Eye Mechanisms

Greetings everyone!

Can someone please assist in finding information on creating eye mechanisms for animatronics? I know there is a Stan Winston Course on them and I've a copy of No Strings attached but wondering if there are other good resources out there on what seems to be a hard to find topic.

Thanks!

These might help:

http://www.robotshop.com/forum/animatronic-eyes-mech-builds-t8856


Simpler ones:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1152248


Even Simpler:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryUNHPJ3leY&feature=youtu.be

Dude. That pumpkin is creepy!

Awesome links. I could really use some sources for parts. Particularly a universal joint and means of mounting the eyeball. Any suggestions? I've got the servos, figure the mounting bracket for the servos is custom made.

Why not follow the same approaches they used?

You can either get some 3D printer parts..

or from the looks of some of those tuts.. cutout your own brackets/connectors from some styrene or plastic.. or even thicker cardboard perhaps?

Access to 3D printed parts being part of the issue. I'm still waiting for my delivery of the 3D printer I backed on Kickstarter at the moment. I was hoping someone out there was providing some parts.

get them from shapeways?


go to your local maker space maybe?

Fxguy1 said:

Greetings everyone! Can someone please assist in finding information on creating eye mechanisms for animatronics? I know there is a Stan Winston Course on them and I've a copy of No Strings attached but wondering if there are other good resources out there on what seems to be a hard to find topic. Thanks!

Click to expand...

Is there any way you can be more specific on what you are looking to build?
That way any suggestions here will be about your specific needs.
There are many ways to build electro-mechanical devices either by hand (old school) or by computer aided design.
Do you have the means to design and build what you want or are you looking to just purchase already made items?
What is the quantity of ''eye mechanisms" needed, etc?
Any information you can share would be helpful. .

propmaster2000

I'll try to be as specific as I can. The project I'm working on is for my wife. I want to make her a replica of Winifred Sanderson's Spell Book from Hocus Pocus. I know that it's probably not the best / easiest way to start out, but I've got most of the supplies / materials I need except for the custom mounting for the eye and/or the brackets for the servos. I have a Futaba Skysport T4YF FM Transmitter along with a Futaba FP-R127DF receiver to control the servos. I have two EMax ESO8A servos that I plan on using for the control of the x and y axis movements. I bought an empty book storage container and a set of 12 plastic eyeballs from the local costume shop in town.

After doing some research I was able to determine I needed something comparable to a universal joint for the eye. This would allow me to get the up/ down and left/right movement I'd be looking for. Unfortunately most of the solutions I've been finding use custom 3-D Printed parts. I have NO experience with 3-D printing but I am a backer of the Hero101 3D Printer on Kickstarter and hope to receive my first 3D printer soon (Supposedly they have started shipping this past monday). There is a local makerspace that has a 3D printer and a laser cutter but I've no idea how to even approach that (just take a usb with the files and say I need to print this part?).

So aside from printing my own when my printer arrives or going to the maker space, I was hoping I might find a ready made solution I could purchase or that I might be able to make one. I'm a pharmacist by trade and have a woodworking shop in my garage (tablesaw, bandsaw, joiner, planner, drill press, but no lathe). I tend to excel in science but struggle a bit with Math and its been a while since my last physic's or math class which make it a bit difficult to design from scratch.

Basically I want to make this project for my wife and allow myself to learn more about animatronics at the same time.

Anyone have a copy of the Stan Winston School eye mech DVD? I have the ones on making a hand foam muppet style puppet and they are great! Thought about getting the eye mech one.

Actually, after checking out the homework forums on the Stan Winston school site I think I may have figured something out! I'll post some pics a little later as soon as I get a chance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Fxguy1,

Thanks for the excellent explanation of what you are looking to do. It makes it a bit easier to give good recommendations based
on your actual needs.
I see you have found a possible solution to your project.
Looking forward to the pictures of your progress :^)

I've seen the mechanisms for Joysticks that operate two potentiometers for position location.
The joystick hand would be removed and replaced with the eye ball.

