Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed saber: NEW FILES post #77!

MCM said:

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All of my parts are printed and ready to assemble! Hopefully I can get the printing video edited and uploaded this week. These parts were printed with the specs outlined above, and they turned out well.

Have any of y'all started printing yet? Please let me know if you run into any snags or anything. And, please, don't be afraid to share some pics!

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phunkymunky said:

Thank You for the file! I will give it a go this weekend with PLA. I'll let you know how it goes for me. Do you recommend supports?

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MCM said:

I printed each part with a brim, if only because sometimes the extruder hiccups when initially laying down the perimeter of an object; by the time the printer is done with the brim, the PLA is flowing like... something that flows well. I used a bit of support material on the emitter, grenade, booster, and clamp spacer sections, but probably only the emitter and booster really need it. In those cases, I selected the "touching buildplate" option in Cura for the support material.

Since you're printing this out, mind if I add your name to the list of builders?

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Dann said:

I don't have a 3D printer, but I sure wish I did, now!

I'm excited to see the finished products!

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phunkymunky said:

Here is my print.
Flash Forge Finder - PLA @ .15 mm
Raft: Yes
Support: Some parts

Had to reprint clamp pin in a horizontal position. Vertical print broke, was to brittle.
Had to reprint rod a little thinner, 97% but kept same length. Still fitting tightly, but nothing sanding didn't fix. It looks dirty because it got stuck with emitter top and had to pull of with pliers. Broke it too when I forced it out :facepalm . Had to glue it, since it's not visible, that won't be a problem.
Oh, and the pommel, doesn't fit into bottom section for me. This one will need heavy sanding around the fitting to properly fit. I should've printed a tad thinner to avoid the extra work :lol. But again, nothing sanding won't fix.

I recommend printing the clamp lever with the angled section flat to the bed, and adding supports for the rest of it. I printed it vertically, with the angled section towards the top, bit it came out to thin. Any slight rough touch towards the tip and it will break.

Overall, it's a beautiful design. Love the locking mechanism designed into it. It works perfectly. I wish more sabers are designed like this. I cannot thank you enough MCM for this file. I love it!!!


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MCM said:

Those parts turned out beautifully! It's such a rush to see something that I designed on my computer made physical without the 2 of us ever having met. I'm glad that overall the experience has been positive. I, too, noticed that the rod was a little snug in my emitter but fit through the windvane parts well enough. I actually ended up using a rubber mallet to get the rod the right depth into the emitter. I was planning on sanding the rod before hand, but my eagerness got the better of me so the rod and emitter are more-or-less one piece. Interestingly enough, at one point one my drafts had the rod and emitter as one piece but the rod kept snapping off. Having the rod embedded in the emitter makes it much more secure.

I'm fine with the pressure fit of the rod, but if the demand is there, I can alter the STL files to make the interior of the emitter ever-so-slightly larger to better accommodate the rod.

That's interesting about the clamp lever, but every printer has its own idiosyncrasies. I just printed my second set of clamp greeblies (lever, pin, card) and had them all oriented vertically no problem. But this is exactly the kind of info you should be sharing! Do you know how big your nozzel is? How thick do you have the outside walls and what are your infill settings?

As far as the pommel not fitting, did you clear out all of the support material in the booster? At first, my pommel refused to go in, but then I noticed a little "lip" leftover from the support material. I was able to chisel off the lip with a flat-head eyeglass screw driver (the absolute best tool for removing support material imho) and the pommel fit perfectly. If that isn't the problem, wrapping some sandpaper around the top cylinder of the pommel and giving it a few twists ought to make things right.

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phunkymunky said:

Yeah, it is cool how much can be achieved digitally!

I'm using a .4 mm nozzle. For infill, I left it at 20% hexagon pattern and for the walls, I believe I left the default setting. Being a complete noob, I have not really messed around with the settings. But it is something I will try in the near future. I did notice though in my printer, raft's stick too much to the prints. However, not all prints stick well with out it. Also, treelike support works much better for me than linear. It's a major headache to remove linear. I put the exacto knife to heave use when using linear support.

But back to the print, other than having adhesion issues in the beginning, due to not using raft, the print was a great success with no warping or drooping.
The top final layers, when closing the print seem to be to thin. I believe it's my settings. The factory program, well it's not the greatest. My pommel, just won't fit. I removed everything completely around the edges of both fittings, but it seems to have printed female end too reduced or male end too wide. Idk, but once I buy sandpaper I know it will work. If not, I'll just give it another print with a little thinning. There's no need to change the print, as it seems to be working with others - especially ABS. Maybe abs shrinks a little once cooled or PLA expands. Idk, complete noob here.
I do have one question, why was the final ring separated from the emitter? Just out of curiosity :lol. I don't know nothing about design, maybe it wouldn't print right?

If you do ever design other that you'd like to share, I would definitely love to give them a try. I love how this one came out, but with my kindergarten painting skills, well I'm afraid to mess it up. But, I'll still give it try!

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MCM said:

I made the last ring separate on the emitter because that's how it is on the original prop. The actual tip of the saber is believed to be a fender washer. The idea is that If you wanted, you could buy an actual washer from a hardware store and glue that on instead. I may or may not use an actual washer on mine; I've yet to decide.

What kind of build plate does your printer have? Mine's got a heated aluminum plate. For adhesion, I'm using blue painter's tape with a bit of glue stick for some extra stick. I've used glass platforms, too, and was a big fan of glue stick on those. I rarely have to use a raft for printing using these methods, which is nice because the print time is shorter, I use less material, and the bottoms of the prints look better when printed directly on the plate.

As far as the top final layers sealing off, that's a setting that you can change in your slicing software. I have my settings set to print the top and bottom layers at 1.2 mm and the top layers are solid :thumbsup

I definitely plan on doing more projects like this. We'll see how this one goes, but I've easily got half a dozen project ideas similar to this that I want to make happen. :cool

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thd9791 said:

Was there really a fender washer on the ANH stunt sabers?

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MCM said:

It reeeeeeeally looks like one on the shared stunt. Not sure about the V2 (the beveled face and whatnot) , but I'll let you be the judge? http://partsofsw.com/ob_luksab.htm

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thd9791 said:

I'm not sure, however, why the hole is so wide. the Nipple is as wide as the rod sticking into the neck.

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