Darth Vader lightsaber resin cast painting

AgeOfStrife

Active Member
I recently picked up a resin Darth Vader lightsaber hilt from here on RPF in http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=263186

I wanted to display this alongside my Master Replicas Force FX ANH and ESB hilts, so decided it needed some paint rather than be left as bare resin.

It's still not finished, but so far it's had a tidy up of the cast (very little clean up needed), a little Humbrol model filler, a few coats of grey primer and sanding, a couple of coats of satin black spray, and a couple of coats of clear lacquer.

I wanted to get as smooth a surface as possible on the silver areas so I could use C1 Metalizer powder to get a chrome effect finish, and the gloss lacquer did a pretty good job. After masking the edges of the areas to be chromed the powder was added and rubbed with a soft pad, it doesn't take long to shine it up.

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Here are some close ups before I removed the masking tape.

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I still want to add a D ring (I've roughed one up from a bit of old wire coat hanger), paint the rivets on the T grips, paint the circuit board, and possibly satin coat the grips and shroud to take the gloss off, but for now I'm pretty happy with it.

Here it is with the MR hilts.

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Dan
 
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C1 is a grey powder that buffs to a chrome finish when rubbed. I got it from C1 Models in the UK, here is their website with details http://www.c1-models.com/c1-metalizer/ (although I got it from their eBay store as it was slightly cheaper).

It does pick up every tiny bump and scratch though, I did test it on a spare piece of black PVC initially and it did come out looking almost perfect.

They don't appear to do any other colours, but they do say that the final colour is influenced by the base colour it is applied over. I've tried it with black and a mid blue and didn't see any difference though.

Dan
 
C1 is a grey powder that buffs to a chrome finish when rubbed. I got it from C1 Models in the UK, here is their website with details http://www.c1-models.com/c1-metalizer/ (although I got it from their eBay store as it was slightly cheaper).

It does pick up every tiny bump and scratch though, I did test it on a spare piece of black PVC initially and it did come out looking almost perfect.

They don't appear to do any other colours, but they do say that the final colour is influenced by the base colour it is applied over. I've tried it with black and a mid blue and didn't see any difference though.

Dan

I wonder if you could use a transparent paint or stain over the chrome before the lacquer to get some color. Either way-- it looks great!
 
I've tried clear lacquer over the chrome and it goes back to being dull with no way to buff it out again. I haven't tried paint over it - I've got some blue, green, and red ink, and some Tamiya semi clear red paint, so I could try it out on my scrap tube.

I've put some bright blue paint on a spare piece of tube and then lacquer to get a smooth surface, I'll try some Metalizer on it tomorrow and see how it compares. If it looks brighter I might redo the hilt, if not I'll try a few other colours and see what the result is - I've got about 50 different Games Workshop paints so have plenty of shades to experiment with before buying any rattle cans.

Dan
 
this is amazing!!!

how did you avoid taking paint off with the masking tape?
There are two coats of clear lacquer over the black paint which protects it, as well as providing a smooth base for the chrome powder.

Also the masking tape is Tamiya 10mm wide tape designed for use on paint, although when i tested it on satin black paint without the clear coat it did affect the surface.

Dan
 
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Tried an experiment with two shades of blue followed by clear lacquer. I can't see any difference when compared to the black.

The first photo shows a reflected fluorescent light, from left to right it's black, GW Ultramarine blue, GW Enchanted Blue, black.

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And this is reflected white from a box behind the tube.

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Other than the brush strokes being visible for the blue, I can't see any difference in how bright the chrome looks - there appears to be slight difference the photos but it's not noticeable when i look at it. It might need testing on a larger scale, so I might try a few inches of tube completely in blue with chrome and then compare to the hilt.

Dan
 
This looks tremendous. Very well done. I have the same resin saber on order, coming in the next batch. After seeing these pics I'm more excited!
 
That looks amazing for a resin cast ... can't wait to see your custom D-ring on it :)

Chaim
It's still rough, but with two pairs of pliers and a bit of wire this is what I've got so far. I'll probably try to even it out a bit, but size wise it's close to the 2005 MR FX D ring.

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The pics only show it on top of the clip mount as I'll need to drill out the holes to fit it.

Once it's in place I'll carefully clear coat it, and then use the Metalizer powder to try to get it to look more like chrome.

EDIT: just found I can get six 30mm D rings for less than the price of a coke, so I've ordered some to see if one will fit the bill.

Dan
 
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Eventhough I'd prefer a custom made D-ring anytime over brand new D's ... have you seen what was really used for the Vader travel suit lightsaber? http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=265535 It looks like a regular key-chain O ring to me :wacko

Chaim

I think that's what I'm gonna use on mine, cause I'm pretty sure it's a key ring. & I like how it looks.
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I'm just worried about the wearing effect on the resin, as you're putting it on.
 
I have seen those pics of the touring version ring, but I prefer the look of the D ring.

If I did go with a key ring then I'd be tempted to dip it in glue, then cut it - that way it would retain it's double ring look, but the cut would allow it to be inserted onto the mount from both sides like a split D ring.

Dan
 
Today I received the 30mm D rings I'd ordered, they're pretty close to the Force FX 2005 Vader D ring, here's one on top of the MR shroud.

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I then drilled with a 2mm bit in a Dremel from each side making sure it meet in the middle, and then pulled the D ring apart and slid it in.

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I need to remove it and paint around the hole, but I'm happy with the size and fit. I'll tidy up the hole when I satin coat the black to take the shine off.

Dan
 
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