Making a sword - DONE!

bookface

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've been making knives for a little while now, and I noticed one of the places I get steel from had it in 1 metre lengths. Hmm, I think. I could do something with that...:D. I've been working on this for about a week, doing 30 minutes at a time in the evening after I've done everything else in the shop. My intention with this is to have something in the LOTR style, probably with a little decoration on the hilt, haven't quite decided what to have yet.

So this is what I started with, a bar of flat stock with a design drawn on it with a sharpie.

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After that it was time to cut it out with the angle grinder and put it on the belt grinder to tidy it up. I did a lot more work on the profile after this to get it even and I made the leaf shape a little more pronounced as well as finishing shaping the tang.

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Back to the belt grinder to start putting some bevels on it. Increasingly large pile of swarf under the grinder.

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I did some drawfiling with the hand files to help set the bevels so I could follow it on the belt grinder a little easier. I have to be honest, at this point I was thinking a leaf shape may not have been the easiest blade to start with, but I've started now, so I'll finish.

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I put it back on the grinder and tidied a few things up; it's still pretty rough, particularly around the tip but that will be taken care of after heat treat. In the process of grinding it's gone from 1.6kg to just over 1kg, and probably needs to lose another 200g or so. I can also say that finding people to heat treat blades this big is not easy. I've found a commercial company that is willing to put it in with larger jobs, but I'd still prefer to use someone who specializes in swords. Of course, all the sword guys are way too busy with their own work! I've left it a little thick behind the edge to try and help stop any warping during the heat treating process, but who knows how it will go. Anyone who's made some blades knows that the whole thing can go completely pear shaped at this point.

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That's it for now, hopefully next week will see it heat treated and more progress.
 
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Re: Making a sword-WIP

Well, holy extended WIP break batman! I've been working on this for the last 6 months now but pretty much only at the end of the day if it wasn't already 7pm. I got the sword back from heat treat with a wicked S kink in it that needed a fair bit of work. It's still not perfect but I mostly managed to straighten it out with heat and a vice before grinding it the rest of the way. Sadly I neglected to get pics of any of this. Next time I'll be better, I promise! I'm onto the polishing belts now, going up from 120 grit to 400.

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The bare blade weighs about 800 grams. I have some steel that I've roughly forged to shape for the pommel and guard (not very well, I only have a small cast iron anvil), and now I'm working on grinding them.

Hopefully more to come over the next couple of weeks.
 
Re: Making a sword-WIP

Looks good, what type of belt grinder are you using for stock removal?

I have a 2"x72" belt grinder with a 2hp motor. I also have an inverter for it so I can run it at different speeds.

Ground flat stock offer HT on all the steels they sell now.

Interesting. I just looked that up, they're limited to 400mm which wouldn't have been big enough for this project. I did invest in a small propane forge so I can now heat treat simple carbon steels myself but I'd probably stay away from O1 in future, at least on anything this big. It's fine for knives, but it has a tendency to twist a lot during the quench on longer blades.
 
Re: Making a sword-WIP

Today's work. I want to go with a tear drop shape pommel shape so I've been shaping on the grinder after forging the oval shape in so it was wider than the 1" stock I started with. Might get to work on the guard tomorrow.

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Re: Making a sword-WIP

Had some time today to work on this so I fired up the forge to work on the guard.

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Obviously this was pretty rough, so I took it to the grinder. I need to go back down a couple of grits on the belts to get rid of some of the scratches as well as even up some of the symmetry on it, but overall it's not too bad!

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Re: Making a sword-WIP

Great job man. I wish I had the talent and facilities to do something like this. I've been trying to find a Rufio sword from Hook for what seems like forever. I figured at this point this will be something I'll need to tackle myself.

-Ash
 
Re: Making a sword-WIP

Looking great I love the lord of the ring style swords. Don't see many sword smiths on here so it's a nice chance to see the process, thanks for sharing :)
 
Re: Making a sword-WIP

Looks really good so far! This looks like it's based on Glamdring, which is probably in my top 5 swords of any kind. I look forward to seeing this finished!
 
Re: Making a sword-WIP

Here we go, the finished thing. As you can see, the tang was pretty short, so I ended up putting a pin in the pommel to make sure it could take some punishment.

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Drilled and pinned. I blunted 3 cobalt drill bits getting through the hardened steel of the tang. I had originally planned to put a mosaic pin in the handle, but after that...nah. I used JB weld to glue the pin in place, and then peened it over. This is before I put any oil on the handle.

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After oil. I used tung oil, put on several coats and got a lovely finish. The wood is birdseye maple.

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And on the wall! Overall length is 44.5", blade length is 33.5" and weight is 1450 grams (3lbs 3oz.). Balance point is just under 4" in front of the guard. Maybe sometime I'll get onto making a scabbard!

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That came out beautifully! Excellent work.

Just a side note, you CAN use pre-hardened steel for blade creation. It's not the easiest thing but it saves the heat treatment steps. All of the blades I've made have been done this way, just look for Abrasion Resistant steel. Generally goes by the name AR400, 450, etc.. The number is the Brinnell hardness.

It's basically a necessity in my line of work (see my signature for my projects) but it can be used for just about anything if you lack heat treatment equipment and/or facilities.

Final side note, if you need to do something like drill hardened steel for the tang, just use a small torch (a propane torch works fine) and heat that bit of metal until it goes through the range of colors (anywhere past blue really) and it will be MUCH softer after that. It will ruin the temper of that bit of steel of course but the handle doesn't need to be hardened of course. In fact, it may be beneficial to have it softer (less brittle).

Just some thoughts.

Dope
 
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