Star Destroyer by Zvezda: in my workbench

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 2, 2017

I decided to start this thread since, I dont know why, this new kit has been finally available but the WIP threads have been just a few....well only one here at the RPF! LOL! Ive had a lot of experience with model building, from cars, military, planes, sci-fi and figures, working RC 4x4s etc. Ive even tried my hand at a lot of lighting projects in a lot of these but never tried fiber optics. So, when I got my hands on this kit I said to myself....why not? Maybe choosing a 2 feet SD as my first FO project was not the smartest thing in the world but well...I hope it gets at least finished!!!

Starting with the basics, everyone so far agrees that the kit has a great finish and quality. Its easy to put together too. Of course with the FO thing in mind one has to keep thinking ahead and building the kit in sub-assemblies so the hundreds (if not thousand) of little holes for the FO can done.

20170114_191058 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Assembling the front and back ends is easy to do too using some clamps in the process. Im using Tamiya thin cement. The seam looks goo to me but you can fill it if desired. Check Robiwon WIP thread to see some cool ideas on this subject.

20170114_205323 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

The engines build is straightforward and is easily modified for LED lighting. Used a Dremel and some files to open them up and round files to smooth it out. Im using 5mm 12v LEDS, in fact the whole system will be 12v.

20170117_182333 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170117_182351 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

I ordered the Tantive IV to add some additional coolness to this already super cool SD!

20170117_203345 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170117_203357 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

I felt the front and back end of the halves joint could help a bit of reinforcing so took my 4 minute epoxy and further strengthen the structure on the inside. Of course this optional but it seemed like a good idea.

20170117_203436 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 2, 2017

Initially I was not going to add the garbage chute but since I decided to run FO....why not, right? I used some online reference to choose the correct site for it. There is some controversy has to where it goes in the tower (lower or higher) but according to the details molded in the Zvezda SD it should be where is pictured here.

20170119_184125 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr]

20170119_210345 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Testing the illumination...

20170120_182836 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Started adding some greeblies to further detail it. Used some nice parts from a tank build that ended up in the back burner.

20170120_190342 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

And its final look

20170120_191642 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170120_200251 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Test fitting the front bridge wall and prepared mentally for all the little drill holes that Im about to do...LOL!

20170121_210139 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Against the daylight to asses the approximate look of the piece.

20170124_164811 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Started the FO installation. Regarding this part, Robiwon states the bridge cannot have the FO run through it due to space problems. While this is true I decided to cut the inside couple of floor levels inside the bridge tower for the fibers to run downward. These levels are hidden inside the tower and are not seen so so far I think I can pull it out...lets what happens though!

20170125_180254 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Quick test of the FO. The LED I have is a cool white one and after hearing some opinions and looking at the actual models in the movies will go with a much warmer tone.

20170125_203550 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Warmer light test

20170126_184234 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 2, 2017

Hope you are not bored yet!

So I started drilling....and drilling....and....well you get the idea. Im using a Tamiya Handy drill with a 0.6mm drill bit. I triedsome carbide bits which are harder than HSS (High Speed Steel) but the are less "springy" so I ended up braking some. The HSS do the job and last way longer although the carbide bits were way more sharper. In order to use these small bits with the handy drill check Robiwon's fix. It consists of gluing the drill to a small tube to accommodate the bit into the drill's chuck. It looks like this:

20170129_142649 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

After some boring hours of drilling you end up with this:

20170129_183826 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170129_184640 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Now for the bay area I was, again not sure, if I would add any lights or not. After a bit of thought and planning (and looking at stills from the movies) decided to go with 1mm FO. I hope they light the Tantive IV with a spot lights kind of effect. Here is shown against my work bench light bulb to get an idea of its final look.

20170131_181939 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Took a break from all these little holes and tackled the LEDs mountings for the engines. Some brass tubes later got this:

20170202_181705 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170202_181726 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

The way the setup will be is with a 5mm blue LED inside a slightly smaller brass tube that slides snugly inside the previously shown tubes. Quick test with some JJ Abrams style look! LOL!:

20170202_182215 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170202_182357 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170202_182539 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Looks cool turned off too!

