Repairing resin props
- Thread starter Drac
- Start date
Paul,
I use milliput myself. You should be good.
Some use body filler (bondo) also.
I know I love milliput superfine.
I use milliput myself. You should be good.
Some use body filler (bondo) also.
I know I love milliput superfine.
Yup, milliput for me too x)
VioletSun
Member
One tip I can give that works with regular miliput (not sure if superfine works quite the same), is to have a glass of water handy when you're using it. Once you've got the miliput mixed and on the area you want to fill dip whatever tools you're using to sculpt it (I tend to use an old exacto blade, a few dentist tools and my fingers) in the water from time to time. Miliput gets really sticky as you work it and its makes it way easier to smooth it down if you moisten your tools.
Drac
Sr Member
They are very small, basically pin holes and litte slits in the grain of the mask just where the resin was a bit thin
Then I'd go to the auto parts store and grab some "spot glazing butty" in the paint area... its perfect for that kind of thing. I use it to seam all my models and fill small gaps. The last time I bought it - it was around 5-6 dollars per tube.
It dries pretty fast but make sure you let it dry before sanding... or you'll be doing it again
this is the stuff you're looking for:
http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html#stw3LQ2L6GHsZk6o.97
Jedi Dade
It dries pretty fast but make sure you let it dry before sanding... or you'll be doing it again
this is the stuff you're looking for:
http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html#stw3LQ2L6GHsZk6o.97
Jedi Dade
Drac
Sr Member
Then I'd go to the auto parts store and grab some "spot glazing butty" in the paint area... its perfect for that kind of thing. I use it to seam all my models and fill small gaps. The last time I bought it - it was around 5-6 dollars per tube.
It dries pretty fast but make sure you let it dry before sanding... or you'll be doing it again
this is the stuff you're looking for:
http://bondo.com/bondo-glazing-spot-putty-907.html#stw3LQ2L6GHsZk6o.97
Jedi Dade
Thanks pretty sure I've seen something similar over here.
NickyD
New Member
Another option is super glue with baby powder. It's what I use to fill bubbles and small holes in my resin masks. Just add baby powder to some super glue until you get a paste-like consistency, then dab it into the hole with a toothpick. You can file or sand it after it's cured, and you can even hit it with some super glue accelerant if you don't feel like waiting.
one tip I found useful back when I was working at a prototyping firm was to scuff up the area you are going to fill, either with a ball end dremel bit or with some real coarse sandpaper, like 80 grit. Might seem counterintuitive to make the hole worse before fixing, but this allows the filling medium to get a stronger grip on the resin and prevents it from popping out.
Milliput everytime for me, that substance is perfect and an essential part of my prop making box.
Drac
Sr Member
Seems like there are many options to choose from, guess it's personal preference and what you find easier, I used milliput for my mask in the end and worked really well, I found that it shapes nicely when moistened, had a few issues but I guess that was due to the project I was working on and where I was applying it.
Targets R Us
Active Member
For things like pin holes in resin parts, I would not recommend using CA with a filler (e.g.: baby powder) as the cured CA is much harder than the resin. As a result it can be very difficult to sand the excess CA away without cutting away too much of the softer resin. I use the spot glazing putty exclusively as it is closer in hardness to the resin. I use the Milliput when I need to build up or correct larger areas.
-Jeff
-Jeff
