Pepakura help!

Barspin720

New Member
A while back a me and a friend of mine desided to make pepakura iron man helmets. We read extensive how to's that included covering them in resin, bondo'ing and sanding/painting. Well when we tried covering the paper in resin we got terrible results. The paper got wet and flimsy with the resin and no matter how many coats we put on it, it never really got any thickness or firmness and stayed very flimsy.

Well now I want to try to make a full size battle droid from Star Wars episode 1. I was going to try to make it out of foam and PVC but I just came across a really good pepakura template and so trying it again had crossed my mind. But I'd like some input from someone who has made hard objects out of pepakura (like helmets and what not). What do you use to make them rigid and solid? Is resin the best way to go or is there another coating or something that I can use to make it so I can sand/grind and paint? Thanks for any pointers guys!
 
I've built 2 Dredd helmets from Pepakura and never had your issues.

The 'resin' you refer to, MUST have the activator added to harden it.

The fact you state it's 'floppy' implies you didn't add the activator OR it could be your gsm is to light.

Pepakura usually requires paper/cardboard in the 200 gsm range.

Normal paper of 80 gsm and is too lightweight.

There's no real 'cheat' when it comes to Pepakura.

1. Make your Pepakura model from 200gsm paper/cardboard.

2. Coat it inside and out with fiberglass resin WITH activator.

3. Repeat 2....Until hard....This step is defined by the size of your structure and it's purpose.

4. Add Bondo and maybe Rondo depending on the structure and purpose.

5. Sand Bondo for....it will seem like 12 years.....but it's not that long, but may seem like it:lol


Both my Dredd helmet's were a success, but I added Rondo to the inside of the first helmet, because that was easier.

I should have just done resin and fiberglass for better internal strength.

There really are no rules....but if you break them....you own them;)

Good luck and post more and show us all your build.
 
Yep, what Yaris said.

Go to a local printer or to a shop selling craft supplies and get some card stock that is over 200 gsm (grammes per square metre). If posible, don't use the coated card as the resin doesn't soak in as well.

I usually put a thin coat of resin on the outside - with the catalyst mixed in, of course. I cure my helmets in a heated cupboard, but room temperature should be ok. If it's winter where you are, consider using a heater or hair dryer to help the resin set. When it's hard, add another coat on the outside, then when that has set, start applying resin and fibreglass cloth or mat to the inside.

And we all had to find out the hard way, but several thin coats of bondo or auto body filler are easier to sand than one thick coat.
 
thanks for the awesome replies! yea i guess we used the wrong paper. we just used normal printer paper. so my next question would be, if i go to a print shop (which surprisingly ive never done....), what do i tell them? i just give them the files on a flash drive or something and then tell them what type of paper to print it on? what about size? or what type? do i just tell them 200 gsm paper and they will know what im talking about?

also, in most helmet tutorials you fiber mesh the inside. with the battle droid, in most cases i wont be able to get to the inside of a lot of pieces. will the same methods be just as effective applying only on the outside of the model?
 
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if i go to a print shop, what do i tell them? i just give them the files on a flash drive or something and then tell them what type of paper to print it on? what about size? or what type? do i just tell them 200 gsm paper and they will know what im talking about?

also, in most helmet tutorials you fiber mesh the inside. with the battle droid, in most cases i wont be able to get to the inside of a lot of pieces. will the same methods be just as effective applying only on the outside of the model?

In most print or stationery shops there is a display of card stock. A4 here in New Zealand, but Letter in the States, I guess. They usually have different colours and even some textured card. Check that it has a gsm number over 200. 250 is good if they have it.

The trouble with applying mesh to the outside is that it makes the outside dimensions larger and usually gives problems as cured fibreglass is really, really challenging to sand, which is why it works best inside where the finish is not seen.
 
the thinkness of the fiberglass - goes from 30gsm up to 500gsm - what would be the best thickness to use ?

I would try a thinner cloth first, using small pieces for the edges and sharper curved bits. You can then do several coats and build up to the strength and thickness that feels best.
 
I don't actually recall, as I am not at home at the moment, but I believe I used either 200 or 250gsm card stock to print and cut the pep file pattern.

I am not sure for the fiberglass, I didnt even know it came in 'gsm' sizes/weights/whatever.

One my Dredd helm, I did one layer of fiberglass material (fairly thin woven cloth pieces that i bought with my resin). On the inside of the Pep model.
Then, I covered that with a RONDO mix. (this is a mix of 50% Bondo and 50% resin)
This is like a goop that you spread all around the inside and covers up the sharp rough fiberglass and also adds strength.

After these two coatings, my helm was surprisingly strong.

However a full size robot. As people stated above, you may be better off going the foam route. It would take a LOT of resin & bondo..... not to mention time and $$$
 
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