dollar General?
 
Not a bad starting point - I've never even seen one of these blasters, and I am disney at least annually - nice find! Waaay better than starting with a hasbro. What version you going for in the end (I'm assuming ANH)? That hengstler counter and scope rail are by far the most glaring inaccuracies, but otherwise it is the best base for a mod that I've seen. Have fun!
 
Yes, I plan to build an ANH blaster and have to figure out what to do about the counter. The scope rail shouldn't be that hard.

Glued the right T-track on. The front popped out a little thanks to it "remembering" it was a rake tine. I hope a C-clap and some superglue will straighten it out. The front sight guard is just set on the barrel.


Drilled the holes on the left side of the blaster. I didn't have any putty so I superglued the old T-track down and sanded it smooth. The rubber/plastic as a mess to drill. But was able to keep the front of the rake T-Track this time.


Ground out the bottom inside of the rear sight so the spring will fit and cut out the ejection port since I feel that the bolt will be good enough. The bolt 'guide' and ejector are sheet stryrene.


After the bolt is finished I'll cut the channel for the charging handle, drill the hole in the bolt and then figure out the handle.
 


Drilled out and fitted the simulated grip retaining screw into the wooden insert on the bottom of the handle.

I didn't pay attention to the size but it was 70 cents at Ace Hardware. It is the same size as I intend to used on the barrel cap.
They are unfortunately silver stainless so I will have to blue them.
 
Carefully drilled and filed the grove for the charging handle.
Just holding the bolt and spring on the backside of this half of the blaster.



First time having the bolt closed up in both halves of the blaster.



It still needs some fitting but the idea is to use the Nerf part as a seat for the spring and separate the speaker from the chamber.



It was by luck that the end a mechanical pencil fits as the charging handle. Now just need to bend to shape, build up the base and insert it into the bolt.

 


The mechanical pencil came from Target. The exact size shouldn't matter since you have to cut the grove and the blaster is an 80ish non-scale. Ie. everything is small on the blaster except the counter/battery compartment which is too tall compared to a real counter.

For the charging handle put small ball of JB weld on the end and then bent the handle to shape in boiling water. After the shape looked right then filled the handle from the bottom with JB weld.
Cut the majority of the wide base to leave a raised lip of plastic and the interior plug of JB weld.
Cut two pieces of the exterior tube and superglued into place for the raised flattened white areas on the front and back of the handle.



Drilled a hole in the bolt to receive the JB Weld plug and the green plastic lip.



The entire assembly can slide back but I'm worried about it ripping up the fine wires inside the left side of the blaster.
 


The barrel end started with a piece of PVC pipe the same diameter as the bolt.
For the larger circle had to build up the inside with a smaller piece of PVC and keep it centered with small strips of styrene.

The smaller off center circle is another piece of PVC superglued to the end and then everything was filled with JB Weld.





The mounting holes are over the finished edge and I needed something to keep the hand drill from jumping. I cut a larger piece of PVC and held it with vice grips and drilled back to front.



One hole was drilled off. Should be easier if using a drill press and not holding the piece by hand.



Made a tube of parchment paper to preserve the part the hole that was good and back-filled with JB Weld.



Re-drilled the hole and finished sanding.
 




The tip and bayonet lug are just screwed in-place.

The bayonet lug is just layered styrene filled with JB Weld carved to shape.
 


Painted the bolt and charging handle. Started off with a coat of Chrome (left over from Captain America shield) followed by Metallic Carbon (BSG Blaster build) and then dry brushed with Steel (included with an F16 model kit).

For those that are historically inclined, I don't think Sterlings had chromed bolts or bores but since it was a base coat....

 


Filed the notches on the back of the rear sight, used styrene to make the detail of the flip up sight and aperture.

Used a separated pop rivet for the pivot detail. The head is on the right side and the ball and pin are on the left.
 
Found a bag of styrene tubes and started proper work on the power cylinders. These aren't going to be a cop-out like I did on my E7-11 blaster.



For the end cap, I took the largest tube and super glued a styrene plate to the end. Then sanded it round since I can't cut a circle very well.



One tube is six individual pieces of styrene, There is a little insert inside. Now I have to make the second cylinder and find some little nuts and bolts for the end caps.
 
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