This is my first LARGE model being built with resin. I have built some tanks and such for the board game Bolt Action. I am assuming bubbles just get popped so to speak filled and if there was any detail or panel lines they get re scribed or scratch built. I know step 18 confuses me as I dont know what is to be cut or the end result in that picture. But again I think he is casting my kit this week and shipping out a bunch of stuff he said. So if you have done step 18 please do share. I will post pictures and such when I get them. I am a car body guy so fit and finish is something I do daily. I am excited.
I guess I dont fully understand the picture you share either but after looking at this one again I get what I need to do. But your please do explain. How deep did you drill?View attachment 702398
I only drill 2mm deep also depending on the diameter of the styrene I would have used 3 sizes of styrene rod to fill the air bubbles it just depends on the size of the bubble. the very large hole Randy describes in picture A ext 0 I used Apoxie sculp, fantastic stuff get it you will use it to death and much better than the fillers the hobby shops sell for most of you filling needs. Don't get me wrong you will also need the putty as well just not as much of it.
Great tip with the drilling and styrene rod. I've never heard that one before. Watch out and don't wait too long after the superglue is kicked because it will become harder than the resin. Then you're sanding more resin than superglue. I learned that the hard way. Mr. Surfacer is also one of the best things I've found to take care of pinholes.
Using the styrene rod method you don't have to worry about the hardness of the super glue as it is only attached on the hole and around the rod, plus the styrene it self is much softer than the resin so filing it down and trimming it is very easy.
I was referring to the person above talking about Super glue and talc. It got mixed in with my comment on your styrene top tip!