Marksman-H combat remote (floating)

Profezzorn

Profezzorn

New Member
While I was looking for props to display in my living room, I came across some DIY levitation modules.
This got me thinking, what kind of prop would look awesome floating? The first answer was of course a hooverboard, but the second answer was a jedi training orb! (aka Marksman-H combat remote) At first I thought I'd just buy a replica, but that seems to be fairly difficult, so I decided to make one. There are already a lot of threads on how to do this, with a bunch of very helpful pictures. However, I decided to make mine slightly differently using a 3d printer. (I'm much better with a cad program than my hands...)

Since chroming is somewhat tricky, I decided to just buy the rims, but I intend to 3d-print everything else. The models I make will be open-source so that other people can use them at well. Here's what I have so far:

remote1.png

I've been told that this forum has the best nitpickers in the galaxy, feel free to help me make the models better by pointing out my mistakes. :)
 
The only thing I'd be worried about is having the details be too small to print out accurately, and for finishing work afterwards.. How do you plan on printing things out? I'm trying to think about overhands and support structures needed to print out your design.

But otherwise, it looks like something I'll be keeping an eye out for you to release! It looks amazing :)
 
Well, there are a few options:

My preferred option is to slice the thing in half, and print out the halves on a Form2 printer.
The Form2 can handle very small details. The Form2 has a print area of 145x145mm. Half an orb should still fit if oriented sideways, but the support structures could end up being a problem. Since I'm going to paint and weather it, I'm not too worried about minor imperfections though.

If the support structures end up being too big of a problem, I could slice it into 4 or 8 pieces. This way, all the support will be on the inside of the orb.
Assembling will be slightly more painful of course.

Another option would be to shrink the orb a little so that it fits in the 145x145 print area and then just print the whole thing.

And if all else fails, I'll just print out the individual pieces and mount them to a plastistruct orb, same as everybody else... :)
 
Profezzorn said:
Well, there are a few options:

My preferred option is to slice the thing in half, and print out the halves on a Form2 printer.
The Form2 can handle very small details. The Form2 has a print area of 145x145mm. Half an orb should still fit if oriented sideways, but the support structures could end up being a problem. Since I'm going to paint and weather it, I'm not too worried about minor imperfections though.

If the support structures end up being too big of a problem, I could slice it into 4 or 8 pieces. This way, all the support will be on the inside of the orb.
Assembling will be slightly more painful of course.

Another option would be to shrink the orb a little so that it fits in the 145x145 print area and then just print the whole thing.

And if all else fails, I'll just print out the individual pieces and mount them to a plastistruct orb, same as everybody else... :)
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan. The Form2 has AMAZING detail ability. I'm a little jealous :p Assuming the support structures work out, you planning on printing it at 10 microns?

If I may suggest though, if you plan on making the files public, for people without a resin printer, I'd thicken the exterior detail bits a bit and sunk them into the orb itself; then make the detail bits separate parts. That way they can be all printed separately, and slide into the orb and either friction locked or glued in place. I've found a 0.1mm to .25mm, depending on the fit I'm going for, works best to get parts to lock in well without requiring little to any sanding.

It'd be interesting too to see one of these wrapped around a small drone, and add some lights and sound effects, if it doesn't make it too heavy, to recreate the movie scene :D
 
All parts modeled I think.
A few parts may need some more work, and I still need to tweak the placement of some parts, but here is what it looks like now:

remote4.png

This model does not make OpenScad happy, but I like lots of polygons.... :)
 
Last edited:
TazMan2000 said:
Very gracious of you to share this design with the world.
Click to expand...

I'm from the Maker planet, I'm here to spread peace, love and open-source man!

Seriously though, open-source is pretty much the norm in the maker / 3d printing community.
Last year I started building lightsabers and was somewhat horrified that open-source is NOT the norm in that community.
 
Profezzorn said:
I'm from the Maker planet, I'm here to spread peace, love and open-source man!

Seriously though, open-source is pretty much the norm in the maker / 3d printing community.
Last year I started building lightsabers and was somewhat horrified that open-source is NOT the norm in that community.
Click to expand...

I can't help making this quote...."Thank the maker!". :lol

I have seen a growing trend to that effect, but there are still several people/companies selling their meshes. I don't condemn them for that. A lot of their meshes take thousands of hours to make and they deserve some compensation for that.

TazMan2000
 
I'm interested to see how this turns out, I wanna try magnetic levitation for some sculpture display but thought it would never work haha

Is there anyway to fluctuate the power a little so the training remote bobs up and down a little?
 
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