Wand TOS Phaser disassembly guide.

AaronT

New Member
WOOO HOOO SUCCESS!!! I HAVE GOTTEN MY WAND PHASER APART WITHOUT DAMAGING IT!!!

Alright I got it apart.

The first step is to remove the "cooling fins" I used a pair of taped pliers to prevent marring and pulled firmly with just a little wiggle. Be careful to grip it about 2/3 back because the zinc could break just from grip pressure once the unit finally pops off. I used just pliers but channel locks ans vice grips could also work, just keep in mind you risk breaking the fins during removal but better than original replacements do exist.

Next grip the front of the fixed section of the nozzle adjusting ring. Turn it counter clockwise as you pull. This will result in damage to the front portion of the body where the nozzle attaches. There is no way around this damage that I can figure out. However this portion is not visible when assembled and a bit of superglue can get most of those rather small bits back in place.

At this point I popped the metal hood that sits above the IR window off with a screwdriver.

Another tricky part is figuring out how to divide the halves of the P2. This can be done by slipping a razor blade between the halves to cut these studs. Here are the cut studs marked in blue.

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I want to give credit to Jon Paul (jonpaultrek2012 on ebay) for giving me the initial tips and pics I was looking for.

So why did I need it apart? I want use a 6 Watt NUBM06 diode and make my Prop a "real" Phaser. For an idea of how powerful this would be see this youtube vid of a guy punching holes in a popsicle stick with this model of diode.


Here is a 500mw (1/2 Watt) playmates laser phaser poping some balloons.

 
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This post will be updated as I start re-assembling my "Variable output 6 Watt 455nm Phaser"

Now off to order those components.
 
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Careful yer gonna put somebodys eye out with that thing! :lol

I am a gunsmith and ammunition manufacturer by trade.

Lasers 500mw (1/2 of a watt) and up are a burning hazard for flammable materials and are rated as Class 4 (this is the highest class and there is no "Class 5" You should always use rated eye protection for these lasers as they can blind you faster than your blink response time.

The following is my personal opinion and cautions about even more powerful lasers.

Lasers 2 watts and above require serious caution. They put instant burn marks in everything. (At this point I don't point them at anything I am not willing to destroy even with the power off and batteries out of the device.

Lasers above 5 watts give me serious pause. Think INSTANT 3rd degree burns and even diffuse light can be very harmful. At this power level the laser cuts through human skin more than it burns.



So when you say "put somebodys eye out" I think instantly exploded from heat, like an egg in the microwave, eyeball.



For anyone considering playing with lasers anymore powerful than those on keychains, cat toys, and gas station trinkets please watch this safety vid.
 
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As a member of the LPF forum I will stay there is an extreme serious attitude towards safety on lasers's beginning from even the 1mw cat toys.
It's a horrible shame that there are "idiot's" out there pointing at planes and copters.
I'm positive Aaron's build will have a safety switches just like Jayrobs phaser builds.
 
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I'm planning on using a "squeeze" safety on the grip, like is used on a 1911 and some other firearms. Both it (with a firm grip) and the trigger will need to be depressed to activate the laser.
 
Does anyone have a photo of the removed radiator fin assembly? I used a rubber coated c-clamp and grabbed it really tightly and yanked the heck out of it; twisting, turning, wriggling, you name it.
Nadda.
It rattles around in there very slightly, so I know it's free to do something. But there must be some internal tang-in-slot thing happening inside there.
I mean I really feel like I used excessive force for the situation, and it does have this small range of free motion. It just won't pop out.
Luckily I haven't buggered anything up yet.
A pic would really help.
Thanks.
 
That's great!! Thank you very much. It's those barbs that are hanging me up.
I think if I grab it further towards the back and rock it side to side with more force, it might come out.
Any other tips to removing this thing?
Thanks again for the picture.
 
That's great!! Thank you very much. It's those barbs that are hanging me up.
I think if I grab it further towards the back and rock it side to side with more force, it might come out.
Any other tips to removing this thing?
Thanks again for the picture.

Just try to protect the fins with plastic or rubber when you apply the vise grip and wiggle and pull the fins until it comes off.;)
 
You mentioned replacement fins are available for the Wand Phaser, would you mind telling me where to get them? Thanks! I want to upgrade my Wand phasers.
 
Hi, I searched the web multiple times over the last few Years but I cannot find out for the sake of m life how to open the actual phaser piece. I mean it has no screws but the battery is in it. I would be capable of replacing it but I'm really afraid to break the piece if I try... Any help appreciated. Im probably just too stupid to google it right.
 
Hi, I searched the web multiple times over the last few Years but I cannot find out for the sake of m life how to open the actual phaser piece. I mean it has no screws but the battery is in it. I would be capable of replacing it but I'm really afraid to break the piece if I try... Any help appreciated. Im probably just too stupid to google it right.
Same here.
 
Still haven't found anything about how to open the phaser part safely. For the communicatior there's even a ifixit sheet. I'm sure this also is just a small battery pack that, if you know how to open would be easy to replace.
 

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