Evike does it again!!! E-11 air soft

I already own the standard S&T sterling, but this is probably a better alternative for someone who is looking to build an E-11, as it is also cheaper than the standard. I had to hunt down my own expensive parts (power cylinders, hengstler counter, scope) to complete my build.

In the end, All I would have needed to do is purchase the S&T E-11, remove the heat sinks and add accurate ones, remove inaccurate scope and add a real or a mold that is much more accurate, and that's pretty much it. The hengstler would stay as well as the power cylinders.
 
As an owner of the standard sterling, can you see if there a reason to explain why the T-tracks don't go all the way back on the production E-11?

I can understand why the scope and counter are not exact copies due to trademark/copyrights.
 
Got mine in the mail 2 days after ordering. The attachment on top of the magazine holder was loose but can be glued down.
Man, it is a heavy gun! I can see why it's always held with two hands now. I'm happy with it for my usage.
Any tips on getting the orange tip off?
 
Got mine in the mail 2 days after ordering. The attachment on top of the magazine holder was loose but can be glued down.
Man, it is a heavy gun! I can see why it's always held with two hands now. I'm happy with it for my usage.
Any tips on getting the orange tip off?

Cool! Does it look like the scope can come off easily?
 
Got mine in the mail 2 days after ordering. The attachment on top of the magazine holder was loose but can be glued down.
Man, it is a heavy gun! I can see why it's always held with two hands now. I'm happy with it for my usage.
Any tips on getting the orange tip off?

Care to share any photos?
 
As an owner of the standard sterling, can you see if there a reason to explain why the T-tracks don't go all the way back on the production E-11?

I can understand why the scope and counter are not exact copies due to trademark/copyrights.

Reason for the t tracks not going all the way back is the "hop up" feature on the gun. Guess it tunes the power or something. Not really into air soft. There is a rotating section in those holes but I plan on doing whatever is needed as soon as my new tracks come in.
Now that I have mine in hand I know for sure right off the bat it needs new t tracks, new scope, and replace the counter (the one is comes with it is VERY CHEAP). With those mods it still isn't quite perfect but gets the job done and the small details can be worked out over time.
 
Got mine in the mail 2 days after ordering. The attachment on top of the magazine holder was loose but can be glued down.
Man, it is a heavy gun! I can see why it's always held with two hands now. I'm happy with it for my usage.
Any tips on getting the orange tip off?

Got my tip off just by prying it in a inconspicuous place. Just pry it til it cracks and pull it off like that. It's glued on so either way it will require a little clean up anyways. GL [emoji106]
 
The Hop Up serves two purposes, one, it keeps the airsoft BB's from just rolling out of the barrel, and two, it puts a back spin on the BB to get it to fly straight. It's a small small nub that pushes up a rubber bit to contact the BB. Just as an FYI...
 
Reason for the t tracks not going all the way back is the "hop up" feature on the gun. Guess it tunes the power or something. Not really into air soft. There is a rotating section in those holes but I plan on doing whatever is needed as soon as my new tracks come in.
Now that I have mine in hand I know for sure right off the bat it needs new t tracks, new scope, and replace the counter (the one is comes with it is VERY CHEAP). With those mods it still isn't quite perfect but gets the job done and the small details can be worked out over time.

Those parts need to be upgraded indeed, if collectors want a reasonably accurate E-11. BTW how is the scope rail?
 
The Hop Up serves two purposes, one, it keeps the airsoft BB's from just rolling out of the barrel, and two, it puts a back spin on the BB to get it to fly straight. It's a small small nub that pushes up a rubber bit to contact the BB. Just as an FYI...

Thank you sir!
 
Those parts need to be upgraded indeed, if collectors want a reasonably accurate E-11. BTW how is the scope rail?

Scope rail is ok. Does the job but isn't accurate. It stops before the rear half circles where it would normally loop into. I don't see a way to fix that without serious modification. I don't love it but I'll live with it.
 
Well, I bought this gun thinking "hey, I've never owned a 1:1 replica of a blaster before... And even though this is a "little" inaccurate it will still be awesome..." Don't kid yourself. The inaccuracies are many, and once you have a gun this CLOSE to being cool you kind of want to go the rest of the way... The things that are hardest to overcome with this gun are:
1.) The Grips. They are way to large to be "Comfortable" to hold. and it will be difficult to modify as it houses the guns motor.
2.) The Rail. It is welded to the top of the gun so again, very difficult to modify...
I'm not sorry I bought this gun, but if I had it to do over again i would probably buy the PLAIN Sterling. It would be much easier to modify I believe.