If the "pots" were removed and replaced with servo motors (to move the x, y, pivot shafts) it would roll the eyeball to various positions.
If the eye ball was held in place with a type of "ball socket", it would be held there and free to move x, y and diagonal.
(just thinking out loud).



propmaster2000

.

Here are some photos of my eye mech version 1.0.

Some things I've learned so far.... the pivot point for the up down is too far back. The plane of movement for the servos needs to be pretty much straight or the plastic eye will break. More to come.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

D'OH!

If the 2 servo levers are going to be attached to the upper portion and to one side of the eye body (X,Y),
are you connecting the center support portion to the eye using a light weight spring or soft foam (even a ball joint)?
That would put the pivot point more toward the front and put less strain on the eye if both servos are working against it
(diagonal movement)?
You may have to consider putting a lever on all 4 quadrants of the eye for a "pull/pull" action rather then a "push/pull"
using one lever top and one on the side.

It looks like you are on the right track. Trial and error is a good way to learn something you've never done.

Looking forward to your progress.

Good morning Fxguy1,
Have you made any advancements to your original design?
I know real life kicks in and there's not a lot of time for the fun stuff :^)
Just checking with interest.

Have a good day.
.

I have on paper but haven't gotten into the shop yet to implement them just yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok here they are! Broke out my son's erector set and came up with this contraption....

My only problem is figuring out how to mount the second servo to control the arm that rotates the shaft. But I think I'm along the right track so far with no access to custom 3D printed parts.

Thoughts?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good morning,

I see you have changed the design from your earlier set-up.
As you make these changes, always consider how it will be mounted in the prop (book) and the amount of room available.
It looks as though the entire eye will move side to side. If there is an "eye socket" (hole in the cover), it will not stay centered
in the hole to pivot on it's own axis. The same goes for moving up and down.
The earlier links posted above show the eye pivot point close to the eyes center so that it stays more in one place and rotates
left and right from center as well as up and down from center.
You may need to mock up (simulate) the front cover eye socket in front of your design to see how the eye will perform during
the movements, to give you a better idea visually as well.

You mentioned earlier that you were looking to get a 3D printer.
Do you have 3D print files in mind to print of the eye mech. you plan to use?
Maybe looking at the "3D model" of the eye mech. will give a clearer idea what direction to take in the design.

Thanks Propmaster for the feedback and comments! It's really helping to be able to try something, post some photos and then get feedback on perhaps some next steps to take.

I have noticed that most eye movements are centered on an axis that is the center of the eye or sphere. My geometry stinks so I struggle with that. I could mount the threaded rod through the eye sideways which would allow both the left/right and up/down to be pretty centered. I'm confused however because several sites that sell the acrylic eye balls have a threaded rod that exits the back of the eye. Is this used to mount the eye or just move it? If it's not used to mount the eye, how are the eyes mounted?

I contacted Ken Banks from Kens Tools and turns out he works for Todd Gardener who did the original FX for Hocus Pocus. He is going to ask Todd if there is anything he can pass along from the original build, particularly the actual dimensions of the book.

This setup I figured I can make as big as needed to figure out the proper mechanics and then I can tackle how to make it smaller.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's a couple of good questions.
I have never done this myself so I am hoping to learn something as well.
There are many ways to do this kind of thing and I think what ever works for you is the way to do it.
I would think that the "eyeball" would have to be captured in some way that will allow it to have left, right, up, down rotation
and not move away from center.
An ''eye socket'' would hold the eye's vertical and horizontal placement but allow for the rotational movement too.
If the eye was held in this manner, a shaft out the back could be manipulated around it's axis to provide directional rotation.
Much like a joystick set up, only in reverse.
The servos would be attached to the 2 moving arms for multi directional movement and also serve as the secure mounting hardware.
The other side of the bracket (away from the servo connection) could be a pivot shaft with a point to hold it center but allow it to move
freely and hold it secure in place. All this would require an outer bracket setup.

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=680677&d=1478393435



.

Update...I've switched to using a ball joint for the mount. Here is a picture...

I just need to stop and grab some additional 4-40 nuts in order to keep the joint centered on the bolt/screw and then a longer 4-40 screw to mount to the bracket and allow for more freedom of movement.

Will post more when I get those.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk