Han Solo HERO DL-44 Build Kit - Seeking Guidance

Hello, esteemed RPF members!

I am a new member, not only to the forums, but to the prop building scene in general. I, like any other fan, have always wanted a DL-44 of my own to have, to hold, and to love. A few months ago, I watched the infamous Tested "One Day Build" video where they assemble the kit and I knew I wanted to do the same (or, as close as I can with my limited resources and connections). I recently purchased both a DL-44 ANH kit and a Denix Replica base gun for it from the lovely Dark Energy Creations website/supplier. The kit itself arrived just yesterday and the pieces look great (I was told by the seller that the Denix is shipping some time later this week). However, before I start assembling my long-sought blaster, I have a few questions I want to ask so that I get the most out of my purchase. As I am incredibly novice at this, I appreciate any and all help I can get with this! So, thank you in advance!

1) Now, let's begin. The first thing that is listed on the instructions is to file/sand all parts. I already started mildly yesterday, but there are some protruding pieces of metal too big to pick off or file, and too small to use some sort of pliers on. Do I just keep sanding until it slowly goes away, or is there a faster, more efficient method?




2) Next is a rather puzzling question, for me at least. Whenever I look at old pictures of the prop, I'm pressed to see in great detail where the track and antenna(e) go. I know they belong on top of the barrel next to the flash hider. I've seen it on other peoples' builds, but it varies. On one build, there was only one antenna and it looked as if it were soldered to the track with no stick whatsoever. Another build I saw had both antennae glued to the top of the track with the end sticks, well, sticking out. Which is the correct orientation? What is truly infuriating is that in the video with Adam Savage, he doesn't add this specific piece! He leaves it there in the corner at the end of the video, not addressing it, just to taunt me! Also, the track on all builds I've seen are much shorter and smaller than the one I received in the kit, plus it is slanted halfway through going down (i thought maybe it went under the flash hider, but its too tall to squeeze under, even on the bottom of the barrel). How/what is the best way to shape mine into this?
Links for comparison: [HTMLhttp://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz152/artland05/Star%20Wars-A%20New%20Hope-%20Han%20Solo%20Blaster%20Gun%20Replica/3-TheStarWars-LaserGun-TOPcolor-POST-enhanced_zpsca411fdb.jpg][/HTML]


Also, I just found this in the guy's photo album. What does it mean?
Link:
3) On a few pieces of the kit (lenses for the scope, track and antenna, mount studs, grill, and the barrel base frame), the instructions say to glue them into place. What sort of glue is typically used for prop building? I can't imagine it's just generic Elmer's or the super glue you find at the counter of dollar stores. And, do I use primer before I paint the parts with flat matte black? Plus, should I paint the scope dial bronze, and if so, how do I go about that? I'm not too eager to weather the parts, as I'm anxious I'll do it wrong, and I kind of like the "factory-setting" aesthetic of the gun. If i change my mind, I'll definitely let you all know, though!

4) Finally, I'm not sure where all of the pieces to the mount go. I've put most of the parts where they belong which I've seen in pictures, but I still have some pieces that I'm not sure about. Do they go on something on the gun? I'm having it shipped later, so I won't know for sure for about a week at least. For starters, I'm correct in assuming that these go together, right?



So, where do these go? And this nut? Shouldn't there be two of these? They're all big enough to go together, but I thought that my gun was coming with the already pre-exisitng screws drilled in.



Are these little sticks supposed to be there? Or is that something the machine did that needs to be sanded off?



Here's a link to the gun. Do those screws cancel out the ones I got in my kit? Or are they for something else entirely?
Link:
Plus, does this make sense to anyone?
"drill 13/64 inch holes and tap for 1/4-20 thread, reinforce stud in magwell with 1/4-20 nut, glue studs in place"
I'm not sure what it means, could someone explain it in simpler terms?



Anyways, let me know if you can answer any of these questions,as they're bugging me and I don't want to/can't start without clearing them up first. Thanks again for your help!
Sincerely, SaltySandals

P.S. Here are the links to the forums and album that I was using for comparison in this post.
Links:

SaltySandals, I'm no expert, but I can at least address the t-track/piston greeblies. I believe that they were present on some of the ANH photo shoots but was missing by most of the in scene shoots. For this reason, many people leave them off. I think I've seen Scottjua (check out his YouTube videos) leave them optional for his commissioned builds. I don't remember where I've seen it (probably Scott for his live-fire build), but I've seen them attached by magnets so that they can be taken off at will. From your photos, looks like the t-track will have to be cut down.

