Y Wing based on the Dave G open source project

Opposite side (Ladd Y, MOM Y and Y other Ys other than Red Jammer and Tie killer/Gold leader)

Sorry I havent taken pics of the finished master (lots more parts added to it), however these pics may be of some help.

Be careful you're doing a mix of TIE killer/the MR Y/the Ladd one.

Stick to the ref pics of the Ladd and MOM Ys, they are exactly the same for 99% of the parts, only a few real kitparts have been added on them and some resin parts have been sanded down but this is the best you can do to be accurate.

Thanks Julien for all the help and hints!

I've been through my 2 Centurion kits a couple of times, but can't find that bottom piece. You're always correct, but are you sure?!


[edit] Oops, what you circled is actually a piece of the cockpit backplate casting (top). The bottom is Centurion, same than the one used on the opposite side.[/QUOTE]

Yes I am, the ID was given to me by Don when I asked for that part in the Y ID thread some weeks ago.

Don really knows his stuff. I just found it! Thanks!!!!!

Great job Scott! Nice seeing this come together. Have you given any consideration on how or if you are going to light this baby? From what I can tell it doesn't look like it's going to be too hard to drill a few holes through the support structure, but was wondering what ideas others have had. Or maybe your not even lighting it...

Mike

I did not put any provision into the patterns for running wiring, although it shouldn't be too hard to drill through the aluminum cross spar and main mounting block in order to run wires from the engines into the main fuselage. Another, possibly easier option would be to run wires in one of the other smaller pipes running along the wing. Yet another option would be to just put a battery pack in each engine with a hidden switch and power each side separately.

I forgot to address lighting it. I like Dave's last option!

I recently "lit" my x-wing by using key ring flashlights (you can get them at hardware stores and the like) that I can turn on and then insert into the cans. If I light this it'll be the same. I don't see having the lights on for any extended period of time, so my easy solution is about all I'd do.

Scott Graham said:

I forgot to address lighting it. I like Dave's last option!

I recently "lit" my x-wing by using key ring flashlights (you can get them at hardware stores and the like) that I can turn on and then insert into the cans. If I light this it'll be the same. I don't see having the lights on for any extended period of time, so my easy solution is about all I'd do.

Click to expand...

Hell of an idea!!

Neck Assembly trial fit:

Uh-oh! I put an X-Wing droid in the socket and it fits well, but a little loose front to back. There definitely needs to be some surface added towards the rear. And the jack part should be able to sit beside the droid. I either have to break out the styrene or try to fix it in Rhino. It needs some more thought and study first.

Scott - Before you add to the leading edge of the wing to fit the Hurricane engine block, there are a couple of reference photos (check the pics of the Ladd Y-Wing) that clearly show that the casting of the block was sanded down a fair amount on both ends to fit in this location. Attached is a photo with a casting before and after I sanded it to match the reference, and another shot of the trimmed casting in place on my model. It only overhangs by about .040". I may have sanded the part down a tiny bit too much but certainly not more than .020". So you really only need to add somewhere between .040" and .060" to the leading edge of the wings.

Thanks Dave. I've got 1/8" x 1/4" plastruct strip I'm trying to use in that area. I just looked at a conversion chart and noticed it's twice .060 width. I'll try to work on the engine blocks soon to see if I can get them down more like you say. It's got to get sanded down below 1/4" to fit in place too because of the plexi tolerance issue.

By the way Dave: I downloaded Rhino but can't seem to figure how to stretch surfaces. I've got some pretty simple solutions to get kit parts to fit on the upper 3 neck pieces, but can't figure out how to do it. Would you have any time to help with the changes? I can show you my notes.

Or if anyone knows Rhino, can you help out with revisions?

UPDATE: I just learned how to turn points on and grab them. I just can't figure out how to move them in .5mm increments instead of snapping to the grid. I can't figure out how to make a .5mm increment grid.

Type move in the command box, 0,5 (be sure to have your project in mm) then with your mouse show the direction you want to move the point (hold ctrl to do a perpendicular move)

Thanks Julien. That helped. :thumbs

I've now got it going what seems to be 5 inches instead of mm in the correct direction. See jpg. I have to figure out how to control the units/grid. I open the project in mm, hoping that it will default to those measurements, but it still seems to move in inches. One step closer...

This will be cool when I can finally control it!

UPDATE: Turned off Grid Snap and turned on Gumball. I successfully modified the droid socket surroundings!

Scott, it looks like you're trying to edit the STL mesh, having imported it back into Rhino? You can do that but you'll be much better off editing the original Rhino surface model and then converting it to a mesh and exporting the mesh as an STL. You edit surface models using the points as well, Although, unlike when working with meshes, there are many more powerful and versatile editing and modeling tools available for surfaces.

A quick note - Using Grid Snap is virtually useless for most things, unless you need to confine points to a particular grid spacing. The Gumball is a pretty powerful tool as you can enter exact amounts of movement.

An alternative to Julian's way to move points a specific distance is to select the points (or and object you want to move), type MOVE, enter 0 as the "Point To Move From" prompt and ENTER, then at the Point to Move To prompt type in the XYZ coordinates of the move, for example entering .5mm, 0, 0 and ENTER would move the selection .5mm along the X axis. If the UNITS are already set to millimeters you don't have to type the "mm", just the number. Keep in mind that all of my files were modeled in inches so you'll have to convert them if you want to work metric.

Rhino is primarily a Surface Modeling program. Because so many people are working with mesh scan data, they did make it possible to edit meshes with a fairly limited suite of tools. And while there are Mesh Boolean functions (Boolean commands are the backbone of and good 3D modeling program) Rhino's Mesh Boolean functions do not work reliably, if at all. On the other hand, Rhino's surface model boolean commands rock! Very powerful, very flexible.

You asked about stretching a face or plane... you can stretch a part of an object but you can't stretch a single face, al least not perpendicular to the face (what's know as it's Normal). I also use the Scale1 command a lot to stretch object along a single axis.

Another way to make such an adjustment is to Extract the surface, move it, loft a new surface between to fill the gap (or build manually if a loft isn't possible or practical) and then join all back together into a Closed Polysurface. This will only work with surfaces, not meshes.

Something you will learn with Rhino is that there are usually several different methods of achieving a desired result, all of which will create identical objects, just getting there along different paths. Some are more efficient than others, some more logical, some less prone to error but more steps, and some just become your favorite way of working.

Another way to stretch a surface, working with surfaces, is to use the extrude command, type extrudesrf in the command box, sélect the surface you want to stretch, set the distance (still be careful to your project unit) and set the direction (Im out of town so Im not sure of the order).


Like Dave said they are many ways to achieve the same result, in your case you could also use the offsetsrf command.

Not sure what you're planing to do with your updated 3D model, If you want to print it be sure to have no naked or non manifold edges. You want a watertight model. Checking the edges very often is also a good idea to not create bad object and sometimes boolean operations can be impossible because of naked edges.

Scott - send me your notes. If I can't help withthe changes I might at least be able to give you some pointers on the best way to approach the revisions.

Thanks Dave. I just sent off what I made to shapeways. Let's see how it goes.

"Wrong thread" post. "Nevermind"...

R/ Robert

I'm searching for some parts that are unique to the Ladd right side wing/fuselage area. If we can ID these parts, then guys building this version will be able to complete it pretty well.

I have ID'd one of the parts so far. Any help would be appreciated. If anyone has castings available, I'd like to buy them. Thanks in advance.