Star Destroyer by Zvezda: in my workbench
- Thread starter Scarecrow Joe
- Start date
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
From my measurements and tests it can be done. Check these images.
The clamp is for holding the bridge face that is not glued yet.
You need to make a way through the bridge floor which connects to the tower. Needs to be done into the area that is not exposed to the exterior like this:
I divided the FO into two bigger strands so they are easier to handle.
Then keep opening more spaces for the FO threads always remaining inside the tower like this:
At this point there is space for the FO threads and the LED that will light up the garbage chute.
Withe everything in place the fitment is precise without any problem.
Without the tower's back wall you can see where the threads pass through.
They come out into the main hull part wher you can attach your LEDS with plenty of space.
Hope these images make it more clearer!
WarpeD
Active Member
Wow. What a moment - nice work! - but this shows me the complete fallacy of the notion that the top of the superstructure ahead of the bridge could be easily removed to gain access to complex control electronics. Oops! Well, fortunately I haven't ordered anything for that wild idea yet!! Really appreciate the in-depth build pics - really getting into the nitty gritty! Sometimes learning what NOT to do is a good thing too, when in the planning stages of one's own build!
PHArchivist
Master Member
I know we discussed (in Robiwon's thread) the feasibility of internal lighting with holes but, without FO. But how well do you suppose somthign like this may work, considering how small the bulbs are, and how thin the wire is?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY8NLN...UTF8&colid=7273ZMT3756Y&coliid=I2XSLTZXAU58FF
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY8NLN...UTF8&colid=7273ZMT3756Y&coliid=I2XSLTZXAU58FF
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
They could provide a more "diffuse" pattern of light but it will never be as precise as a pattern of precise, single point of bright light exactly where you want it. Not only that but the natural variability of tiny holes performed by hand will dictate in way how the light will come out of them. With FO the tiny differences between the holes are in a way equalized by the exact same point of light provided by the fibers. FO is a real PITA for all the preparation needed but its the best way to provide controlled light.
- - - Updated - - -
Painted the insides flat black to prepare the FO installation in an effort to prevent any shine trough. Perhaps its not neede but it would be a sad thing to learn you have some once the whole model is glued together.
Hagoth
Sr Member
That actually might work pretty well. If you paint the inside black and then put a chrome silver layer on the inside it could reflect pretty well.
WarpeD
Active Member
That would probably work great. The problem with the non-FO approach is the thickness of the plastic that we're drilling through. At the small scale of the kit (and 1/2650 is dang small), the portholes are more like tunnels. So you can only see internal lighting when your line of sight is lined up with the tunnel. In order to use LED chains or strips inside the hull would be to either thin the plastic dramatically, or to carefully countersink the inside of the drilled portholes. In contrast to those two solutions, FO starts to look easier....at least in my ever-so-humble opinion.
Timmythekid
Sr Member
As you've not assembled the "neck" yet, any thought of correcting the angle relative to the superstructure? Seems no one so far has been inclined to take this on, but it's the one inaccuracy of the kit that's actually bugging me so far.
WarpeD
Active Member
This is something that bugs me too. I'm definitely looking at adjusting the angle by removing material from where the tower meets the upper hull and superstructure. The main concern isn't so much that modification as what it does to the detail in that area. It may ultimately end up being useful to model and print new sides to the tower.
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
The inaccuracies the kit may have do not bother me much to tell you the truth. Apart from adding some greeblies here and there and getting the FO the look right Im satisfied.
Installed the 1mm FO to the bay area and tested how the light transmits. Im new to this FO thing and every time I manipulate the fibers I test to see if there something wrong with it.
Im using tape to hold the fibers in place and then gluing them with shoo goo which lets me play with them if anything needs to be adjusted. Once it dries makes a very powerful bond. I dont want any fiber getting loose in there!
It reminds me of some strange clear header system of some car!
...and testing!
Started from the nose to the back adding fibers. Each time I get 10 or so I fix them with tape so they dont move around. After 20 or so I add glue, test and continue.
Test!
I put the other top part of the hull and so far no issue. There are some fibers that depending on the way and place you drill that will interfere with the top half wall that connects with the lower part crushing them. Care must be taken to selectively notch the wall where this happens. I did it when I was drilling, if there would be an interference with the upper hull, just dremel it out, meet the both hull sections (top and bottom) and proceed.
Taking a break out so I will minimize the dangers of becoming blind.....thanks for looking!
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
Well thats it for today I managed to prepare the installed fibers ready for LEDS. I got them from Hong Kong at a great price but very slow shipping. At least they are in US territory. With a little luck I may receive them this week.
20170205_193601 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
Some may wonder, is there space inside of the model for all that FO insanity?? Well there is MORE than enough! Look at this:
20170205_200143 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
Some may wonder, is there space inside of the model for all that FO insanity?? Well there is MORE than enough! Look at this:
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
Thanks crowe! Just received my LEDS!!! Just need to finish the FO though.... I also received two of my next projects.....
devil
devilThanks for showing your Build...Very Neat and man your a fast builder.
It's really great to have multiple takes on a particular kit build, giving us different view points and diverse personal emphasis on one or the other aspects of the build.
Btw. been looking at your Wildlife Photos on Flickr ... One word ...WoW.
It's really great to have multiple takes on a particular kit build, giving us different view points and diverse personal emphasis on one or the other aspects of the build.
Btw. been looking at your Wildlife Photos on Flickr ... One word ...WoW.
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
Appreciate your kind words Ota. Thanks for looking!
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
Since I finally got my LEDS I took a break from the FO installation to tackle the engine lights. I will keep this whole section as a separate circuit to control it independently from the rest of the lights. Started to put the LEDS (blue) into the brass tubes to slide them into my other brass tube holders already installed into the back of the engines. I guess this can be done in a lot of ways but tried to make the whole thing to look as clean and neat as possible even if I may never see them again once the model is completed! Bit of a anal behavior, I know...
20170207_162913 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
20170207_162930 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
After all three are in place, they look like this:
20170207_163752 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
I temporarily connected them and play with how much the LEDs should be in or out of the engine's bells. Once I was satisfied I glued the whole thing. It looks like this from the back:
20170207_165838 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
Ignition! There was a lot of light when I took this image so the lights dont look at their whole intensity.
20170207_171254 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
I continued with the secondary engines and played with the idea of doing these in a cool white color. I ditched the idea and went with the same electric blue as the main engines. In the images they look whitish but they are all the same color.
From the back:
20170207_175414 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
...and then again the whole thing lighted!
20170207_180652 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
20170207_180741 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
They are quite intense!
20170207_180825 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
Whole section completed. I will mask the LEDS when the time for painting comes. Well, lets get back to the super entertaining process of FO installation....LOL!
After all three are in place, they look like this:
I temporarily connected them and play with how much the LEDs should be in or out of the engine's bells. Once I was satisfied I glued the whole thing. It looks like this from the back:
Ignition! There was a lot of light when I took this image so the lights dont look at their whole intensity.
I continued with the secondary engines and played with the idea of doing these in a cool white color. I ditched the idea and went with the same electric blue as the main engines. In the images they look whitish but they are all the same color.
From the back:
...and then again the whole thing lighted!
They are quite intense!
Whole section completed. I will mask the LEDS when the time for painting comes. Well, lets get back to the super entertaining process of FO installation....LOL!
Scarecrow Joe
Sr Member
Better images in a darker setting. I think it matches the on screen look of the SD quite well
20170207_191516 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
20170207_191543 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
20170207_191622 by Oscar Baez Soria, on Flickr
What you think?
What you think?
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