New alternative for Solo Blaster

Exactly what I needed, thank you! I was hesitating to disassemble the scope for fear of losing parts and not being able to reassemble it...
 
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Anyone else receive their pistol missing the little magazine function clip?
Pistol #3 arrived missing it.

Edit: Evike is shipping a new "WE-Tech 13 Round Gas Magazine for WE712 Gas Blowback Airsoft Pistol".
I just hope it has the little clip that is missing.

It is such an awesome pistol right out the box.... Even more so for those that can now get it at $150.
Wish I could get a couple more... not to be greedy... but have to have one DL-44 for each of the movies.
 
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I care less about airsoft, but I got one one pre-order anyway. I am wondering, has anyone tried to retrofit it with a Blaster Core from Plector Labs? That is my intention. I know the magazine will need to be gutted to make room for the battery pack and the PCB.
 
Welp, I bit the bullet (so to speak) and completely disassembled mine. Actually, I stripped and put it back together a couple of times to make sure I could put it back in working order. I'm not planning to fire it, but the working slide makes such a satisfying sound.

Now that Halloween's past, I want to go from the quick weathering job I did on the factory paint to a proper blued and weathered finish. Here's the parts as they are today.

View attachment 680713

One thing I can't figure out is how to remove the knob from the scope. The two screws on top seem to have absolutely nothing to do with holding it on. They seem to be cosmetic.

Remove the two screws, and the center piece comes off (it is a thin plate). Under that is a phillips screw that holds the actual dial on. Be carful when removing the dial as there is a spring loaded detent bearing underneath.
 
Monsterpartyhat, would it be possible to have this gun sand blasted to remove the factory paint? Or would that be too harsh a treatment for this type of metal? I would like to do the Aluminum Black treatment to this blaster but the thought of the sanding is a huge deterrent.
 
I just finished using oven cleaner to strip the factory finish from an HFC M712.

1. Get a zip-lock freezer bag (large size)
2. completely dis-assemble the M712 and clean it thoroughly to remove the factory applied silicon oil lubricant (plain old liquid dish soap works well)
3. put on safety glasses, an organic chemical respirator/mask, nitrile gloves (or something simlilar), work in a well ventilated area and wear old clothes or a pair of coveralls (just in case)
4. place a part in the zip-lock bag
5. spray the part (while in the bag) ensuring complete coverage of all surfaces from which one wishes to strip the paint
6. close the bag
7. wait for a few hours (I left it in my garage for an afternoon while I ran some errands) ... when it is ready when you can rub a part with your GLOVED finger and the paint should easily lift off
8. put on the safety gear listed in step 3 and remove the part from the zip-lock bag and wash thoroughly with water and dish soap - use an old toothbrush or scrub brush to help remove gunk from any crevices
9. dry with a towel and then really dry it off with a heat gun (on low) or a hair dryer
10. optional: use a wire wheel in a Dremel on LOW SPEED using light pressure to remove any remaining paint (there is likely to be a few bits here and there) - too much pressure or too fast a speed setting will damage the aluminum
11. sand to a smooth finish using wet-dry sandpaper in progressive grits (I used 320, 400 and then 600)
12. optional: polish to a mirror finish with a buffing wheel and polishing compound (not necessary in my humble opinion)

I can't stress the use of the safety equipment enough. Oven cleaner can emit nasty fumes which you definitely do NOT want to inhale. It can also be quite corrosive so chemical burns for unprotected skin or eyes is a real possibility.


Monsterpartyhat, would it be possible to have this gun sand blasted to remove the factory paint? Or would that be too harsh a treatment for this type of metal? I would like to do the Aluminum Black treatment to this blaster but the thought of the sanding is a huge deterrent.
 
Hello,

For those that pre-ordered from Evike, were they pretty good about shipping according to their estimate? Unfortunately, I missed the excellent price in January but have preordered with an ETA of February. I'm just wondering if January's delivery was delayed.

Has anyone found a 3D printed grill that will work? Has anyone tried Todd's Custom's model kit cylinders?

Thanks!
 
From what I've herd around the inter-webs they are did delay the run. I am aim'n to put a Blaster Core in it. So I'm itchn to get my hands on it so I can figure out the cram-foo!

It has a grill on it. Unless you want to swap it out.
 
Anyone from Denmark here that bought the Evike DL-44 and received it?
Evike paused my preorder asking for import permits so any help regarding paperwork required are welcome.
It seems that a simple import permit is not enough, the Danish postal service can still return it without notifying the recipient.
 
Has anyone in the U.K. ordered one of these? I'd be interested to hear what their customs experience was like. I've had MR dl-44's though customs no problem but I'm not sure if this would be piled as it's airsoft
 
I had to cancel my order, but found a danish dealer and ordered one from them. More expensive, but close to what it would have ended up costing from the US incl. shipping and customs. Can't wait to get my hands on it and 'ruin' it [emoji1]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
What's the functionality of the knob behind the grill on the left side of the gun? Can it be deleted, and the hole filled for the addition of the proper mystery disc? Same goes for the selector switch, is it functional?
 
The knob is basically a screw and it can be removed. The selector switches between semi and full auto fire, so it has a function as this is a air soft gun. And full auto is pretty cool [emoji1]
 
From what stills I can find and from watching the film, that knob is there. That and the black flash hider make my believe it is a TFA version. The selector switch is an actual functioning part. It is a Simi/Full auto switch. I am going to use as a fire/stun switch. I am building "MY" DL 44 so I'm not worrying about Screen Accuracy.
 
Any one who knows how to strip the paint with out having to sand it all.
So far I've tried acetone, oven cleaner and industrial paint stripper to no avail. Pre sanding before applying didn't make any difference. I think it might be som kind of powder coating.
 
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