Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed saber: NEW FILES post #77!

Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber

Nah those are places where the metallic tape has peeled away. We thought they were holes in the clamp for the longest time. You can see a copper-y discoloration around the rip facing the camera and the one on the back of the saber.
Excellent! That means that I don't have to modify my model in Sketchup :D :cool. I noticed the one rip in the tape that the blueprints say is a rectangular hole, so it makes sense that the artist did a bit or interpreting with this tear, too.

I started priming and filling the latest revision of the parts in order to solidify the finishing techniques for this project. Everything seems to be coming together nicely. I believe that we're all going to have some sweet-looking pieces when we're done :).

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Tomorrow I'm attempting to disassemble the extruder to see if I can clear the blockage (the usual guitar string trick didn't work, nor did the special cleaning filament). If I can get the printer back up and running, I'm confident that I'll have the parts available to download by July 1st. If not, it may be more like halfway through July before I can get a replacement printer *fingers crossed*.
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber

Tomorrow I'm attempting to disassemble the extruder to see if I can clear the blockage (the usual guitar string trick didn't work, nor did the special cleaning filament). If I can get the printer back up and running, I'm confident that I'll have the parts available to download by July 1st. If not, it may be more like halfway through July before I can get a replacement printer *fingers crossed*.

If you don't have any luck clearing the jam, you might want to try the propane torch method. I jammed my printer badly when it was new and I didn't really know what I was doing, and I was able to clear it this way. Basically, pull the nozzle, heat it with the torch until it's red hot, and any stuck plastic will melt away.

Jason
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber

You would be a hero if you can get this molded and cast aluminium pieces from it.
That has always been in the back of my mind. I've actually watched dozens of hours of vids on youtube on how to build your own aluminum foundry, how to cast with green sand, etc. I'd like to try it on my own some day. It might also be worth contracting a pro to do a run. I'm just not sure what would all go into pulling off such a... stunt :rolleyes. In addition to the casting, I would imagine that there would be some machining involved (the pommel cubes, hollowing out the interior, etc.). I'm guessing that would entail setting up with a machine shop after the casting is done. It would be quite an orchestration. Maybe after I get settled into my new place I'll start sending out emails and making calls, but it's not something I'd be up for in the near future.

I'm just about finished with the filling and sanding portion for the prototype. After the primer cures for a day or so, I'm going to wet sand everything and then paint it all with some rustoleum aluminum paint. Please excuse the pencil; it's taking the place of the rod that connects the emitter and windvane that I've yet to print. Speaking of which, looks like I'm going to have to get my printer replaced, so the launch date will unfortunately have to be pushed back :facepalm

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I suppose it's also worth discussing what type of metallic tape to use for the emitter, clamp, and pommel. As of right now, I plan on using aluminum plumbing tape, but if the real prop used something else, I would rather use the real deal. It's hard to tell from the photos I have (camera flashes really mess with how colors and textures come across).

EDIT:

I forgot to mention that I think I have a good Graflex model ready to print, but I won't know for sure until I can get my replacement printer and start prototyping it.
with graflex clamp.pngpainted.png
 
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Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber

I drew up a model of the circuit card, so there will be a 3d-printable card if anyone wants to use it. I personally plan to make one with a rectangle of plastic and some gold tape, but the model will be available for anyone not wishing to make one completely from scratch. I also adjusted a few dimensions on the saber, namely the section right above the clamp. For some reason I had that first big fat ring nearly 2mm too short, so I've fixed that.

circuit card.pngcircuit card 2.pngcircuit card 3.png

While waiting for my replacement printer to arrive, I went ahead and finished the prototype (well, maybe 95% finished). I'm glad that I did this as it helped me hash out the order of operations (drilling the holes for the screws before laying the final metallic paint ought to yield better results :p for example). Also, I'm confident that adding guide holes for the screws won't be necessary; the set screws had plenty of material to bite into (.8 mm layer thickness, 20% infill) and I can screw/unscrew them no problem. I'm not sure about the rustoleum aluminum paint. It's maybe not quite reflective as I had hoped, but then again, the sort of frosted look of it seems to approximate the cast-aluminum look well enough. Thoughts? Suggestions? Also, I used aluminum ducting tape on the pommel and emitter and I think it absolutely nails the look of the original prop.
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Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

