Zvezda Star Destroyer-a WIP

I take that back.Perhaps light gray is not necessarily in order but more of a preference. Based on the R1 Star Destroyers,white would be accurate.
I would warn against white. There really is almost no such thing as pure white, contrast just makes some things appear that way. Upon close inspection of almost any real-world object, you find the shades of grey.

The same goes for a Star Destroyer. Also consider scale effect which tends to neutralize colors further.

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I think a black primer with white basecoat is all you need. Then SLIGHTLY darker and warm grey, and a SLIGHTLY darker cool grey for the paneling.
 
I would warn against white. There really is almost no such thing as pure white, contrast just makes some things appear that way. Upon close inspection of almost any real-world object, you find the shades of grey.

The same goes for a Star Destroyer. Also consider scale effect which tends to neutralize colors further.

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Great point!
 
My plan for this guy's is a grey primer base coat, mask off panels and shoot with white. Remove masks and shoot with white again. Same as I did for the Revell kit seen elsewhere in this forum.
 
Garbage chute done, and all windows drilled for fiber optics. Next up is lighting the engines.
 

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Looking really good Robiwan. I can't wait for mine to get in. It took a holiday in Russia and should ship out soon so hopefully it's well rested and ready to be built.

Just curious, can you measure, or estimate the diameter of the geodesic domes? Either across flats or from point to point. Keep up the great work!

Bill
 
Awesome start. Zvezda says the SD will be repacked by Revell to sell in the states sometime this year. Can't wait = Ebay.

Where did you hear that? Revell of Germany will re-box in April for sale in Europe. Zvezda has stated on their site that they do not have a license for the US.

Still waiting on fiber from the Fiber Optic Store....

Took care of the hull seam, top and bottom. I used Tulip brand fabric paint. Its basically thick acrylic paint (great for light blocking small areas too!) and dries super fast. I taped so just the seam was visible. I laid down a bead of Tulip and let it set for a minute. Then I just took my finger and wiped off the excess. Doing this also ensures the paint is down in the joint. I then removed the mask and let it sit for a few more minutes. Next I took a pointed cotton swab and cleaned up the smeared excess. Until I get primer on it its hard to tell if there is any seam left, if there is its shallower than the surrounding panel lines, plus, no lost detail from putty and sanding!

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It looks like that seam is going to be the big challenge of this model. I never thought to use Tulip on an outside application. I only use it for interior light blocking. Would several thin coats of Mr. Surfacer also do the trick? I imagine it's going to be near impossible to make the seam vanish without at least some sanding.

Where'd you get those pointed swabs? I've trailed my wife into department store make-up sections and never seem to find them.
 
They are made by Tamiya. I found some similar at the dollar store in the nail polish section that are softer and not as small or as pointed. The Tamiya are more dense and definitely not for personal use! I'll lay a few styrene chips down over whatever seam may remain. If the weather holds out I'll squirt some primer over it tonight.
 
Instead of tulip, couldn't you have just used Testors putty and some fingernail polish remover?
 
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