Best paint to make object look like aluminum.

Hi all
Im getting ready to paint my Blade Runner Blaster 3d printed frame. What's the best paint anyone has used to make something look aluminum and not painted? Also the best paint for the upper receiver? Was thinking of a gunmetal grey or aluminum look for it. Just don't want it to look like a painted toy when I'm done. Thanks

This is a tough question and something modelers like myself have struggled with for years. Lots of paints to choose from obviously which all have their plus and minuses.

The best aluminum finish IMHO is...real Alluminum, as in Al kitchen foil. works great for larger flat surfaces with foil adhesive.

Model Master Metalizer - Aluminum - buffing lacquer. Also has a clear coat, but both need to be air brushed on.

Not sure where you live, but Ace brand Rust Stop paint in aluminum is what I like. I hear Rustoleum has a similar one but I've never tried it.

If you can make aluminum foil/tape look good then I agree that real looks the most real. I've yet to see an example that wasn't riddled with wrinkles and seams though. Don't ruin a nice piece that way.

-Rog

For this phaser part the top dial is aluminum, as well as the disc at the bottom. The cylinder is brass tube painted with Duplicolor Silver Metallic. It looks very much like weathered aluminum, and being it's an acrylic lacquer car spray it dries to a nice hard finish. It's not good for a polished aluminum look, but for a dull weathered look it's nearly perfect. The metallic grittiness of the paint is exaggerated by this oversize image, the paint looks much smoother in person.

If you're in the UK Humbrol do a rattle can called Polished aluminium, it's pretty decent...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tn9_Y7v0PXI

Well I am currently working on something that is plastic and should look like aluminum.. I am going to try Alclad II aircraft aluminum over a black gloss base but haven't gotten there yet so not sure how it will work out. I'll try to come back and post a photo when done or something.

Some years ago I was using an aerosol paint that was heat resistant, made for painting car engine blocks, to pain some props for a show I was on, that gave a good metal finish as the paint had a lot of aluminum powder in it. When dry I could buff it up to get a nice metal shine on the props. I think the brand was Crylon but I don't know if it is still available.

I think you will find there are many good looking aluminum paints. The real issue is the microscopic surface texture that affects the way light is reflected, that is what makes an item look like real aluminum or not. Items made from aluminum can be cast or machined and depending on how these operations are done, will cause the surface to have a different texture and therefore a differently perceived color.
If the surface is very finely polished, then metal plating is the only way to get that evenly reflective surface. The paint GaryArm speaks of is Krylon and it can be buffed to a dull reflective shine with a rouge cloth. I have also used very fine steel wool to simulate a brushed surface with aluminum paint. But for either of these techniques, the paint must be very dry and hard.
The best way I have found to reproduce a specific aluminum surface is to spray your metallic paint into the RTV mold and cast your part. (I have had the best results with Krylon) Because of silicone's ability to reproduce microscopic surface texture, the paint will take on the surface of you part and therefor reflect light more accurately to the original surface. If you paint your part afterwards, then the surface will now be whatever the spry or bush texture is, even if the paint is applied thinly.

Personally I would silver leaf it then clear over the top. Ive had lots of success with that method.

Vote for Alclad II Airframe Aluminum. Worked beautifully on my BR85 #5 - UNSC Finish a while back. Here's the quick turntable, this is Smooth-Cast 65D and 305 and/or 320, wet sanded as much as possible to 2000 grit: https://www.instagram.com/p/BC_ZYuRtkGz/?taken-by=robtaylorcase

If you have to do rattle can, then go to Michaels and get some Design Master Preium Metals Super Silver. Not as good as the Alclad, but you don't need an airbrush and it's easier to get a more consistent coverage- it's fairly forgiving of heavy coating. Just make sure you really warm it up in a water bath and shake it good and proper, because it likes to pebble up.

Either way, of course, make sure you're going over a gloss black paint and you've wet sanded the hell out of your surface, because ~90% of a "metallic" finish is in the surface itself, not the paint. And since it's 3D printed, spend a lot of time sanding, Bondo'ing, and priming your surface- as if you're getting ready to mold it. All the way down into those little nooks and crannies, they're the giveaway on a metallic surface.

Obviously Rub'n'buff, other wax based buffing paints are a good option too, for texture variations.

A BIG Thank You to the originator of this post and for all those who made subsequent suggestions!!! I have Resin and 3D Printed Babylon - 5 PPG Kits and all your suggestions will help me as I come to the point where I have to make a decision about painting.