Video of his personal DL-44 collection:
https://youtu.be/kS2jPUkySIw

As for the finishing, I would also consider using a dremel-like device and/or Jewlers files to clean up the rougher parts of the casting. Just go slow.

I also assume the threaded rods are included just for the kit and if you ordered the accurized Denix from DEC, there should be another set preinstalled (or was he just tapping the holes?). You can always ask dmachinist directly. He's a nice guy, just really busy.

Hope this helps,
Chris

Also consider reading through these threads:

DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit Builds
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=228217

ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=118186

PS- Good to see these kits in the wild from the recent run!

Welcome to the RPF. This was the exact same build that brought me here. You have a bunch of questions which will be difficult to answer on my phone, so I'll do it tonight from my computer. Just a quick word of advice (which I read on here) don't sand the grill too much, in the movies it is plastic, so you want the seam lines there.

ScottJua's posts and videos will make this build alot easier for you

I have a DEC Denix and ANH kit so I can post some pics for you.

I will answer these the best I can, while I'm sure others who know more will fill in the gaps

1) I used a small file set for them parts (the pour sprues), got it close then sanded. Being it is pewter you have to be careful

2) The picture you linked to with the two pistons (antenna's) is ScottJua's. Like I said earlier, I would consider him an expert on DL-44's so I would say that is the correct way. The second picture that compares post production only showing one piston was taken after the movie was filmed. Im guessing one fell off while shooting. Your preference but most people use both.

3) alot fo people use E6000, it holds well but you can always remove it later. I would stay away from epoxy unless you know 100% you wont be taking it apart. I've seen people use that metallic brass paint for the scope knob, then a light coat of black with wear around the edges.

3) Since you purchased a Denix from DEC you wont use the all-thread or nut. The kit only comes with one nut because there is only enough room on the front one to hold the all thread with a nut. The rear have the hammer/ trigger internals so it just wont fit.

Regarding the tap, you wont have to do that, DEC will take care of everything but the epoxy. Pretty much, once you get the two pieces of all thread fitted, you may want to put some epoxy in the holes (careful not to get on internals on the rear one) and on the nut and last couple threads. Once you screw it in, clean up any extra.

I should add you will have to clean up the left side of the Denix where DEC milled off the Denix logo. I used some emory cloth to even things out then sanded to 400 grit. you can use paint or aluminum black, whichever you prefer. This will all make more sense when you get the Denix in hand. Heres some pics to show what I mean about the side and the taps. This is exactly how mine came from DEC

These are my DL-44 builds I've recently just completed. The ANH Blaster is almost all DEC, except for the Flash Hider, that's a Todd's Costumes part. I might upgrade my Scope and Scope Mount to Todd's in the near future as well because I always hear from other members on here that Todd's is much more accurate than the DEC Scope and Mount. The ESB Luke Blaster is a Frankenstein Hybrid of parts. Evolution Props Flash Hider, DEC M19 Scope, Boba Debt Scope Mount and opposite side Greeblies, and lastly Scottjua Knurled Knob. Woo, that was quite a list there!?!? Some people might squirm when they hear that about this, but I'm really happy with how it came out, I totally love it way more than the ANH build. I really love em both though, since they were my first Blaster builds ever! They came out quite nice for a newbee like myself. Thanks to all who helped supply the parts for my Blasters!

ogrotesque1 is that DEC scope painted? It's so nice and matte. Is the Todd's Costumes FH anodized?

Thank you! Yes, the DEC Scope is just painted with Flat Black spray paint and the Todd's Flash Hider is Anodized. I like the weight of Todd's FH, but it's Black and to be accurate, you gotta have that gun metal look to the FH. So, I'm kinda torn right now as of what I'm going to do. Good luck with yours!

The earliest pre-production photos had the one piston sight greebly. This photo has convinced me there were two full-length piston greeblies but being live fire and the greeblies plastic and glued to the barrel they didn't last long, and by post production all that remained was the head of one piston and the bit of t-track. Like the mystery disk the piston greeblies will probably always be open to interpretation and (often vigorous) discussion...