Although I'm not an expert on Lightsabers by any means, IMO that's looking pretty spot on! Excellent work sir:thumbsup
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

You did an excellent job with your filling and painting - I would not be able to pick that out as being 3d printed if I hadn't seen it earlier :)

The matte aluminum paint does have something of a cast aluminum look to it, in the photos at least! Looks almost like a bead blasted finish. One thing that helps with approximating aluminum with paint is to use a black primer or paint coat as the last color right under the aluminum paint. Grey base works too but black gives it more of a depth like actual aluminum. But again maybe the grey base is what we want here since the original was a bit less bright anyway. Metallic paints can also take on a hazy look if the coats are too heavy - it should take 2-3 thin coats before you get total coverage.

How'd you paint the grip rings? It's easy on a metal version since you can just knock the black paint off the grip with solvent or abrasive... Did you do silver followed by masking the rings before painting the black?
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

You did an excellent job with your filling and painting - I would not be able to pick that out as being 3d printed if I hadn't seen it earlier :)

The matte aluminum paint does have something of a cast aluminum look to it, in the photos at least! Looks almost like a bead blasted finish. One thing that helps with approximating aluminum with paint is to use a black primer or paint coat as the last color right under the aluminum paint. Grey base works too but black gives it more of a depth like actual aluminum. But again maybe the grey base is what we want here since the original was a bit less bright anyway. Metallic paints can also take on a hazy look if the coats are too heavy - it should take 2-3 thin coats before you get total coverage.

How'd you paint the grip rings? It's easy on a metal version since you can just knock the black paint off the grip with solvent or abrasive... Did you do silver followed by masking the rings before painting the black?

Thanks for the compliments :)

I have some black primer that I was intending to use for this project, but for some/no good reason I used grey on this prototype. I'll try out the black primer/aluminum combo on some scrap material, as well as some other paints to see if I can find something that works perfectly. I have some black PLA, too, that I plan on using to print these parts.

As far as painting the rings, I masked them off with painters tape. I was then able to use some 0000 steel wool to gently scrape off the small bits of over-spray without taking the aluminum paint with it. The aluminum rustoleum paint is actually quite hardy and it it dries incredibly fast. It can definitely handle more... handling... than any other chrome/gold/metallic paint I've used. I hope that I can get a satisfactory finish with it.
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

wow, that looks great. excellent job with the chrome tape too.
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

That's a mighty fine Luke ROTJ lightsaber you've created ... well done ... can't wait to see a G R A F L E X clamp or replica around it :)

Chaim
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

Good call on that aluminum duct tape! I think you nailed it

Did you do the rings by hand? I can imagine masking anything off there would be a pain
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

Good call on that aluminum duct tape! I think you nailed it

Did you do the rings by hand? I can imagine masking anything off there would be a pain
I masked off the rings. With the width of the masking tape, I was able to paint 2 gaps at a time. I gave each gap 2 coats of flat black before removing the tape and masking off the next sections. With 9 gaps to paint, I ended up doing 5 rounds of masking and painting. It was a little tedious, but not so bad having the whole day off of work. I just grabbed a :cheers and tried to take a Zen approach to it all.
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

Wow, that looks amazing! Your beer & Zen paid off great! :thumbsup
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

Looks great!
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

Loooing good buddy. Well done.
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed lightsaber - PROTOYPE FINI

I got the replacement printer up and running and was finally able to print out the Graflex clamp, pin, lever, and circuit card I had drawn up. The card fits with a little sanding; I may make the final model just a bit thinner. As it stands, the lever and pin need to be glued in place (loctite superglue gel is amazing), so they don't really function, but I'm fine with that if you guys are fine with it.