20170202_183129 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Well here is where I am so far. Got some hundred holes to drill yet!

Robiwon · Feb 2, 2017

Finally another build!!!!! Now I don't feel so lonely.
Some seriously fine work being done. Oh, and thanks for the props on my thread! I'll be following yours with great interest.

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 2, 2017

No problem man....I hope some more threads pop up now!

Robiwon · Feb 2, 2017

If you bring your engine LEDs out a bit more into the bell it'll light up more.

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 2, 2017

The cool thing about the two brass tubes that slide is that I can easily test were they would look the best. I even toyed with the idea of a micro servo that moves the LEDS in and out creating a cool effect of powering up and down the engines. Dont think would do it though. Got my plate full as it is!

niart17 · Feb 2, 2017

Awesome job! I'm definitely going to be following yours and Robiwon's threads for inspiration and help. You guys make it look so easy. Can't wait to see more.

Bill

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 2, 2017

Thanks for the props! Glad you finally decided to start a WIP thread.

Toadmeister · Feb 2, 2017

Best thing I've seen all day! Keep up the good work.

Admiral Piett · Feb 2, 2017

Wow, this looking fantastic with the FO, have you thought of maybe using lightsheet for the bridge lights, you could drill finer holes and enable more lights in that area than would be possible with FO.

JediMichael · Feb 2, 2017

Looking good. I've still never tried lights yet.

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 3, 2017

Admiral Piett said:
Wow, this looking fantastic with the FO, have you thought of maybe using lightsheet for the bridge lights, you could drill finer holes and enable more lights in that area than would be possible with FO.

I may add something more to it. The look I am after was inspired by this image:

For comparison:

20170131_181939 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Thanks for the support guys!

niart17 · Feb 3, 2017

Looking really good. Those side flood lights are going to really set it off.

The docking bay is another area I'm contemplating replacing. What's there is good, but it just seems a little shallow. I really wish they'd done it as a separate insert. I just have to get the nerve to cut what's there out. I may not worry about it though since your showing that obviously it can look great as is with just a few touches.

Keep up the great work.
Bill

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 3, 2017

Thanks buddy!

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 3, 2017

Im still......*drumroll*......drilling holes! I mentioned earlier Robiwon's handy drill mod and showed some pics. I found another way to run such small bits in it using a Dremel collet, specially the #483 (1/32"). The end where it goes into the handy drill is thinner but what I did was using a small aluminum tube as a spacer. Check the pics out:

20170203_185150 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170203_185251 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170203_185329 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

It functions perfectly. Now you have two ways of using small bits into the very handy Tamiya Handy Drill!

Hagoth · Feb 3, 2017

This is looking awesome. Great tips and insights so far.

PHArchivist · Feb 3, 2017

Be nice to see a PE brass set for this. Finer detail on the shield generator struts and other bridge details...

ausf · Feb 4, 2017

Beautiful work.

I did the same thing with my Handy drill, but was lucky that I had an older pin vise set with collets the same size.

Scarecrow Joe · Feb 4, 2017

Believe I just finished the drilling tiny holes routine, at least for now. I happened to have about 10 feet of clear vinyl transparent tubing that may serve me well for the LED to FO joints. It lights up all the FO equally although, because is transparent the tube also lets light out. It does not affect the amount and distribution of light through the end points of the fibers. I may cover the clear tubing with some black heat shrink tubing to block the light outside of it. Covered or not the amount of light to the FO themselves is not affected so am cool with that.

20170204_152013 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

20170204_152032 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr

Star Destroyer by Zvezda: in my workbench

Sr Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

Master Member

Sr Member

Master Member

Sr Member

Active Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

New Member

Master Member

Sr Member

Active Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

Sr Member

Master Member

Active Member

Sr Member

Similar threads