I describe my build on this tread at #373. Upgraded to a leather Costumebase belt and just ordered a Todd's scope. Booya....:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=228217&page=15&highlight=dec+denix+builds

I love the paint on your scope, nice finish. Does anyone have any pics using Aluminum Black on the scope and mount? I have Aluminum Black, might have the get the Pewter Black as well. Just deciding which route to go with the colors.

DarkAcid said:

I love the paint on your scope, nice finish. Does anyone have any pics using Aluminum Black on the scope and mount? I have Aluminum Black, might have the get the Pewter Black as well. Just deciding which route to go with the colors.

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Check out any of scottjua's YouTube videos. He blacks all of his scopes.

cjchiu said:

Check out any of scottjua's YouTube videos. He blacks all of his scopes.

Click to expand...

Thank you!

cjchiu said:

Check out any of scottjua's YouTube videos. He blacks all of his scopes.

Click to expand...

The only parts that should be painted on the scopes are the brass parts. The original scopes ALL had painted brass hardware, and the scope bodies were ALL blued steel.

I've seen a rare few that were painted, but it's such an anomaly that it may have been painted anytime in the past 100 years...

Besides, if you're going for accuracy the original Han Soo prop had a typical blued scope body with painted brass hardware. If you have an aluminum scope you can still Blue it with a lot of patience. It CAN look almost exactly like steel...but it takes lots of time and finesse.

The sight greeblie probably only had one of the push rods on it for the duration of filming. I just choose to use two of them on the sight greeblies I make for people. IF you have a steel bull barrel I will attach it with magnets. If not, epoxy or 3M VHB tape.

This isn't the most recent one, but second most recent:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=256321


Here's the most recent one I did, and has a better more accurate paint scheme on the cross bar. I got tired of scratching them and getting them close and spent a stupid amount of hours making custom templates for the paint:

10 new photos

What's the best method to apply the blueing? I have the Aluminum Black on the way, but being a newbie - what's the best way to apply this?

slynger said:

What's the best method to apply the blueing? I have the Aluminum Black on the way, but being a newbie - what's the best way to apply this?

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Honestly just follow the instructions. And then repeat over and over

scottjua said:

Honestly just follow the instructions. And then repeat over and over

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That makes sense. I had to pack my stuff away for a few weeks and thought there might be a trick in getting it applied right. I'll save all my other questions until I actually have it ready. Thanks for the reply.

First off, I want to thank everyone for the feedback; it's been a tremendous help! Since the post, I have decided to go ahead and add both greeblies to the barrel. I've already shaped it into a smaller and slanted size so that it lines up with the bull barrel. I've also sanded down everything to a likeable state, and I think I'm ready to paint. I bought some Flat Black spray paint, as well as some Aged Copper for the scope knob. And, I bought some E6000 for the pieces once they're painted and ready to be glued. The Denix hasn't been shipped yet, so there's no real hurry to get things done, besides my own eagerness. Should I paint all my pieces with the flat black? I'm not too concerned about giving the flash hider a steel finish, I'm fine with it being black like the rest, unless I find a good way to achieve the look I want. Any advice as to painting the pieces, should I hold off on some and use a different paint on certain parts?

Actually, I just found this picture on reddit, and I think that if I could, I would want to have my flash hider painted the same. Does anyone have an idea as to how I would do this?
https://www.reddit.com/r/pics/comments/28ka6a/han_solos_dl44_heavy_blaster/

Scottjua details it in his thread and it's detailed in the DEC Builds thread, too. Just search for it.

Update: I'm buying Birchwood Casey Super Blue and barricade, as per scottjua's video on weathering/painting to look like steel.

For examples of finish I used Birchwood Casey Aluminum black on everything. I sanded and filed to open up the metal, held each part over the stove and dropped them in bags with a little aluminum black. I mushed and manipulated them inside the bags to get coverage...then rinsed them in water and buffed them with some steel wool. Repeat as needed. The scope and FH need a LOT of repeats. I did then 7 or 8 times a few days in a row!

When you like the finish you've got, since its chemical treatment you're bound to get a layer that comes right off with steel wool every once in a while. Don't panic, do it again and to be safe, put some sealant or finishing wax on it right away to preserve the patina. I use Johnsons wax, Briwax brown or Ebony and Liboman Tudor Oak