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Unless anyone has any other suggestions, I figure these designs are more-or-less finalized. I can upload the files to thingiverse whenever, really. At this point, I ought to start getting a head count. So far, the following people have expressed interest in joining the build:

- MCM
- Gimpdiggity
- E Williams
- jhazard

If you want to hop on board, just post in this thread and I'll add you to the list.

After I upload the files, I figure that a week ought to be sufficient time for anyone to print out the parts (or have them printed via 3dhubs), but I should factor in a grace period. I'm shooting for a launch date of the 1st of August, meaning that everyone would have their parts printed, in hand, and ready to go. Please let me know if that sounds reasonable or not.

I'll also be putting together a concrete supply/tool list between now and then as well as an outline of the order of operations.

This project is going to be so fun! As I've expressed before, I'm confident that we're all going to have some great looking pieces!
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed saber: SIGN UP IN EFFECT!

I won't be able to participate, but I'm excited to watch this project unfold!
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed saber: SIGN UP IN EFFECT!

Looking great, this should be cool!
 
Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed saber: SIGN UP IN EFFECT!

Alright! I went ahead and uploaded the STL files to thingiverse. You can download everything here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1679814

I'm not sure how closely you folks are going to want to follow what I do, but here are some things you might want to start picking up (if you don't already have them) if you plan on following closely (I swear I'll put together a more official materials list later):

- Filler primer. I recommend Rustoleum brand, personally.
- Several grades of wet/dry sand paper. You can find assortment packs at Harbor Freight that have grades running from 240 or so to 1200 that will do fine for this project.
- Sanding block
- Needle files
- Masking/painters tape
- 0000 grade steel wool
- Aluminum/metallic spray paint
- Black spray paint. I will probably use a satin/semigloss. Again, I recommend Rustoleum, especially if you're already using their primer.
- Copper acrylic paint + paint brush
- Spot/glazing putty
- Razor blades/hobby knife
- #10-24 and #6-32 set screws (length to be determined)
- 3/4" d-ring
- Aluminum ducting tape
- Graflex clamp (real or replica)
- Loctite superglue gel. This stuff is awesome and one of the few adhesives that works well with PLA.

I'm sure there are other things that we'll need, but this should give everyone a good head start.

HAPPY PRINTING!
 
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Re: Group Tele-Build: Luke/Obi-Wan Shared Stunt 3D printed saber: STL files on post

finalized exploded.png

I've started printing my final pieces. Here are the print settings that I'm using (Cura). These are for PLA and my printer's got a 0.4mm nozzle

Quality
Layer height (mm): 0.1
Shell thickness: 0.8
Enable retraction: y

Fill
Bottom/top thickness: (mm): 1.2
Fill Density (%): 20

Speed and Temperature
Print speed (mm/s): 50
Printing temperature (C): 200
Bed temperature: 50

I have Cura set to do the outer layers before the infill. With the layer thickness being 0.8 mm, the printer takes 2 passes around. I have the outermost pass at a slower speed than the inner pass and the infill speed. I stumbled upon this by accident but it has GREATLY improved the fidelity of my prints.

Certain pieces will probably need support material. Thankfully it's pretty much all in places that are hidden on the finished prop. The parts I use support on are:

- the booster
- the clamp spacer (although I've had some success printing this without support material. It's only to support the female twist lock cavity.)
- the grenade section (similar to the clamp spacer, support may not be necessary. It all depends on how well your printer can span the gap at the top of the female twist lock cavity)
- windvane bottom. You'll also have to flip this piece upside down in your slicer software before printing for maximum fidelity.
- emitter. Like the windvane, you'll want to flip this upside down in the slicer software.

*I selected "touching buildplate" for the support type. Anything else is unnecessary.

I'm also filming each step of the build and plan to upload the vids to my youtube channel.
 
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