- - - Updated - - -

By the way, anyone that owns an actual Sterling or a metal replica.... How much does it weigh? This sucker is heavy and I wonder what type of stand to buy to securely hold it.
 
I've had real Sterlings and I have this airsoft. Real Sterlings have a nice heft to them for sure. Any decent stand should be able to support the weight of this airsoft as long as it isn't too flimsy.
 
Scope rail is ok. Does the job but isn't accurate. It stops before the rear half circles where it would normally loop into. I don't see a way to fix that without serious modification. I don't love it but I'll live with it.

Is it metal? Aluminum, steel?

Well, I bought this gun thinking "hey, I've never owned a 1:1 replica of a blaster before... And even though this is a "little" inaccurate it will still be awesome..." Don't kid yourself. The inaccuracies are many, and once you have a gun this CLOSE to being cool you kind of want to go the rest of the way... The things that are hardest to overcome with this gun are:
1.) The Grips. They are way to large to be "Comfortable" to hold. and it will be difficult to modify as it houses the guns motor.
2.) The Rail. It is welded to the top of the gun so again, very difficult to modify...
I'm not sorry I bought this gun, but if I had it to do over again i would probably buy the PLAIN Sterling. It would be much easier to modify I believe.

- - - Updated - - -

By the way, anyone that owns an actual Sterling or a metal replica.... How much does it weigh? This sucker is heavy and I wonder what type of stand to buy to securely hold it.

I own three E-11 Stormie blasters: the real deal is quite heavy, so I have it on a custom solid metal stand - this because the fact that even if Master Replicas being lighter (and MGC E-11 is the lightest), the MR stand is acrylic with mirror, and I've seen many mirrors cracked under blaster's weight, especially in the back foot.
 
Picked up the new airsoft E-11 and have been having fun modding it some. I made a new scope rail and put an M38 A2 scope on it. I am waiting on a real Hengstler counter that I found. I took it into a local airsoft shop to get a battery that would fit and they went ga-ga over it. IMG_2666.jpgIMG_2664.jpgIMG_2692.jpgIMG_2693.jpgIMG_2694.jpg
 
Awesome. I'm in the process of doing the same for mine. Ordered some proper T track, a counter, and a scope.

Can you go into more detail on replacing the rail? And what battery did you end up with?
 
Awesome. I'm in the process of doing the same for mine. Ordered some proper T track, a counter, and a scope.

Can you go into more detail on replacing the rail? And what battery did you end up with?

I bought a piece of 3/4in by 3 feet 12 gauge steel from my local big box home improvement store (Menards). I popped off the short rail that was tack welded and came off easily. I used a hacksaw (use a new blade) and cut the front end to have a tab to go into the vent hole. Filed...filed and filed some more. Then cold bent it in my vise. Cut the back to fit into the rear sight. Removed the flipping sight piece and milled a small piece of aluminum to sit down in the little oval impression in the sight. Pop riveted the rear of the bar to the aluminum and drilled and tapped the hole in the sight to hold everything neatly in place.
The battery is: Valken Energy 1600mAh 7.4 volts 20C Li-Po. No numbers on it!? It is: 8cm x 3.2cm x 1.2cm. Airsoft Station in Oakdale, MN. (Airsoftstation.com). $23.IMG_2703.jpgIMG_2701.jpgIMG_2702.jpgIMG_2697.jpgIMG_2700.jpgIMG_2696.jpg
 
I bought a piece of 3/4in by 3 feet 12 gauge steel from my local big box home improvement store (Menards). I popped off the short rail that was tack welded and came off easily. I used a hacksaw (use a new blade) and cut the front end to have a tab to go into the vent hole. Filed...filed and filed some more. Then cold bent it in my vise. Cut the back to fit into the rear sight. Removed the flipping sight piece and milled a small piece of aluminum to sit down in the little oval impression in the sight. Pop riveted the rear of the bar to the aluminum and drilled and tapped the hole in the sight to hold everything neatly in place.
The battery is: Valken Energy 1600mAh 7.4 volts 20C Li-Po. No numbers on it!? It is: 8cm x 3.2cm x 1.2cm. Airsoft Station in Oakdale, MN. (Airsoftstation.com). $23.View attachment 712026View attachment 712027View attachment 712028View attachment 712029View attachment 712030View attachment 712031

Awesome! Thank you so much for that information!
 
This thread is more than 5 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top